Technical Studs Keep Shearing Off!

And after looking very closely, the rims don't seem to be resting on the rivets either. But I'm going to grind them down just a hair to make sure.

 

Hi Bob

Maybe replacing that hub & drum, then see what happens

Plus time your wheel & hub so the wheel goes on in the same place, magic marker lines etc that won't wash off

 

Damn, that's scary

 

VERRY VERRY SCARY !!!!

Lynn W

 

Hey Bob see if you can get grade 8 black studs, have had problems with these zinc plated ones breaking before, they can have hydrogen embrittlement

 

^^^ what c69a said, and don't over tighten them.

 

I know! And this last time I didn't even hear them pop off like I usually do! Normally I hear them fly off and I quickly get over to the side of the road. I'm so blessed the wheel didn't come flying off.

 

C69A-I was wondering the same thing.

 

Anyone want to take a guess at what I should torque them to?? I was thinking 90 lbs.
It's the 1950 Chevy in my profile picture.

 

1/2 studs should be 85 foot lbs, lube the stud threads but don't lube between the nut and wheel on the taper.

 

They are currently 7/16.

 

Looks like the wheel should seat against the drum OK. Although it also looks like at some time, a wheel has been resting on the rivet heads. But that probably was not this wheel.

Having the nuts loose will cause the studs to break...I would make sure the wheel is seating properly against the drum, and if so, just make sure to get the nuts as tight as they are supposed to be. Check them after driving a little ways (every 10-25 miles), until you are sure that they're staying tight.

I'm guessing that it's a Chevy with 7/16" studs, 75 ft lbs ought to be tight enough.

The studs need to be long enough that there is at least 1/2" of thread engagement. But as mentioned, it's nice if the stud sticks out past the end of the nut a ways, it makes some guys feel better about it, even if it doesn't add any strength.

 

Maybe it's me, but I would think that those studs would be breaking off a lot closer to the drum if those nuts were screwed in all the way and the wheel was seated properly on the drum.

 

According to the information sheet that comes with ARE wheels the torque requirement for 7/16" studs is 55-65 ft.lbs.. They should be torqued in a crisscross star pattern.

 

Dang it pat59 I never noticed that!

 

@squirrel take a look at this pic, the logs look to be snapping at the base of the threads. There is still a lot of stud showing. I am guessing that this point but my guess is that there is too much shank sticking through and the lug nut is at the end of the threads. this is not a good situation at all there needs to be some threads left when the wheels is tightened down. Am I making sense maybe you can splain [SIC] it more better



I also could be wrong and the wheel had just wallered the threads off the stud.

 

I'm with beaner, wheel nut bottomed out, wheel loose enough to break studs, maybe no obvious movement, but enough.

 

I really think you need to take a very close look at the center hole in your wheels and the diameter of that hub. That wheel can't be seated.

 

The nuts didn't bottom out on the studs, from what I can see. I think Rich is on to something...looks like the center of the wheel is not seating on the flat part of the drum/hub, it is raised up there.

 

I am not buying that the nuts are bottomed out. If they were then there would not be any threads showing. If nuts were bottomed out against the bottom of the lug then when it broke all the threads would be in the nut and gone. I think it is time for a new drum and try it from there since it only happens on that drum.

 

Looking at the picture Beaner reposted, the drum center looks too thin to match the hub center. I'm not familiar with 50s Chevies, is it supposed to look like that?

 

Not that it count for much, but if the wheel was not tight, wouldn't the holes be al clapped out?!
If it was the wrong wheel for the car, the hub would be clapped out as whelk as the rim.

I know this may sound stupid, but where is the studs from? Are they cheap studs?
Did the nuts came from car or with the wheels?

Could there be some HD bolts available for your car? Is there a chance that you blew two 35+year old studs, replaced them. Blew three 35+year old studs and when you replace them now, they all five last 35 years at least

 

Beaner: Are you thinking he is using acorn threads? Cause he is not. He went back to open nuts. But they are a long way from being all the way down. I don't know if it's his center cap or what. I would look at this side and the other side. Maybe with a caliper in hand.

 

maybe the center bullet is stopping at the hub flange and the wheel is resting the the bullet holding the wheel out?

 

I think Bud had this a while back. Has the OP done anything about looking at this? Without the center cap.

 

The OP?

 

Original Poster (e.g. You).

 

Looks to me like the wheel register is larger than the brake register on the hub, as others have said the hole in the center has to fit snug to that lip in the hub, that is what keeps the wheel located and the nuts keep it tight. If there is a gap between the wheel and brake register then you'll have problems. In the pictures of the hub and wheel the brake register of the hub is quite a distance from the stud and the wheel shows its' opening right up to the stud - it might just be camera angles etc but it looks like there would be a gap all the way around the register, slip the wheel on without the cap and you could tell.
I thought the rivets interfere but there looks like a pocket is in the wheel for the rivet heads.

 

The weakest part of that stud is the first thread, as it is the smallest dia at it inside of the thread and that is where it flex's the most

That is why they are not breaking off closer to the hub, cause no threads there just the bare shank area

Does the steering wheel shake at all ? cause if the nuts were tight and the wheel was loose it sure would

Still think you could replace the hub & drum. plus give the Wheel Company a call and see what they have to say ?

 

In the second picture you posted with the open lug nuts it appears to me you are getting incorrect studs or the wheel is not completely seated, here should be, as stated earlier, at least 1/2" of stud beyond the lug nut. Those studs are correct dimension as far as the 7/16" but the length is not.