The patient here is a 37 Chevy with a M-II front end. The brake lines need to be replaced because there is a least on kink that I know of, the routings are ... interesting ... and they were clearly done without a tubing bender. Oh, and there is at least one compression coupling in each one, even the 2' or so from the MC to the distribution block. You can see the steel current lines in the picture. I haven't removed them yet. I'm using copper ground wire to mock up the replacements. Running forward from the distribution block, to the passenger front wheel, I'm trying to keep this line tucked up in to the side of the frame for as long as possible. At the point where you can see the copper loop around the edge of the frame, I have to do that to clear the steering shaft. I'm trying to decide if it's worth wrapping the line under the frame, as shown, before turning right to run across the cross member. Or should I smooth out that section, come down off the frame and just make a wide radius bend to meet the cross member. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The shortest distance between 2 x points is a straight line. A large radius would be OK however I would secure it every 12" so there is no chance of fatigue from the line flopping around unsecured or being caught on anything when driving. Tuck it up under lower edge of rail? I also noticed a welded steering U-joint. You wouldn't get that through technical inspection down here unless it was an OEM joint.
Either a straight line or a radius will leave the line out away from the frame and crossmember. That's what I'm trying to prevent. It's a pretty well protected area, not subject to easy damage from road debris or anything like that. So maybe that's ok. Where I wrapped it around and down, I'm trying to keep it up against the frame and crossmember. That seems better, but the routing looks kinda wonky. I can't go further forward without hitting the steering shaft, though. Yeah, there will be clips used to support and fasten the line when it's in place. This is just mock up while I figure out where I want the lines to run. I don't know if that weld is OEM or was done when the frame was modified. Somebody familiar with the M-II front end might know whether that's factory or not, but I don't. It's been on the road 20 years and 65K miles, so if it seems to be holding up well. Hard to change out if it ever fails, though. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's an interesting idea. I don't know. Maybe. The block is already behind the plane of the firewall, so I wouldn't have to move it. Not sure if I can snake a line up and over the trans, but it's worth a look. Thanks! Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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