Well I now have all of the parts for this 6-71 blower install. Everything seems straight forward but I have one question. How in the hell do you install the blower snout to the blower? I mean by that what drives the blower or maybe turns the blower? There are two hubs one on the blower snout, and one on the gear inside the blower case. Both have a six bolt drive that lines up, but how do you get them attached? Are there studs in there? I don't have a clue and got no information with all of this stuff.
Some use grade 8 bolts and lock washers, some just grade 8 bolts with red Locktite depending on supplier. I always use Locktite regardless and torque to spec, can't remember number, might be 30-35 #s? Coupler is splined and will pull off shaft in back of snout. Preferred to have play in dowell holes on cover. That way with snout installed on cover then installed on blower it can float a bit and self center the shaft if there is some misalignment. Also a dial indicator might be needed if the coupler feels like a loose fit in the gear to get it concentric.
So are you saying that the hub on the snout itself comes off of the snout? I tried that to a small degree and it seemed to be very much on there, I assumed ( yea I know what happens when you assume) that is was maybe pressed onto the snout. I did find it puzzling that the hub on the blower itself in side the case are tapped, so no nuts would be needed.
Yes, the hub comes out of the snout. Take a couple screw drivers and get em in behind the hub flange and gently pry it out. Yours is stuck because the hub has been jambed a bit too far into the ends of the splines which become tapered a little at their ends. The hub is never that far into the snout as what you see it now. When the hub is bolted to the blower gear first and then the snout shaft is slipped into it, the splines float on each other with minute clearance.
Now I feel like a complete idiot, Thank God for the HAMB and the guys here that actually know what they are talking about. landseaandair and 270ci thank you both for that information I was able to get the hub apart with no problem at all after you guys explained how it worked. here's a couple of pictures. I will start getting the motor together tomorrow as I now have all of the pieces.
I was out in the shop, moving stuff around and trying to make a little sense out of the confusion. I just hate when I take on a task and not know how it all is supposed to work. This blower deal is something I really don't know much about. I only hope I am able to figure this out before I get crippled with the not knowing part. Also as I was moving stuff around I was somewhat surprised with just how damn heavy all of this stuff is. I mean that blower must weigh 65 or 75 lbs, anyone know for sure what they weigh? I spent a fortune taking weight off of this Hemi. I mean when you think about it a 392 weighs 720 lbs. That was a lot more weight than I wanted in this little Model A. So I started pulling stuff off and replacing it all with lighter aluminum parts. I finally got this big ole heavy motor down to a very respectable 535 lbs. That's approaching Small Block Chevy weight. It wasn't cheap by any means, the aluminum heads alone cost more than I want to think about, and I pulled over a 100 lbs off of just the front of the motor. All of that cast iron water manifold pump timing cover and all of that crap is damn heavy. Now here I have just negated all of those weight savings by spending another ton of money to add weight to the damn thing. Damn folks dreams just don't make sense sometimes...
Gaining weight but adding horsepower!!!!!! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Run it once and you'll forget all about it, this part of the dream will just fade away. I hear magnesium parts are lighter yet.
Gees and I think a E90 blower is heavy every time I handle it to figure where to put it on the 200 six in my Comt..
Well it has been a long winter. Seems like every time I got ready to get going on this blower motor something reared it's ugly head. Motor has just sat in the shop waiting for me to get off my butt and do something. I haven't really felt like doing anything, got my days and nights mixed up and going to bed at 8 o'clock in the morning and getting up after dark just didn't make me want to do anything. Then I got a PM here on the HAMB ( woodsandwater) from a guy building a Model A pick-up. We exchanged e-mails and since he was pretty local he came over one day and help get me back on track. "Thanks" Keith. Now I have been out in the shop everyday building this engine and getting ready to put it in my Model A. It's coming along good, but I found out this engines don't do well just setting in the cold shop. I spent four days just cleaning this engine from all of the crap that had settled on it. Now the bottom end is complete, and I am waiting on the pushrods from Smith Pushrods should be here by Tuesday I am hoping. Soon as they get here I will finish it and I will do a video of it running on the test stand. Here's a couple of pic's of my new progress so far.
