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Stuck Brake Drum?????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bigrickl74, May 16, 2010.

  1. bigrickl74
    Joined: May 7, 2010
    Posts: 246


    I cannot remove the rear brake hub off my 48 Plymouth coupe. The pin will not move. I have tried pb blaster and banging the crap out of it. Can somebody please give me some ideas to get it out?????????
  2. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,077

    scrap metal 48

    You have to have a puller for those old mopars.........
  3. Look near the wheel mounting surface and see if there is a whole that you can thread a bolt into.

    Scrap metal has probably given you the correct answer but some of cars from that era had a hole that you threaded a bolt into that pushed the drum off.

    Your other option may be a slide hammer with a hook on it and work yourway around the drum. My experience is that you can do a whole lot more with a slide hammer than you can with a conventional hammer.
  4. hotrod-Linkin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 3,382


    it takes a puller as scrapmetal said.

  5. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,229

    from California


    Learn from my mistake and do not attempt to remove that drum with anything else but the proper puller. you need a hub puller. I bought one from a cheapy flea market tool seller for about 50 bucks AFTER I warped my hard to find drum. check your local auto parts store to see if they rent tools if you don't want to buy one.

    those suckers are stuck on there. this is what you need. bolt it on and bash it with a hammer. it will pop off all at once so leave the big nut on a few turns to keep it from falling off and bouncing off your foot

  6. Pin is what, just a cotter pin isn't it? Worst case a small punch should get it started and pull it out with pliers a little at a time.
  7. Uh I misread. It doesn't say brake drum like I thought.
  8. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    from Phoenix AZ

    You need the correct puller whether you are pulling just the hub or hub and drum assy. That car has wheel bolts and a guide pin to line up the wheel to get the bolts started. The drum is riveted to the hub also. Loosen the big nut in the center a turn or 2 before using the puller. In extreme cases a oxy/acy torch may be needed.
  9. ex tractor
    Joined: Jul 7, 2010
    Posts: 5

    ex tractor
    from tucson

    Hey ratfink, any alternatives if the lugs are stripped?...I've tried the other style puller that wrap around behind the outer edges of the drum, but the teeth on this tool bent....
  10. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787


    2-piece hub/axle w/ a riveted drum like an AMC has, right.

    Cut the rivet heads off and then get a great big STRONG big truck type jaw gear puller and have at the hub.

    Might even put a schosh of heat on it!

  11. Zerk
    Joined: May 26, 2005
    Posts: 1,418


    If the brake adjuster is free, back it off as far as possible. Then loosen the axle nut a bit and attach the three-armed puller. Snug it up and give a few whacks with a hammer. It should pop off the tapered axle...but it's been on there a while, so who knows?
  12. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    from Phoenix AZ

    Being that uses lug BOLTS just Heli-Coil the holes which in less you are replacing the hub you will need to do anyway.
  13. InPrimer
    Joined: Mar 10, 2003
    Posts: 778


    Additional for what its worth, Stude rears have the same problem puller is needed
  14. Cymro
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 747


    Do you mean the cotter pin (split pin) through the castellated nut? A little heat, soaking with penetrating oil, careful use of a pin punch use a fair size hammer an it should drift out.

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