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Technical Step notch plate thickness

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by StefanS, Oct 23, 2018.

  1. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    So I got a "new" set of leaf springs for my '51. They're from a '53 sedan but they still have a positive arch, where as my original springs had been heated into a negative arch. Anyway, I put them in with 3" blocks and now my axle hits my frame/exhaust pipes which made me decide I need a notch sooner than later. I had the gambino notch in my cart but then I saw how much shipping was going to be :eek:. On that note I'm making my own. Now, I saw his notch was 3/16" plate. The frame is about 1/8" thick. Now for the question...is 3/16" ideal or just common? In other words, should I use 3/16 or should I use 1/8 like Chevy did? I'll be adding the bottom frame lip along the entire length of the notch if that makes a difference as well as adding the 5/16" strip along the inner/upper notch cover.
     
  2. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,070

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I always go overkill when I build anything. I would use the thicker steel.
     
  3. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks for the response man. I decided as soon as I posted, that I'm just going with the 3/16" since it's such a small difference. I tried to delete the thread but I dont know how.
     
  4. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,242

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon


  5. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,282

    Nostrebor
    Member

  6. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Don't delete it. Post pictures of the surgery. Inquiring minds want to know!
     
  7. Yea what he said
     
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,946

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yuppers, inquiring minds want to see all the incriminating pictures of this project.
    I'd agree on the blooming shipping costs though. I sent a cast aluminum valve cover for my 292 off to be polished yesterday and now I won't even be able to afford the cheap beer for the rest of the week.
     
  9. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    Do any of you guys know the frame rail height (from the bottom of the top hat lip to the top of the frame rail) where the pencils pointing? The paper says 4 37/64" is the tallest...it looks about half as tall. RMONTY, is the body still off your car? 15416111783805309533587801682131.jpg
     
  10. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I'll measure when I get home.
     
  11. StefanS
    Joined: Oct 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,287

    StefanS
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks brother. That's the one thing I forgot to measure while I was under there. I want to make my notch place twice as tall as the frame is.
     
  12. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    As luck (YOUR LUCK!) would have it, I put the 4 door body on the frame yesterday to start slicing and dicing. I was able to get a fairly accurate measurement however and you are correct, it is nowhere near 4 37/64".....more like 2 and 15/16" inches. I measured where the factory bump stop is for the rear axle.
     
  13. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    The idea is to spread the load caused by removing the section over a larger area this reinforcing it. I personally wouldn't use a straight edge on the ends of the plate but scallop them, radius the corners. Less stress
    nuDscn1062.jpg
    10463954_533756640083594_854326471553062171_n.jpg
    upload_2018-11-8_9-12-8.png
    upload_2018-11-8_9-17-58.png
    nuDscn1062.jpg

    View attachment 4088698

    upload_2018-11-8_9-17-58.png

    10463954_533756640083594_854326471553062171_n.jpg
     
    Chavezk21 likes this.

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