This is going to look fantastic. I totally understand your desire for a blower. If you were looking for sensibility you would have nothing but a Honda or Toyota in your garage. Hot rods really make no sense whatsoever. I'm always thankful that I didn't get the boat or airplane bug to go along with this sickness. But we like hot rods, gotta have 'em, and everyone has their individual tastes. The one thing we all seem to agree on is that we want more horsepower than originally came with the dang car....it is just a matter of how much it takes to satisfy each person. You and I are just on the "too much" side. I'm glad you decided to go with a blower. You are going to have some real fun with this car!
last March I said in a post that I was getting close to having this Hemi ready. Well here it is April the next year and I am still just close, but closer that's for sure. Plans were to fire it off yesterday, but it turns out the blower belt was way to small, so that means another week of waiting on parts. In a way I am glad because it gives me some time to go over thing one more time. One of the things I do have concerns about are the bolts that hold all of the bottom pulleys to the Harmonic balancer. I ended up having to add a pulley to get the blower pulley and the drive pulley to align. I don't see a problem with the double pulley on the bottom even though I only need one. Does anyone else see a problem there? The alignment now is within an 1/8th of an inch between the blower pulley and the drive pulley, with the drive pulley being the longer one, or would that be wider one? So the bolts that hold all of that stuff on are grade 8 but they are 3 1/4" long, is that too long for these bolts? I have this set up to make only 5 lbs of boost but I have no idea how much strain will be on the bolts. \ Also I do have a little misalignment between the water pump pulley and the v belt pulley on the crank. I could solve all of the misalignment problems--both blower to drive pulleys and the water pump to v belt if I could get rid of some of that area on the pulley close to the balancer--see picture. trouble I cannot find a machinist anywhere to do that. The second pulley in the picture will not go over the crank register as the hole in it is 2" and I need 2 1/4" inches to do that. Seems like a simple problem until you try and find someone to machine this stuff and cannot find anyone. At any rate here are some pictures if anyone see's a problem please speak up
If it was mine, I'd want those pulleys to line up perfectly. Do what you have to to make this right. Surely someone with a lathe can help you out. Otherwise, your patience and belt life will suffer if you don't. How many bolts and what size - 5/16 or 3/8?
As a suggestion, you could look into getting a spacer closer to the right width . Blower vendors have them, and I have seen them on EBay. They come in various widths . The bolts you have should be ok at low boost levels. However ,pay close attention to belt adjustment. To tight when the engine is at operating temp, and something might or will break.
Johnsons rod shop in Gadsden may be able to whittle a 1/4" off that easy enough for you. Doesn't appear to be too far from you. http://www.johnsonshotrodshop.com
The balancer is a Fluid Damper, and the bolts are 38-24. I couldn't agree more about the belt alignment, if only I could fix it. I read your response about that spacer, that made me think that I just may have another one of those. Took a little looking but damn sure enough there was a smaller one in that big box of parts hidden under a package of bolts. It is exactly half the size of the one on the motor now at 1/4" vs that one which is 1/2". So that solves the blower pulley alignment. You know guys I have seen ( I think) spacers that go behind the water pump pulley. Am I imagining that? if anyone knows were a feller might get some of those I just may be able to solve both problems.
Thanks Mikey, You are sure right, all of them had them. Got some ordered from JEGS. Funny thing about JEGS I ordered a set of wheels from them and it took 28 days after they shipped them for them to get here and I had paid extra for 2nd day shipping. I called them and not really complained but voiced my opinion on that kind of service. The switched me around from one cat to another on the phone, finally got this lady who apologized about a dozen times. I told her it was cool but maybe next time they could try and do a little better. Three days later I got an apology letter from some guy who's letter head said he was a vice president of service, In that letter was a check for half the price of the wheels, yea that's right 50%. I bought my blower carbs from them after that. ordered them early in the morning had them in my hand at 5:00 PM the "NEXT DAY".
