Technical stick welders-advise please

On my way to pickup a used stick welder. It's been years (decades really) since I'v played with one and I'm wondering what sort of rod I should get. I'm not up on the numbering system they use to determine heat range/composition ect these days. I don't have anything specific right now, but can see thick gauge mild steel as a principal use.
Also comments on the 'Emerson' badge welder would be welcome. So... Take me to school.

 

A 6011 rod would be a good one to start your learning process over with.

 

We used 6010 and 7013 in school back in the 70s. Don't remember which was better for AC, and which for DC.

 

I was told to use 7018AC rod for heavier structural things. Don't get 7018 AC/DC . I am by no means an "expert" but had good luck with the 7018AC , actually had some nice looking beads!

 

hold out for a DC welder....

 

As Jim said
If you ever used a DC stick welder you would be hard pressed to use an AC machine again.

 

There is a reason why they call them STICK WELDERS

 

I would start out with 6011, in 3/32 and 1/8 sizes, then try some 7018. Some AC machines will not run the 7018 very well.

 

I've used 6011 with my Lincoln AC "buzz box" for many years with good results. You can't drag it like 7018, but provides better penetration.

 

Just as a general rule of thumb, the rod should be about the same diameter as the thickness of metal you will be welding. As above, a 6011 is a good place to start, especially on dirty, rusty, metal and galvanized metal. Its a "fast freeze" rod, not going to be pretty but will get the job done. Work it in a circle, or a back and forth motion. Good Luck to you.

 

3/32 6013 for chassis work,
Keep the rod absolutely clean and dry.
Weld material clean and good fit will make a nice weld.

 

I have a good old 70s Lincoln 220amp buzz-box. I have burned a lot of 6013 but pretty much use 7014 exclusively on all my mild steel welding nowadays. It has better controlled penetration for a sporadic welder like me and lays down a prettier bead than 6011 and the iron in the shielding coating makes the arc more stable. The first 2 or 3 digit number in rod designation is the nominal tensile strength of the steel in the rod; 60 => 60,000psi, 70 => 70,000psi, etc. The next digit specifies recommended position; 1 = all position except vertical down, 2=horizontal only, 3 = universal. The last digit is the key to the weld shielding and whether it is AC and/or DC; 1= DC, 3= AC/DC, 4= AC/DC with iron powder in shielding, etc.

Get 3/32" and 1/8" rod and that should cover it all. Key to whatever system you use is of course lots of practice.

 

Ditto on the 7014.

 

Dont spend much on this, get an ac/dc machine, use some good 1/8" 7018, crank up the heat and let it weld itself......

 

Using 6011 will give you some idea of your rod control. Too fast or slow ect. As others have said it's good for not so perfect metal. 7014 is easy to weld with with a nice bead. Stay away from 7018 unless you have a place to keep them dry as just the moisture in the air can effect the flux and the bead. There called low hydrogen for a reason.
Can't comment on the Emerson machine. Never used one.

 

Emerson Electric is a well-known brand in the industry, just not known for welders. They're the current #1 brand for sink disposals (Insinkerator), but also build a ton of electric motors for commercial/industrial use among other things as well as supplying motors to other manufacturers. They are not an 'off-brand' by any means, just one that may not be familiar to people not in in the electrical business. They're also the parent company of the Ridge Tool Company (RIDGID), you've heard of them.

I'll also recommend 70-series rod for ease of use, but it needs clean metal (no rust, paint, galvanizing) to work properly. 'Dirty' metal, use a 60-series rod. I'll use 1/16" rod for light stuff, 3/32" for most, and 1/8" for 1/4" or thicker material. Rod diameter shouldn't be larger than the thickness of the metal being welded.

 

Is that an AC/DC version? It looks like AC on the left and DC on the right.

