I’m the type that hates to ask for assistance in solving a problem, but I guess that’s what it’s come to ! SuperBell ‘32 style axle, hairpins, .125”toe-in, 6.5 deg caster, 0-0.5 deg camber (as it came,best I can measure), 32 psi, 6.00-16 bias ply, 1.5” rake front to rear. Car literally drives perfect, 85 mph on the interstate hands free, no pull, vibrations, etc. If the road is smooth, you would think you’re driving a 2018 car. The tires have 14,000 miles on them, and I started to see the pattern after just a few thousand miles, and been scratching my head ever since. Since the car drives perfect, I could just wear them out and forget about it, but all things have a reason, ................ I gotta know ! Any suggestions would be appreciated ! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes, both are identical, which would lean one to think axle camber, but I’ve checked so many times ................?
Weird though. Trying driving in reverse to even the wear out Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
lol I’ve checked it with my homemade gauge several times, and had it on alignment machines twice (last week latest), toe-in dead on .125”. I’ve never changed it because .125” is the standard on bias ply, but I could easily try .0625.
The wear pattern looks like excessive toe. Also, check your camber to make sure that you do not have negative camber. Negative camber will wear inside of tire, but the wear pattern you have looks more like excessive toe.
I agree with pic 3. Looks a little out. Specs...shmecs....... lol. try bringing in a bit. Rotate the tires and see what new wear you discover after some miles Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Must be a Chevy thing! I have one (passenger side) doing that on my truck. 6.00-16 Deluxe Champion. Nice looking sedan btw!
Right now the camber is 1/2 deg negative, would that be enough to cause that wear in 14,000 miles ? Maybe ?
Camera lens compression at closeup. I’ve rotated side to side but didn’t see any change. Can’t rotate to rears due to size difference.
It's caused by Tire Scrub. Take a strait edge and put it vertical against the King Pin and make a strait line to the ground following the pin. Your contact point is inboard of the inside of your Tire. Every time you turn the steering wheel you drag (scrub) the tire. Another issue that adds to that is incorrect Accerman. When all of these things are dead on you can turn the steering wheel to the lock either direction on a smooth floor and push the car with one hand and it will make a circle. If you can't do that, you have an issue. Camber, Caster and Toe arn't all there is to alignment. The Wizzard
Look up tire "river wear" pattern. Some rib tread designs wear that way. Lot of rubber out on the tire edge since the inner profile of the tire transitions from the tread to the sidewall. On some heavy truck tires they cut a decoupling groove on the outer edge to help combat that type of wear. If your specs are correct as you say, you may have to live with it on that style tread.
Had a local guy tell me this a few months ago ! An older gentleman that owned a tire store when bias was popular, said some bias patterns just wore on the inner ribs. ????????
Are you running bolt on steering arms and if so did you adjust them to be correct for your wheel base? The Wizzard
I disagree. I've had my hands in this stuff for more than a few weeks and know when all things related are right you won't have these issues. That statement is used when you just don't now how or want to fix it or in some cases want to sell more tires. The Wizzard
Yes, Pete & Jakes. I don’t remember if I had to change them or not, but I vaguely remember the process. I had a severe concussion type accident right when I finished the car, so a lot of the build details are fuzzy. I will follow up on that too ! Thanks again
If you actually set the Accerman correctly I doubt you would forget that you did it. If your not sure, it would be a very good thing to do just to be sure. Also to be the best it can be the King Pin ground contact point should be dead center of the Tire contact point. Most guys and even Shops don't know and don't care about it. That helps with Tire sales. The Wizzard
I've seen wear on the second rib on bias tires quite a bit, but it is even on both sides of the tire, not only one side. Alignment specs are great for the specific cars they were meant for...but sometimes you have to adjust things to work with the car you have. Might be it needs more toe in, might be it needs more camber. Remember that things are not the same with the car in motion, as with it sitting still. There is load on parts, and stuff deflects.
Yes, the specs are just a good place to start. I was taught in the early 70's to Test Drive everything after an alignment. 90 percent of the time a Car would go back on for just a little more something. If it didn't feel right a Customer wasn't going to like it at all. The Wizzard
The Jalopy Journal
