Sort of. The steering box mount is different, as is the size of the tie rod ends, and the idler, so you'll have to do some messing around for the steering. Do a search, but spell it "brake" not "break"
In a word -yes - use 3/4 spacers( between steering box and frame) to make the steering box line up. Dont have to change shaft angles/ rag joint and such that way. Are you going to change the rear bolt pattern also ??
here you go. this should help. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=364621 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=357610
Why work so hard to swap the whole deal.. 71 72 spindles/discs are near a bolt on and do have the correct smaller size tie rod tapers. 73 up spindles/discs just need a mid 60s C-20 centerlink and idler to match up the larger tie rod tapers. The old metal control arm bushings hold a perfect alignment forever, if you know how to grease them
X2 on Glendale's post. 67-72chevytrucks website has a ton of stuff on that swap. try stovebolt.com as well.
Space a 76 power steer box away from the frame? Did it, regret it. Pocket the frame like a 76, build in reinforcement to keep the steering box torque from ripping out the frame like they do on stock frames. Pocket because the idler arm will not stay parallel with the frame during motion. If you use a matching 76 style column and steering shaft with the box, you will have to make for some way to offset the steering wheel because if you don't, tight right turns, can't buy a left turn, all if you don't pocket. Also, gusseting of the front crossmember will be required to keep steering box torque from tearing the rivets out of the frame there too. Been there, done that. 300,000 miles of experience with my modifications to my 65 Chevy 10 stepside, the Black Dog. He's resting quietly here for now, and will raise his ugly head again one day.
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