 

I'm with Jim, wait for an ac/dc unit. You will find that you will use it in the DC mode almost exclusively.
When I had my AC unit, I used 6013 for the majority of my welding, and 6011, when I wanted better penetration.
With the DC welder, I use 7018

 

That's what I use to use,My son-in-law wanted mine so I gave it to him. HRP

 

You can get a good used DC welder at a auction for under $100.00. Don't waste your time with a AC machine. You also want to get a machine that you can adjust the setting one amp at a time as opposed to the numbers settings or that jump several amps at a time.
You can also use the DC machine for scratch start TIG welding with the addition of a argon bottle and TIG setup. ( mild steel and SS ) You would need High Frequency AC to weld Aluminum.
Welding rod;
309 dissembler metals such as SS to mild steel.
316L SS welding.
6010 or 6011 root pass or tacking metal together.
7018 good for structural welding ( Industry standard)

 

Beats the hell out of no frigging welder no matter what the self styled experts say.
Looking back, my T bucket frame got built by one of the best welders in Central Texas in the mid 70's using his Lincoln 225. That was his welder in his home shop. The welder that a friend of mine in Waco used to build who knows how many hot rods didn't look a lot different than that Emerson.
That welder is old and probably a lot older than some of the guys who posted on here but if it works good use it. If you aren't a skilled welder make things with it as practice and learning just as high school AG shop kids make plant stands and other things as first projects to learn and develop your skill on. Just don't go out and start welding on the frame of you car while never having welded before.

 

Take time to watch Jody on Welding Tips and Tricks.com he has a lot of good information. Jody is down to earth about all kinds of welding, Mig, TIG and Stick. Lots of video shots.
Google. Down and Dirty Welding and his site is the first one on the suggested sites. There is a tab for Stick Welding. Frank

 

You would think this welder would get more love, given how it's as 'traditional' as it gets... LOL. As said, this was the type of welder that was most commonly used 'back in the day'. This one is actually a bit better than some.

And lost in all the opinions is the fact that the main difference in welders is ease of use and weld appearance, not necessarily weld strength. Learn how to weld good on one of these and 'moving up' in welder features will be easy...

Plus, these old welders were pretty robust; no expensive-to-replace electronics to worry about.

 

^ Good all round advise... Thanks to all. I took a pass on the welder this time, there was other stuff there that made it worth the trip. Now I know better what to look for if a deal comes around.

 

Has anyone ever tried Kar products Kar Alloy high tensile A/C D/C welding rod ? I used it for years when I worked for the Govt. It is super easy to use and makes beautiful looking high strength welds.
It comes in a real nice plastic case and lasts forever on the shelf without attracting moisture.
I needed a stick machine for some projects , so I picked up a Harbor Freight welder and it seems to do well for what it is.

 

I've been using a Lincoln 225 ac welder for decades. I was using 6013 rods almost exclusively, the 6011 has a lot of snap-crackle-pop to them.

I just switched over to a 7018 rod, Harbor Fright has them in small packages. 7014 is also a nice rod, good for doing roll cages. The last thing I made was the motor mounts on my Ford, used a 3/32" 7018 and ran it at 150 amps. Took a nice bite and made a strong weld.

 

Bob, 7018 should be run on DC.
I am surprised they are running well.
You won’t believe how well they run on DC.

 

I'm speaking from 55 years experience as a Boilermaker. Forget the AC, but if you buy one use 6011, 6013 and 7014. For DC on rusty metal, use 6010 for your first pass. Depending on how hot you run it, it will clean out the crap in the joint. Wire brush it well and finish up with 7018 for strength. Keep your rod dry and if you have a rod heater, keep it at 250 degrees. Using rod that has been damp or simply left open to the atmosphere will put hydrogen into the weld and make it brittle which will lead to cracking. If you've got the heat right, constant speed and constant motion will produce welds with the right amount of penetration and machine quality looks.

 

I took out some arc welding rods I had stored away for a few years. The were in their original (opened) plastic packaging, but were stored in one of those blue plastic rod cases. I could not run a decent bead with any of them. I went to the FLAPS and bought a new package of 6013's and never had a problem. Now days, I only buy what I know I need for the immediate future

 

I definitely believe you. Maybe I am too dumb to know I'm doing it wrong.