Register now to get rid of these ads!

SUHRsc Track Roadster Update 3

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SUHRsc, Jan 29, 2008.

  1. HotRodChassis
    Joined: Jan 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    HotRodChassis
    Alliance Vendor

    Zach, what type of welder to you have. Does it have a knob for amperage "percent" or is it a new design where the setting IS the amperage reading you're welding at? I may have some advice (if I can be so bold) to help you not have to grind those welds at all next time.
     
  2. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    kevin
    its a miller econotig, its a percentage with a chart to guess where you at

    it seems to be alright, if i run the amps higher use bigger filler and go faster, makes a wider shallower weld that i can take off pretty quick....
    but any advice will be great!....i know thats my least favorite part of the job

    thanks alot
    zach
     
  3. HotRodChassis
    Joined: Jan 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    HotRodChassis
    Alliance Vendor

    Ok, what size tungsten are you using and what size filler rod?

    Also, do you have a buddy/girl friend/etc that could give you a hand while you're welding?

    What percentage are you welding that stuff at now on your chart?
     
  4. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    3/32 on the tungsten and the filler
    harder filler, i forget the number (4043?) with 3003 h-14 aluminum .062, i prefer the 1100 filler but couldnt find any good stuff when i was doing this

    im not sure what amperage im running at...it has AC high and low....i run it pretty low on the "high" setting
    maybe 30-35 amps??? but i could be wrong

    i could get someone to help if the need be
     
  5. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I'm beyond impressed! I mean really!
    I would most definetly love to learn how to do this kind of metalwork, have this kind of creativity in my skull find its way into a car.
     
  6. HotRodChassis
    Joined: Jan 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    HotRodChassis
    Alliance Vendor

    The tungsten size is fine. How long do you grind the taper? Normally it's only 2-2.5 times the diameter in length. But for that thin or thinner aluminum, you may want to go as much as 3-4 times the diameter for the taper length. Do you ball the end on a piece of copper before you start welding? I keep a piece of 14ga. copper sheet just for doing this.

    As for filler, the 4043 is fine. You want some alloying properties in the joint to help strengthen it. But what diameter are you using? 3/32? 1/8? 1/16? You can get it as small as 0.035". My supplier doesn't carry that in stock, but can get it in a couple of days. 0.035", 0.045", 1/16", all are available.

    You're amperage sounds a bit low, but percentage machines are hard to read. I'd recommend, as I'm sure you already have done, start really low and keep turning it up in small increments until you can weld at a speed that's comfortable for you, as well as what the material will handle. And take a lot of breaks, as I'm sure you already do. Also, as I'm sure you're aware already or you panels would be warped to hell, start with the panels touching at one end, and with a gap at the other if you're going to weld continuously. If not, LOTS of tacks. :)

    As for the helper, you'll also need another bottle of Argon and another regulator. You'll also have to make a gas diffuser. It's a little box looking thing with a stainless steel screen in it. You can buy them, but I can't find one to link to on the net. We usually made them in the service from copper sheet and a diffuser stone from McMaster Carr. It's like an open top rectangular box with a coupling for the hose from the Argon regulator. The stone goes on the inside and is used to diffuse the gas within the box. Your helper will wear gloves and a helmet also, and follow you welding, but on the opposite side. The "backup gas" will shield the "underside" of your weld, and cause the molten aluminum puddle to react just like it does on the welding side. It'll wet out, and "dime roll" just like the side you are on. The joint is stronger, will look just like the side you're welding on, have less oxygen absorption, and be less work to finish.
     
  7. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    3/32 filler...i guess too big....i was using alot smaller...maybe 1/16th? but found i could go at a higher amperage and a higher speed with the bigger filler, kinda burning a hole as i go i havent been really picky about the welding, just kinda go with what i had and use it

    i had to do a tack about every 3 inches on this nose because of the weld wrapping down around each side....does the tapered part idea cause any brittlement of the end that was closed as it "pulls" the other together?

    I'll defonitely give your way a try and see if i can manage it
    thanks alot!

    i welded both sides to get that look and im sure not as strong
    thanks!!!
    Zach
     
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,980

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'll say one thing your design work and the actual hand work is some of the most impressive I have seen in a long time. That is a car that has soul.

    Like the others I'd like to know more about the windshield frames.
     
