Found this very cool Accutronic 11,000 (11,500) RPM mechanical tach! I can't seem to find much internet information on it. The older fella I bought it off of said he purchased it new many many years ago and never ended up using it. Been sitting on his shelf since. Next I need to tracking down a tach drive distributor and cable!
cool! That's a rebranded Jones Motrola tach. There is some info out there on them....somewhere... they were most commonly sold as Moroso tachs. When you're searching for a cable for it, you'll probably be better off searching for a Moroso tach cable. I had one like it in my car for a little while, but it wasn't new, and it had some issues.
Perfect squirrel thanks for the information , but what I take away is that you have a cable hanging in your shop........ hmmmmm......
took a few minutes to find the box, but yeah, I have a 3 ft and a 4 ft and a sticky Moroso tach. The cables have the small square end, which was used on OEM chevy distributors in Corvettes, but some aftermarket distributors use the round with a tang drive.
Just got somewhat caught up with your thread Dan. Love the car and your work. Sorry to hear about the engine. Carry on buddy .
Very nice squirrel. I found today, honestly by chance...... I was "working" today. A Mallory tach drive distributor. It has the small square end.
I think that's the same model I have in my car. somewhere there's video of it running 9.89 with that thing
lmk if you want a cable....first you gotta figure out how long. I used the 3 foot in mine, you can see where I mounted the tach.
Let me know what length cable you need and I can make it up for you no problem. Just PM me or call the shop. Sent from my iPhone www.speedoservice.com Should I rush your rush job or the rush job I was rushing when you rushed in?
Nice build Dan, here is a 'era-correct Chevy II. Also, when you load your pictures hear you can select the LARGE image which makes seeing your pictures way better for all of us.
Thanks for the offer squirrel. Looks like e1956v will be building me up a new cable. Hoping to have the tach all mounted up to confirm cable length later today. Enjoy D
Spent a late nite tinkering in the garage. Mocked the sheet metal (hood maybe later today) back on the car. Did this mostly to free up space in the garage. Hopefully later this week I will finalize the front fender mounts but otherwise everything seems to fit well. I did some auto wrecking picking a few days back and found a single groove short water pump pulley and single groove crank pulley. Other then tracking down an alternator bracket the pulley location and fitment are all worked out. Honestly I am glad..... usually (for me) tracking down pulleys is a pain..... I have mocked in an original 4 blade GM fan which I will either space closer (combined with a shroud) to the rad once installed or keep in place along with a big ole electric fan. I want no overheating worries on this ride. I mounted the tach and measured the length for the cable. I will get that to e1956v tomorrow. Having been in communication with the driveline shop I crawled under the car to take measurements. I figured for sure I would have to shorten the driveshaft. To my surprise it is a perfect fit. So a conversion joint adapting to the big Olds diff is all that is required. Now on to the rear brakes. The original rear e-brake cable are in fantastic shape and operate smoothly. After a quick clean and lubricating I reinstalled. Hopefully tonight I will have the drum brakes installed. Hopefully......
Rear brakes installed! The shoes and drums from the big olds were in great shape so I am reusing them. I ordered a new spring kit although the original springs are much heavier duty and seem in good shape so I reused them too. The original adjusters are rough so I repurposed the 63 chevy ii adjusters that look new. Overall everything went together well, including hooking up the 63 e-brake cable to the Olds 11" brakes. Onto running the Olds housing brake lines.
