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Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Retson the Racer, Mar 14, 2023.

  1. I'm in the process of picking up a '26 or '27 T frame, and plan on building a little single seater with a stock-ish banger. Ideally using front and rear Model T springs, and front and rear Model A axles.

    I've been told that it's better to bolt stuff to a T frame than it is to weld to it. As far as engine and transmission mounting, what have people had success in doing?
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,296

    Pete Eastwood
    from california

    T frames are made from very good quality steel.
    They weld just fine.
    I built a T truck on a T frame with a 4 cylinder Chev 153 Nova engine, 39 trans , and an A rear end,
    was a fun car to drive.
    My 15 depot hack.jpg
    S1B, dwollam, hotrodfil and 20 others like this.
  3. That's fantastic! Do you have any more frame photos?
  4. chessterd5
    Joined: May 26, 2013
    Posts: 897

    from u.s.a.

    I just wanted to second the fact that model T frames are good steel.
    Henry made his frames out of vanadium steel. They were super strong and took twisting loads very well.
    I have fully boxed a Model T frame and run a 302 with a c4 in a 1927 coupe without problems.
    Packrat and Okie Pete like this.

  5. How was welding the frame? I’ve been told that it’s better to bolt the T frame than it is to weld it, somehow it affects the flexing?
    chessterd5 likes this.
  6. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 1,210

    Tow Truck Tom
    from Clayton DE

    The flexing of the T chassis was a feature that Henry wanted because of the terrain that car had to work with in 1910.
    Larger rigid chassis would often find a loss of traction control because of ruts and uneven surfaces, especialy when crossing streams. ( "Get a horse" )
  7. mohr hp
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 615

    mohr hp
    from Georgia

    I love this thing! Canopy Express!
  8. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 4,844

    rusty rocket

    I have two cars with T frames both are heavily modified. Both are boxed and everything has been welded on. The roadster is lengthened using two sets of rails. Reason being was to get room for the flathead and I’m using 35-6 rear wishbones that run the spring behind the axle.
    The single seater uses T rails also. 935C483D-565A-46BE-AE09-D369B0C538E5.jpeg 08772DE1-386B-4D7E-B8B6-6C0CD33D176C.jpeg
    hfh and Retson the Racer like this.
  9. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 4,844

    rusty rocket

    This is the single seaters T frame in the post above. 8F0C6637-BFA1-4B95-9EFD-ECEC668E9C7C.jpeg 3EFB0B30-1B66-416C-9CDC-69049BAFB841.jpeg
  10. I'd be using mine with a mostly stock banger. I'm thinking of adding some sort of bolt-in crossmember, and possibly wood inbetween the rails for a little added support.

    Thank you for all the info! I remember reading your build thread on the single seater some time ago. Time to read it all again!
  11. chessterd5
    Joined: May 26, 2013
    Posts: 897

    from u.s.a.

  12. I'd use a T chassis with a banger.
    It's in an A frame, but I built this X member recently to drop under the original and gain some foot space for a 24T roadster build. Stiffens it up a treat and bolts in place on the original engine mount bolts up front and a couple of original holes at the rear. Only had to drill two extra holes. IMG_3738.jpg
    GASSERBOB likes this.

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