  9. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    windsheild frame is temporary
    it will get a sellers cast hallock copy

    i just made this one out of 1/8 aluminum but its not the "correct" look so im going to fork out the money for one thats more "right"

    thanks
    Zach
     
  10. HotRodChassis
    Joined: Jan 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    HotRodChassis
    Alliance Vendor

    It's like the rabbit and the hare. Aluminum has what's called (and I'm sure you've experienced already) hot-shortness. Meaning it goes to pure liquid in a "short" heat range from solid. Lots of people that start to lean welding Aluminum thing that the hot-shortness means you've got weld as fast as you can. Not so, you can use all the principles of welding steel with Aluminum, it just takes getting used to. But if you get your heat more concentrated, and use a back up gas helper, you'll find you only have to weld one side, and can keep the weld zone small yet still have plenty of strength in the parent metal (your panels). The filler rods' alloying properties and the 3003s' properties won't cause embrittlement, quite the opposite. Hence the alloy in the 4043. The weld is always supposed to be stronger than the parent metal. I think you're better off with the tacks personally. The gap method works great with gas welding, but I've not had much luck with Tig. I'm sure there are a thousand people WAY better at it than me. I'm still learning a lot. When I build fuel cells or radiators (but the cells especially) I use the every six inches, then divide, then divide, then divide, (wash, rinse, repeat) method until I'm down to every half inch. It's like you are sneaking up on the piece with structural integrity so it doesn't warp when you get to the real welding comes in. I use a higher heat when I'm tacking, so I can "get in and out" quick.

    Hope nobody thinks I'm trying to tell you how to do anything. Just recommendations. Take it as you like.
     
  11. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks kevin!
    i appreciate the input ALOT

    I'll surely give it a try and it sounds like it will work out alot better then what im doing now

    thanks!
    Zach
     
  12. retro54
    Joined: Apr 1, 2004
    Posts: 735

    retro54
    Member
    from PA

    kevin, you do realize that Zach may now cut apart his nose at the weld seams and do it all over again to achieve a better weld... hahaha.. maybe not, but I've seen this guy do similar things when a better method is found or is suggested... nothing is sacred in the name of improving the end-product...
     
  13. FritzTownFord
    Joined: Apr 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,020

    FritzTownFord
    Member

    This is why I'm on here! Thanks guys for posting all that tech stuff here instead a PM. We all learn more.
     
  14. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

  15. Zach, do you have any up close pics of the frame you have on the car now? I would be interested in seeing the one you made!
     
  16. retro54
    Joined: Apr 1, 2004
    Posts: 735

    retro54
    Member
    from PA

    Chris, check Zach's first post, or maybe the second on this car... shows the frame and plan for the frame, details, etc.
     
  17. Thanks Retro54, my mistake, I meant the windshield frame! Thanks for the PM Zach!
     
  18. QQMOON
    Joined: Oct 7, 2002
    Posts: 1,309

    QQMOON
    Member

    Zach very cool good on ya !

    QQ
     
  19. Hey Zach....here's that pic I was talking bout. Love this cover. Slightly reminded me of the semi sharp lines of the lower hood sides. I like that you did'nt give it a lot of shape as we have seen that before...yours looks old, but with your own fresh ideas. I dig!
     

    Attached Files:

  20. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks!
    thats pretty cool
    i dont know if i've seen it before
    what year is it?
     
  21. Not sure... I have files of crap I save for inspiration. I love furniture design, you name it. I still do a lot of commercial design when I can...breaks up the car thing as I get bored to easy.

    Lets chat offline, got something for you...
     
  22. Most impressed... I drooled over your first sportcoupe... now this?... someone get this man his own t.v. show for gawds sake.

    Awesome Cars!!!
     
  23. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

    thanks! :eek:
     
  24. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    VERY inspirational! Lookin' good!
     
  25. el chuco
    Joined: Feb 20, 2006
    Posts: 124

    el chuco
    Member

    Wow, Zach! This is one of those posts that happens every so often (like Littleman's Death's Doorstep) that is so friggin' inspiring. Aside from the incredible track nose I love what you've done with the tube frame rails covered with sheet and how they follow the lines of the lower cowl--bitchin'! Do you have any pics of your frame sans the body? Ruler of rulers!
     
  26. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

  27. WelderSeries
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 768

    WelderSeries
    Alliance Vendor

    What's happening, Zach? Any updates?
     
  28. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,093

    SUHRsc
    Member

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.