I always admired the the skills scratchbuilders have. Over the years I would see such incredible builds made from raw materials and what have you. I've spent the last twenty five years developing my craft on the computer. You've been doing it in the physical world which blows me away. If I screw something up I hit undo! LOL Trust me you have a talent only a few have in this world. My hope is to help or inspire others to make the models manufactures will never make. This modified you have is just amazing. Keep up the great work.
Dave I couldn't agree with you more on the 39/40 year. In fact its a top five on my list as ones I would do ASAP. My question to you and others out there. How much can the modeler do with finishing it up? If I just make the body can the community finish it? Im not sure as my thinking is some can, but most can't. So it begs the question for those who can finish it what bodies stand the chance to get purchased with such a high degree of skill needed? Thoughts welcome.
Resin is no harder to work with than styrene, for me. Just the type of adhesive changes One of the other problems I've had with the 1/8 bodies in the pasts is their uneven thicknesses. One of them I got was so thin in places you could almost see thru it. But I've seen resin stuff in 1/24 that is SO good you can't tell it from an AMT body if it has a coat of primer on it. 1/8th bodies should be as nice inside and have the same, even thicknesses as their Lindberg and Monogram counterparts, eh? Gary
Mike, in the case of the '39/'40 the trick for the builder would be in the details such as headlamps and grill. If the '39 headlamp bezels were part of the fender then foil would work - Alclad for the grill(?). I suppose foil would work for '40 bezels as well? Those things were part of the reason behind suggesting the '39 deluxe and '40 standard as I think those would be the easiest to deal with when casting/building (rather than the '40 deluxe for example). If you were to tackle such a project you might consider doing all fenders and hood as separate items? Front fenders and grill could be one casting I would think.. Fitting a frame under it would be a simple task for most of the fellows on here that's for sure! Lotsa skill on this forum! I'll be interested to see what your next gem will be as the samples you've shown look top-notch. Dave p.s. Thanks for your responses to my question.
Just the plain old Cyano-whatever (they just call it CA) Insta-set super glue that they sell at the hobby shop. You can get it in various drying rates, thicknesses, with gap-filling qualities, etc. They also sell a spray bottle of Insta-set that sets up the glue fast, regardless of the speed CA that you are using. That comes in handy for awkward situations or if you are impatient! Lots of hobby shops sell it as a "house" brand but I think most of it comes from the same place. Most of my stuff has purple labeling. Lots of tips on the internet, too. Gary
Good Sunday Models Y'all ! I've must've tripped and bash my head. I'll let the photos do the talking for me. Revell '64 Chevrolet Fleetside That is all ... carry on
Looks good to me Kit Bash... I like em low my self...but then again I did hit my head a couple of days ago... Sent from my QTASUN1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
LOL... It's not "Traditional" in any sense of the word. Front and rear suspension got stepped. Engine bay had to be modified quite a bit too.
Do slot cars count ? Here's a drag race version of my 54 Stude wagon (Conestoga), siting on the hood of my...54 Stude wagon.
I've started another one for her. This one is a bit bigger scene but smaller "scale". I use that word very loosely as it's all by feel with very little measurement. For reference, the house is about 40mm or 1.5" on the long side. It's on a base that's 230mm or 9" in diameter. A couple of progress pics. Thanks for all the positive feedback, I wasn't sure how that last scene would be accepted but it has all been very encouraging.
Picked up a new amt 1/25 scale '57 Bel air slot car kit at Ollie's a couple of years back..... Not sure what body to use on the chassis... Got so many to choose from...
Justin do you have any pictures of your actual cuts for the chop? Did you have to lengthen the top? I see you layed the A pillar back a little but I cna't see if you had lengthen the top.
I didn't lengthen the top, only altered the a pillars. I also made some cuts on the b pillar to get it lined up.
Nice Job Justin! Three more questions for you. 1.How much did you cut out? 2.Was it the same at each pillar? 3. What is your filler material? Thanks, Sam Profit
I agree with you! Fenders and Hood separate. I think its doable. My thinking is make the essential part(body) and see what comes up as the extra item or part need once body is done. Image here is a WIP of a big scale cuda body. 1:8?
Finished the 40 Ford home made p/u,its built with all junk parts while waiting on glue and paint to dry on other projects. Phase II is a utility trailer made from a truck bed to hook to it.