check your wires inside the dist.... from the condensor to points and the wire from points to coil....maybe when the dist plate advances one of those wires ground out or are broken and interupt the spark..?..... Actually tho' sounds more like you have a fuel supply problem now....
one other thought...those old Chevies had a vacuum assist shifter and maybe you have one bad vacuum leak when you shift?...
Yea I'm thinking fuel also,If it does have a vacuum leak hows the best way to check that.Could I just hold the clutch pedal down and give it some gas and see if it starts to cut out? Or is it more complex than that....
IF your car has the vacuum assist... as near as I remember it was activated by the shifting lever...kind of a diaphram pot ..at.. or on the trans. I don't think the clutch had anything to do with the operation of the vacuum assist. Maybe you can get under there and check to see if it even has a vacuum line or chamber...Just grasping for straws here to figure out possible problems
Yea man,as soon as I shut it of I pop the hood and disconnect the battery.It still has the original wiring from 48 so like ya said better be safe on that one.
I was looking in my Motors manuel last night and see whay yout talking about,will check tonight if the car has that or not-thanx man
So I think I may be close to solving my problem,I think my fuel may be vaporizing due to the large diameter heat riser tubes from my header into the intake manifold.Causing the motor to die when under load.let me know what you guys think.
It's possible Mark, that's a symptom when the stock heat riser flap sticks in the closed position. Have you any sort of spacer/insulation blocks under the carbs? If not try making some up out of 3/8-1/2 hardwood at least as a experiment .Carb heat back in your area ain't a bad idea but that looks to be over kill. A 3/8s hole in each tube would be a plenty I would think.
I think there even bigger that that,There is a spacer under the carb now.(only have one,one barrel)The spacer is 3/4 inch.Could I just use a piece if sheet metal in between where the header and intake manifold mate to cover those holes?Then I guess if that works drill two small holes that would be over the tubes,but maybe only 1/8 of an inch?....
Replaced the fuel filter(clogged-original glass bowl type),plugs,coil,condenser and adjusted the points,went through all the wiring through out the car and found some issues.Replaced wires as necessary.(i want to install a new wiring harness next spring).The motor sounds very strong,very responsive and idles much better.With the new parts heat risers should be fine .Another test drive next weekend-thanks for the help everyone- keep ya posted
Well finally got to get the car out today.Went about a mile and half and it started to break up again,pulled over and the motor stalled and couldn't get it to start again.Now this time I had someone fallow me.The motor does smoke a little(white),When the motor started to brake up it turned black.Temp was 160.Got the car home and tried to start the car a few hours later and then it starts up and runs fine but afraid to take it out again and brake down-I'm lost,need to get this sorted out
black smoke is overfueling, could it possibly be a stuck float needle? check float and see if it has sunk,
I going to pull the carb tomarrow and see if the float is stuck or if it is filling up-thanks for your infoWhat does "sunk" Meen?
A sunk float just means the float is no longer floating at the height it is supposed to. Usually caused by the float filling up with fuel on the old brass style or absorbing fuel for the modern plastic foam ones. Doubt that is the problem if it re-starts and runs OK. Float may be binding on the carb body or a odd bit of dirt got on the needle. Try setting the float 1/32 to 1/16 lower than normal. Also make sure the float does not drop too far as sometimes that will cause them to stick leaving the needle open.
Well its update time=Adjusted the float(wasn't correct before),Found clogged fuel filter-replaced both filters and new fuel pump and cleared the lines...and it still was doing the same thing,run but would`nt start back up,my pops came over to help and found the distributor was loose,he turned it and it fkn started in a sec.Problem fixed!!!!Tightened it down and went for my first test drive and made it home with no problems,it ran great!Finely got this thing running the way it should!WooooHoooo!
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