Should have mentioned that some of the other dio pieces came from Design Detail in Washington state but they also went out of business.That's where I bought the globes on the pumps,sign stands,Texaco swivel sign post,the canopy over the pumps.
Thanks for taking the time to do this for me. I never dealt with Paul or his company, but it looks like they had an outstanding product line. I was going to ask about the accessories as I see quite a bit of nice pieces in there. Looks like you have been at this for quite a while. Dusting looks like it could be quite a chore! D
Could not find the lights from that company. Found some others though. One is 11mm dia on the shade and the other is 3/4. Would you check and see what the dia measures on yours? I am trying to keep this to scale as much as possible. Thanks, Dennis
Concerning lights for a shop/garage diorama, you might consider model railroading as a source also. Probably pricey though, but they do have convincing things of this nature.
PACERS Fuel Altered update. The agenda this week has been the blower injection. Found several ways to get this done but couldn't decide. Slept on it a few times, now this; Brass nozzles with adjusting nut. Fuel lines will be 0.6mm, here in copper wire, painted black later on. Here the real car's setup.... Other side, without other hardware; Magneto is also done, Block also painted. The real 1963 Cadillac blue can't be gotten here for less than $40 a spray can. So, this Duplicolor Pidgeon Blue is close. Here with the hat on, fits nicely using the brass tube ports. I like the view, especially like here on a real Hilborn hat; Next up is the throttle linkage. Mike..
Sorry... I don't know what's going on.... Having a hell of a time posting pictures after the switch....they either don't post or they post double? Or go small.
Try waiting till they get done downloading and then hit enter.... It happens to me every once in a while...
Hello...It's Sunday...... "Is there anybody out there" ? Ya...about the only thing to do with models I did this weekend is bought a tube of model glue. It must be the good stuff....it says Danger and has skull & cross bones on it...they did have the blue tube that says non-toxic...but hey it's a three day weekend...live it up.
^^ Another good one is on the way. ^^ By the way, I prefer Tamiya's liquid cement. Testors has melted my plastic and scarred my windshields. Obviously due to my ineptness but still, I'm done with it.
PACERS, a few new motor shots. Fuel delivery and some detailing up front. Fuel nozzle block done, will be painted black later on; Front gear cover gets sleeves for the bolts. I'd like to mention, the 3D printed material is a ton of fun to drill out holes on....these are 0.65 mm, the sleeves are 0.60 mm, so they just slide into the hole. Styrene smears and it's about impossible to get a clean hole drilled using a handpiece....by hand, no way. The 3D stuff just makes a fine powder and the holes are exact. Here the scratch built aluminum and brass pulleys, the blower drive pulley remains as is, just added the bolt holes and sleeves, The fuel pump is almost finished. I was sweating the starter bracket for the blower as this would also have to be handmade, never done one of them before. Good news though, Scott Snizek tells me the original car was always push started to build up oil pressure first....the starter bracket was only added for the cackle car events. Soooo, since giving lots of thought about this part, I'll try it anyways. May not even work, so I'm still good without it. Here a photo, by Scott Snizek of the bracket... More later.... Mike..
quick...Its odd that you mentioned the melting of the plastic ...because that's why I am using it . I started doing some work on the 57 Chevrolet that I started way back...I sectioned the body and on the backside of the seams I laid down some plastic pieces for reinforcement and I used the Testers glue because it made the pieces softer and I could push it in and form it, and it didn't effect the outside . The picture of the outside is of the body with no putty ,filler, after gluing the panels back together I took pieces of plastic from the parts tree's and melting them into the seams then file and sanded it , at final body work I will use a little spot putty to finish it off. So sometimes melting of plastic can be good....and I also have screwed up windows and body parts with glue...bad.
Nice work, Terry. I'm sure that the Testors works good when using it like you are. Unfortunately, I had two cases of delayed reaction on two consecutive builds that really brought me down. Both cars painted and detailed, only to have the plastic suck in after both were fully assembled. To make it that much worse, both had beautiful paint jobs by a full time painter and his full size equipment. Since I'm no longer building to show, I can be a bit more casual about things but I still hate that often there are no true attachment points so extra care is needed with "glass", trim and fixing the body to the rest of the model. This is why I long for Round 2 to delve back into the past with quick easy builds. I don't want modelers cheated out of their mega detailed kits, I just want some anguish free builds. Looking forward to the completed '57.
Yes it is, I had it and the 1/12 Corvette given to me years ago. The 57 was missing the engine and tires & wheels, so one day I just started cutting on the body....then it got put away....while stored away it got smashed, the body was split in front and into the roof, put back away then went to work on the Corvette... It got kind of the Grand Sport type build started on it, opened up fenders ,wide racing slicks, along with channeled and dechromed body,custom hood scoop...then it was put away. Found on bay 2 57 1/12 kits ,one had damaged body , other had misc, parts missing. But one had the complete engine , the other had tires & wheels. So the sectioned one is back on the bench.