I would like to get to that point Montana1. Maybe next week sometime. Then I gotta figure someway to shoehorn that monster into my little Model A. Don't get me wrong it is going to go, period. By the way just how often do you change your Avatar? Seems like I saw a different one before...
Given that you're not making much boost and probably not spinning the motor too hard, the way you're setting up your belts should work out. There are a multitude of opinions on the following, so I'll give you mine and take that for what it cost you. LOL (nothing). 1) Harmonic Balancers Versus Crank Hubs - Dual Keyways: I don't run harmonic balancers on blower setups like this as the big 3" belt (and the blower rotors) act as a sort of harmonic balancer. This allows me to run a steel crank hub (like a RCD). Attached to the crank hub will be a timing ring - and if I'm going to use a magnetic crank trigger, then it will have 4 magnets installed in it. I also run dual 1/4" keyways on the crank snout (they need to be machined to match the hub). http://rcdengineering.com/product/crank-hub-short-392417-chrysler 2) Single V-Belt: I try to only run the number of v-belts necessary for my drive components - which should only be 1 in this case. One of the reasons for the above is my desire to get the blower drive pulley as close to the timing cover as I can. There are two reasons for this: 1) By having the pulley closer to the engine, I put a lot less strain on the crankshaft snout and front main bearing. The further out you put the pulley, the more stress/leverage it has on the front of the crank. 2) Running a crank hub and a single v-belt makes the total length of the engine package shorter - and that makes it easier to install the engine in an early hotrod and reduces the amount of set-back required. Even with this situation, you'll still find that the engine will be quite a bit further back than if you were not running a blower. If you're running a manual transmission, engine setback can become all the more important (think about clutch linkage, shifter position, etc..) In order to do the above, the blower drive snout must match the manifold, engine, pulley arrangement, etc.. In your case, it would take a snout that is shorter than you currently have. Street Setup - You Should be Fine: With all the above said, you're goal is to run mild boost and you're probably not racing . . . so you should be fine. Don't over-tighten your blower belt - to keep some strain off the front of the crank and the front main. Also, there is nothing wrong with running a damper (as you're doing) - it is a quality piece and it definitely won't hurt the situation and many believe it will continue to help it (even with the big blower belt acting like a damper). Firing it Up: Since you don't have it mounted in the car, how were you planning on firing it up? Hopefully not on that engine stand? Think about how much this thing weighs - and there is no front support on this engine. I have a big/heavy duty engine stand I use for these engines (1/4" wall tubing - 3/4" thick heavy mounting plate at the rear) -- just don't trust the 'Harbor Freight' type of quality with that amount of weight and my feet all around and underneath it! The last thing you need is to fire the engine and put all the more strain on that stand. Also, once you fire it up, check for leaks, re-torque the heads, etc - don't continue to run it without putting load on it and breaking in the rings. Lots of guys make the mistake of running their cool sounding engines for all to witness . . . and then they glaze over their cylinder walls and the rings never seat. Put at little time as possible on it while on a stand. Engine 'run in' stands should be used for as little time as possible -- that is why we have engine dynos and cars to put these things in. Good luck! D
At 5 lbs of boost you do not need a double key way- and crank hub. Turn up the boost and yes, consider that very much. If you run a 2 inch belt and pulleys, there will be less stress on the crank, pulleys etc. Running a blown engine, even low boost, timing and your tune is key, bad tune , bad things will happen quick. Just my opinion. Talk to 10 blower guys and you will most likely get 7 different answers . But its all good.
Hombre, I just found this thread, and it was fun talking to you last time. I did find a 354 hemi block, and bought a pretty cool motor. I plan on running a 8-71, so I am going to watch this and see where it goes. I think a lot of questions have been answered here for us none knowledgeable people. I know it will be fun. Tony
The Jalopy Journal
