We had our spring break last week, and the 2 eldest kids have been asking to build a model for a while now. I bought them matching 57 Chevy snap kits, and let them pick a paint color out of my stash and I painted the body but they had to do everything else. We had a lot of fun!
What are the advantages, if any, to decanting paint from spray cans and spraying it through an air brush? Thanks. John
I can’t think of any advantages except the paint is already mixed to spray. I don’t have an airbrush, I buy a few of these off of Amazon every now and again to spray Alclad or colors I can’t find in a spray bomb Preval 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW809Z...abc_9SEGWGVW8W11RVH76VR9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
You have to be fast ,as soon as it leaves the can its trying to dry I tried spraying some clear directly into the jar screwed it on and tried spraying it...,it just came out dry and wouldn't flow just dried all bumpy. Sent from my SM-T307U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I keep running into stuff that didn't get unpacked when we moved. Does anybody have all 6 of this AMT series ? This one's missing taillights & bumper, no damage, though.
I only have four and they're all Corvettes. I've wanted to get others but on ebay they're generally in the area of $25.00. That's goofy to me. I like them, though.
@john worden, I've decanted acrylic paints. First off, using an airbrush, the paint will come out a lot thinner yet still covering very well. You'll find the whole paintjob appears to be thinner, making body details like panel lines and door hinges and won't clog these up. Also, the paint with an airbrush is easier to control, mainly because the paint is thinner and less is used to cover. Run a line across the side of a model with a rattle can, the whole surface is covered. The same with an airbrush, and you'll need at least five swipes to get the side of the car covered. Mike..
Guys, I don't know if the floor wax video described another use for the stuff. BUT, here a tip! Clear headlight lenses attached with Pledge or similar, works great! PLUS, there is zero danger of getting glue on the clear glass then having the lens fog up....that's butt ugly on a model. Other words, use the stuff for cementing clear lenses. Mike.
UPDATE: The brass FED is getting some body work now. First off the cowl, the most difficult part. I was hoping to not need any body putty, but a couple of pinholes in the solder, so these will need filling. The side panels are meantime done. Today I'll practice some painting on some brass sheet. Paint will be House of Kolors Candy Apple Red....I want this paint to pop and gleam! Also finished is a chute pack, an oil filter and oil pump at the rear of the block. Not much more to do and I'm excited! Mike..
@quick85....Mercy, that is some serious paint skills there! Best I can do with candy red is this, from 2014. I will add about 5 more clear coats though, maybe 2 or 3 of the candy too. I'm nuts about candy red! Mike..
Is this ^^^^^^^^^ House of Color Kandy paint? If so what products did you use? It doesn't look like excessive thickness.
Yes, H of K, Candy Red. Gold base though. Altogether, gold base, red candy and then the clear coat, maybe a dozen or so coats altogether. No, the paint is not thick at all. With the dragster body, being brass, I expect a nice gold tone for the base. I do want to use more coats of red candy though, and more coats of clear. Also a drop or two of red candy into the clear makes for a nice look too. Mike..
Thank you Mike for your information. It is amazing that 12 or so coats can be so thin. Modern paints in expert hands equals expert results. Very nice. I have painted vintage cars commercially for 43+ years and it's taking some time to familiarize myself with new products results and limitations as they apply to models. I have snooped around the HOK site and am comparing the KK11 and KBC systems. It is a bit confusing though. If I may ask could you list the product part number for the gold base, kandy color and clear that you mentioned earlier? It would be a time saver if you did. BTW I visited Jon Kosmoski's Original House of Color shop in Minneapolis Minnesota in the late 60s. He had several custom jobs underway. Thanks again for any help. John
@john worden, I agree, the HofK paint program nowadays is utterly confusing. I visited their site and am dizzy trying to figure out what is what. I dug out the old paints I have to see what the deal is. All I have are base coats, the BC series, like BC 25, base black. Then other small cans with only a German based shops' own listing number. Only a smudge on the tin cap shows the color inside. I have candy red, tangerine and brandywine. Same with the reducer. There is a House of Kolor original label, just no numbers in which to relate. The fellow I bought the paints from was German, owned a custom paint shop and sold airbrush-sized small amounts. He was also very helpful with which products I needed. So, I just bought what he recommended. Again, the only thing for sure are the base coats, being BC#s. If your looking to paint models, then I could highly recommend this line of airbrush paints; https://usa.specialistpaints.com/collections/inspire-airbrush Lesser expensive plus the smaller amounts for airbrushing available. The paints are compatible with HofK. I use a base coat, like a gold, then the candy paint, then the reducer with the clear top coat. 3 paints. Their reducer (thinner) is also compatible with HofK. Also recommend the Candy Concentrates, just a few drops to intensify the regular paints, also can be added to the clear for a more intense outcome. Here an idea of the intensity of these candy paints. This green car was painted with HofK BC 12 (Zenith Gold), then covered with Inspire Candy Blue, and cleared with a few drops of dark green HofK candy intensifier. Here the plastic cup for color testing....candy blue on a gold base = GREEN! The cup, and the car; I was thrilled! Not much, I can't help you any further with HofK. For a model car though, the Inspire collection would be my choice. Mike..
A company in Arlington TX called “Black Gold” used to put HOK paint into spray cans. I painted this 1/8 Big Deuce 16 years ago using their product. Not sure if they still do that, haven’t checked in a while. The color is Candy Pagan Gold over a white base. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
While we are on the subject of painting, what do I use when priming and painting a old warped promo body? I usually use Krylon primer on regular kit style plastic but would like to know if it is OK to use on the old promo bodies. I never messed with the warped up promos much before but I have a few I would like to restore and repaint. The other question is what kind of glue and filler do I use on this type of plastic? Thanks for any help anyone can offer, Mike
Since to subject of primer came up, What is the best practice for drying time of primer on modern plastic kits? 24 hours, 48 hours/ Thanks.
this is what I have been using for primers, I get it at walmart ...I think ace hardware has it also. it goes on nice ,covers good ,works good on the plastic, only thing I have run into is making sure that its shaken very good, the filler primer shake the hell out of it. I also warm my cans a bit before spraying ,my house is drafty. I often use dupli-color automotive base coat clear coat touch up spray cans for my finish coats and have not had any problems spraying over these primers. Sent from my SM-T307U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Plasti-Cote primer was the best, now I'm having problems finding it.... The next best primer would be doupli-color (sp)...
long time lurker, first post, 57 revell ford gasser kit done as a barn find. Used pastels and real rust, enjoy!!
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