Been a bit since I posted. Mostly waiting on some parts so in the mean time took care of a few random items on my list. I removed the turbo 350 transmission kickdown and made a plate and gasket cover for the hole. Since I had the pan off to remove the linkage I replaced the pan gasket and filter. I did pick up my newly balanced driveshaft. Good thing I had two in my shop because the first one I took could not be used. It seems a driveline shop attempted to straighten it in the past.... to far gone. I did finish (sorta) off the fan belt routing and alternator mounting location. I thought I had this worked out but I didn't...... not enough adjustment to tension the belt - due to the subframe firewall bar. Using a piece of scrap angle iron I made a mount to raise the alternator. It worked perfectly and there is enough swing to both take off and tension the belt without issue. Now that I know it works I will make a nicer bracket. One of the pieces I am waiting on are Ansen lock blocks for the big Olds. The third member is cleaned, painted and ready when they arrive, hopefully later this week. I will install the blocks, get the third member installed and fit the driveshaft. Not sure why but excited about that.
looking good. I wonder if you might want to run a brace from the water pump (where the other bracket attaches), to the lower bolt on the alternator. Just to keep things from moving around. There's a lot of leverage on the mounting bracket, and they're known to crack and break....
Absolutely squirrel. I had been eying up a sorta L bracket to tie into a nearby cylinder head bolt hole. Will post finished pics in a few days or so......
The front is connected to the back........can someone explain why that is such a good feeling? I know the engine is not running and I still have a lot of work ahead, but dang it feels good!
it means you've accomplished a lot. Congrats! also, you can put it in Park and it won't be able to roll away
So today received a few parts I had order a while back. The local hot rod shop has been..... while a pain in the ass to deal with. Great on the phone but there follow up is pretty bad. I moved, they failed to update my address. Parts get shipped to my old house...... not to mention I received parts for a ford 150 brake conversion instead of my gm brakes to ford spindles......... anyway back on track. I ordered straight steering arms, tie rods and link, and tie rods and drag link. Got everything together which was a bit like putting together a puzzle. All had to be assembled loose due to the brake caliper lower bolt interfering with the steering arm(that's my bad). Once everything was loosely assembled I ackwardly tightened everything up. Initially I was going to use an old 3 3/4 drop steering arm flipped and pointed to the front of the vehicle, mounted using the top holes on the passenger side spindle. It does not seem like it will work, for two reasons. The mounting bolt arch (steering arm) is not large enough to go around the upper spindle king pin mount (I figured spacers could resolve that issue), and two the brake caliper hose mounting location is completely in the way. Anyone out there have thoughts on that. Seem awfully tight quarters, something I did not anticipate. I know speedway does a gasser ford spindle steering arm although when I look at the pictures online the caliper is very different and there appears to be alot more room. Possible a flat steel steering although the arch to fit around the upper king pin mount seems small. There is a way I am sure just not seeing it at the moment.....
I think I figured a solution..... I think...lol Using a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle iron I trimmed out a steering arm similar to the flat arms available at Speedway. The material is not a thick as the Speedway arms but I will address that in three ways, plate the bottom edge of the longer portion, gusset the two spindle mounting tabs, and I left a portion (greater then 3/8") of the "angle" to further add strength along the length of the arm. I do believe it will be plenty strong. Thanks to Hamber: Duncan for passing onto me a forged tie rod bung which I plan to flush mount/weld with the top of the steering arm. The tie rod will insert from the top. On the pitman arm side I need to ream to a 7 degree ford taper. It will mount from the bottom. Having the tie rod sit low into the steering arm along with the correct taper on the pitman arm I do believe the drag link will be close/spot on? parallel with the axle.
A quick shout out to HAMB member Rusty (e1956v) at Speedometer Service in Colorado Springs for building me up a tach drive cable. Install was a breeze and it fits perfectly!
Hi rusty. It actually arrived fairly quickly. Just took me a while to get it installed. Also I see spell check got me. I changed the name of your shop from Odometer to Speedometer. Thank you again! D
Exhaust (if you can call it that......) worked out! I wanted to have this all figured out before finishing off my brake and fuel lines. Keep everything clear of the hot exhaust. All is slipped together and will need to be tacked and final welded. For anyone interested out there, the two pipes with the s type bend are intermediate pipes off a chevy truck, they are 2.5inch and can be had for cheap. Overall I like it and I think it will sound, good, loud but good. D
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