So I know this guy that has a friend with a coworker that needs some cool valvecovers for his small block err.. Studebaker. Yeah his Studebaker. Problem is, I, umm, this guy hates oil leaks. So anyways, he heard somewhere about these cool valve covers on early Stude V8s. It seems that the 232 to 259 c.i. motors from 1953 to ??? used a nice, no name, center bolt valve cover. Follow along as this guy updates the sealing to keep those nasty oil spots off my, err... his driveway. First, you have to see how close the holes are to some other nameless covers to believe it. It seems they could go on that motor with only a set of bolts and a liberal application of silicone. The Studebaker covers use rubber grommets in large holes, the others use a close fit hole and an aluminum washer. The sealing surfaces really show what 30+ years of development can do. The shaded area shows how much the gaskets overlap. Not too confidence inspiring... I started with removal of the unnecessary parts. I saved the tops and baffles for a PCV trick to come later. Then I scribed a line down the center of the flange using a piece of 1/8" masonite as a guide. I cut the long sides with a cut off wheel and the short sides and corners with snips. This stuff is pretty light weight. Note that the corners on the stude covers have two different radius. This is consistent with the chevy. About 12-14 hours in the electrolysis tank made short work of the rust inside and out.... No pics of the welding, but here's the drill. First, drill 8 3/16 fender washers to 1/4" to fit the bolts closely. Cut these down to small sqaures to tack inside the stude covers with the cylinder head or original cover used as a jig for the four stud bolts. Weld the holes closed from the top, then drill them back out from the inside using the washers as a guide. The center of the new hole will be on the inboard edge of the old hole, so this was an easy way to make that happen. Now use a bunch of nuts and washers to mount threaded rod in the framework of the chevy insert to help you align it inside the stude cover. Tack it in place in about 12 places, then test fit to the cylinder head. If you like it, weld it. Keep the heat to a minimum and move around after welding no more than one inch at a time. When finished, I mounted 3 cut-off wheels on my die-grinder to make a wider disk. This was the right size to grind the weld back flush with the studebaker sealing surface, being careful not to grind too much. It needs to be flat, not steve sellers pretty. Here's the finished product. I put drain holes in each end of the chevy piece to allow any oil getting between the two a way back to the pan The gaskets needed a minor trim at two corners... Now a little bit of traditional hardware to finish it off... The engine will be assembled soon, so I'll add that to my build thread. For the record, you can bolt centerbolt Studebaker covers on your late model belly button without all this, but now I am confident that oil leaks won't be an issue and I won't have to search out rare gaskets and grommets. Off the shelf gaskets and 5" threaded rod with brass washers and acorn nuts are easy to get. Ta daa!