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Technical Straightening my '37 chassis

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Bigstar, Jan 1, 2016.

  1. Bigstar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 183

    Bigstar
    Member
    from Austin

    Just running this by you guys to see what you think. I put my '37 chassis on stands and checked the squareness and levels. It is square and level in the middle however it is a little tweaked in the front and rear. About an inch in the rear and a half inch in the front. I have seen some threads on straightening these frames and some guys take a 2x4 and hammer and beat the thing into submission :) I am thinking mine isn't that far off and I hate to beat the crap out of it.
    I was thinking about installing some anchor bolt eyelets into my shop floor, bracing the frame in the level areas and using a come along or ratchet straps to pull the thing level and once it is level again weld in some cross braces. I have seen where guys take 12" out of these frames to get the "Rudy" truck look that I ultimately want so I plan on installing some new cross members anyway. Any thoughts? Tips?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Ame I having a Brain Fart or are you using the level incorrectly? I think the end bubbles are for a vertical check when the flat beam edge is against a post or wall, not laying on it's side. Is that some kind of New level? Plus I know a lot of people use a spirits type to get going. Personally I've changed over to a digital Pro level. 10 times more accurate. Straiten me out here pal.
    The Wizzard
     
  3. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,584

    choptop40
    Member

    That's will work , just go past level in the opposite direction a bit , it will spring back ...take it slow ..I would go past level about an inch...check and if not yet ..go 1 1/2......increments or if you got far you have to reverse the process....no real need to weld in reinforcing for a slight tweak......not uncommon for some of these to leave the factory that way.....did my 36 Buick chassis.....works great
     
  4. We have to assume that the garage floor is perfectly level and the stands are matched in height?? I'd try to find what tolerances are acceptable from the factor also. You may be closer than you realize.
     
    wbrw32 likes this.
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  5. Bigstar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 183

    Bigstar
    Member
    from Austin

    Dude the photo shows that I am holding the level "level" and there is approx a 1" gap on the left side. All I was trying to show was the sag in the rear of the frame. On the front it is on the opposite side. When I put the jack stand under the front passenger corner as the photo shows and stand on the front driver's side corner the frame just settles and twists back level in the front and the rear. I'm thinking anchor loops in the floor and pull the thing back into shape.
     
  6. I seen that. What is the revelancy of the other 2 photo's?
     
  7. Bigstar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 183

    Bigstar
    Member
    from Austin

    … it shows where the frame is not level?
     
  8. Your idea is on the right track. 40 years ago when I actually worked with a Frame Rack we had all the Blue Prints of these Old frames. Once finding the most accurate section of the frame I would tie it down. In your case it sounds like it's the passenger section. Next is to decide if it has a low or high corner. Next is to push up or pull down and some times it's both due to a twist. After years of repairing damaged vehicles I can say I have never welded in extra anything to keep a chassis in place. I have however cut out many a Wrinkled section and done rail section repairs. Wescott's on line catalog has Frame diagrams posted in it and has the info you'll need to have.
    Good Luck
    The Wizzard
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  9. Bigstar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 183

    Bigstar
    Member
    from Austin

    Nice. That is where I had seen the frame dimensions. I couldn't find them. Thanks
     
  10. I learned on there web sight I have to click on there Home page then go to the Tech information. Clicking on there Tec link in the drop down didn't want to work for me.
     
  11. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 901

    Joe H
    Member

    Use your floor jack and some log chain. Put the jack on top of the frame and run the chain around the frame and jack. When you lift the chain with the jack, the frame will bend down under the jack pulling the end back up. Go slow and keep checking. If it doesn't need much, it will save some drilling into the floor and creating trip hazards.
     
  12. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,827

    indyjps
    Member

    You're on the right track, I wouldn't trust the floor and jack stands as level and start moving the frame based on that. Your frame is out of whack, but the floor could be making it look worse than it is.

    You know any guys that race circle track, they bend frames every week and generally have some equipment to straighten them out. Know anyone with a frame table, or anyone at a body shop that may throw it on a frame machine after hours for cash. I've gotten a few straightened in the past using these suggestions.

    Eye bolts screw into a lug that drives into the concrete, when you start on this job it will pull out of the floor, likely in a violent manner. Stay safe.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2016
  13. ronzmtrwrx
    Joined: Sep 9, 2008
    Posts: 450

    ronzmtrwrx
    Member

    If he uses his level across the frame itself as a means to get each end in agreement with the center section, then it is of no consequence if his floor is not dead flat. If he were planning on measuring up from the floor to frame, then it would matter. Carry on.
     
    cretin likes this.
  14. Bigstar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 183

    Bigstar
    Member
    from Austin

    The floor is flat, smooth and level….as you were
     
    ronzmtrwrx likes this.
  15. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,827

    indyjps
    Member

    If you can hold the frame solid it will work.
     
  16. bigstar, do you have a porta-power unit?
    If not use an upright from the right rear corner of the main crossmember and run a come-a-long over top to the rear of the frame. cranking on the come-a-long will pull up the bent section.
     
  17. Bigstar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2010
    Posts: 183

    Bigstar
    Member
    from Austin

    I don't have a porta power but I do have a come along. I'm trying to picture the best way to do this.
     

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  18. dtracy
    Joined: May 8, 2012
    Posts: 223

    dtracy
    Member

    Find a frame diagram that shows a datum line so that you can determine if the right side is up or the left side is down. Do this before you start bending the frame horns. Also, the amount of twist you have is so small it could have been done with a bumper jack changing a tire.
    Get a frame chart first.
    Dave..
     

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