Hot Rods Stuck flathead tranny

I used to daydream about this possibility...but accepted the fact that it wasn't 'achievable'.
PLEASE disassemble it so I may see the rear of that #78 tranny case!
The intermediate B/W plate has a different bolt pattern than the 6 at the bearing retainer (which is also the rear mount)
The trans/O.D. pictured here may be a ruse, too...an 'idea' that didn't quite work because of the lockout problem? Bolted together for a 'setup' to locate engine? Or???

 

Back to the original question? Fill with vinegar, soak, pressure wash. Repeat until you can see iron not iron oxide. The soak with ATF for days.

 

He is going to fill it with evaporust.

 

I 'd start with vinegar. Lots cheaper. There is a lot of rust there and one filling w/evaporust isn't going to get it all. I'd guess 50-75 bucks worth of the high priced spread, or $10 worth of vinegar. His choice.

 

There must be some numbers stamped on the case some where?

 

If the o/d is engaged and the trans is in reverse it will not turn. It may have gotten jammed when installed in the car and pulled out for that reason. Just a guess.

 

Whatever it is, it's a rare bird and should be reproduced.

 

This one bears some close inspection. The serial number on the top of the case will ID the year and case type. The OD tail housing appears to be a 49-50 Merc type but I’d have to see more of it to confirm that. The rear mystery is the OD adapter casting and how it’s mated to the rear of the case. Which rear ball bearing, which mainshaft, how’s the lockout rail configured, etc?

Would love to see this transmission and check out how someone made the modifications. The gears appear pretty rusty from the image. If you get frustrated with it, call us re getting it here to get apart (and rebuild it if that’s what you wish to do).

 

Andy, thank you for posting these shots for me. I took some more tonight and will send them to you in the a.m. Ken C suggested vinegar because it is so much cheaper. I think I will try that route first since I have a couple gallons in the pantry. There are some numbers on the pass. side of the tailshaft housing.

 

oldolds, this tranny was bolted to a 354 hemi. I don't think it was ever installed in anything. I bought the adapter because it was unique and the 3-sp came with it.

 

I didn't see a number on the top of the case but I'll hit it with a wire brush tomorrow and look for one.

 

If this were mine, I'd go the "Evaporust" route rather than vinegar because there is less chance of damage. Remember, vinegar is an acid, weak though it may be, and has the potential of damaging the metal in the transmission. I would worry especially about the brass synchronizer rings. I would imagine a gallon of "Evaporust" would do it for about $20. And then there is "Rust-911" concentrate which is cheaper, but works the same way (chellation). I wouldn't take a chance of damaging this to save a few bucks, but that's just me.

 

Speaking of wishbones, mine is unsplit which I would like to keep. That is one reason I hesitate to pull the trigger on a 700R-4 swap, one of several reasons. Would it be safe to drill out the rivets in the bottom plate and replace them with good bolts to make it removable?

IF, and that's IF, this morphrodite actually functions, I will put the guts and gears into a sideshift box so I can utilize the column shift.

 

O.K. Bud. I'll go back to Evaporust like Andy suggested. I don't want to damage anything

 

I'd also consider "Rust-911". It's a concentrate, and enough to make 16 gallons of solution is about the same cost as 5 gallons of "Evaporust". In my experience, real "Evaoprust" works a bit better, but for something like this, cost considerations kick in.

If you do pull the "guts and gears", I'm sure there is someone out there that would interested in the transmission case itself.

 

I think you could replace the rivets with bolts. I think they would need to be a tight or body fit bolt. I think I have read in the past that bolting frames together is not the best idea though. The after market X member in my 39 Fords frame is a bolt in with a drop out bottom plate. I think that is a very common alteration. That being said most of those conversions are not trying to use the stock wishbone. I have seen bottom plates of the drop out X members modified to receive the wishbone socket though.

If you are wanting to use the side shift gearbox I would look for a 49 mercury overdrive unit like I am using. The internals of the earlier 40 ford box are interchangeable. Did you say what type of car and engine you were planning to use this transmission in? I treat my trans pretty gently and it is behind a mild flatty. If I was going to run a 300 horse engine and wanted to get sporty on takeoff's I would put an overdrive automatic in it. Don't shoot me HAMB purists.

 

Given the color, do you suppose that it could be Military related?

 

Looks more like John Deere green than Military OD (Olive Drab)...........

Ray

 

When I replaced the front cross member on my '36 3-window, I used "button-head" caps screws that came with it. They have a recess for an allen wrench in the head. After I got them in, using lock washers and red Loctite, a dab of bondo and a few whacks with a piece of sandpaper and they looked just like rivets after I painted the area. I got the cross member and fasteners from Precision Coachworks in Billerica, MA. I don't know if they are still in business. "Button-head" caps screws should be available from any large fastener supplier.

 

LOL. Gotta be careful around our more "purist" amigos. I'm surprised Ryan will allow me to remain on HAMB. My main ride is a Deuce roadster stuffed with off-topic shit. Anyway, the car in question is my '40 Deluxe 2-dr. I had it rewired when we installed the Magnum 4" axle with a Posies reversed eye super slide. I want to use it like I do the Deuce, making cross-country cruises, but it has a leaky stock 3-sp. and a 4:11 banjo. My Bud who will do most of the work installing a 700R-4 and 8" Ford rear wants to pull the body but I'm resisting. I can't make the swap without my Bud so I started thinking about some form of o/d that would fit and retain my stock wishbone and X-member. Maintaining much of the stock stuff would save mucho time and some money. This weird trans I ended up with seemed to be sent from the Heavens, but I'm wondering now. And, thanks for your input regarding bolting in the bottom plate. I have more pics to send to Andy so I need to sign off.

 

Did you take it apart yet ?

 

I agree with The 39 Guy in post #46.......if you wish to be very confident in bolting the bottom plate in place, use close tolerance and/or high strength bolts. Visit the website catalogs of an aircraft materials supplier, like Aircraft Spruce & Specialties or Wicks...there are others. They have all manner of aircraft fasteners including the precision fit bolts that require reaming the hole to size. That should eliminate any potential ‘squirm’ of the bottom plate from wishbone forces.

Ray

 

Pictures of OD unit from Gary

 

Last pic seems to confirm this is a conversion. It appears the OD 'adapter plate was redrilled to use the available real estate on the main case in the absence of material to match plate's OE holes. I am sure there is more interesting info to come with disassembly.

Ray

 

Not yet. I'll get some Evaporust when I get back from Hondo and start disassembly. I really do appreciate the input from y'all. Thanks again, Andy, for posting the pics.

 

The rust, will also be in the bearings.