Friend did an old Ford wheel I think it was a 40 or so (banjo?).. anyway he used JB Weld. Came out fine, looks new after he painted it.
I tried JB weld, but was thin and ran off the wheel. PC7 is thicker and sticks to the core of the wheel, and much easer to work with. began by applying multiple coats of PC 7 over several days, cure each coat before adding more. The best sanding tools I found were foamboard nail files finished wheel with airbrush woodgrain
I used jb on the last one I did. I recently bought their new stick epoxy and it was much better. I was more like a putty and dries slot faster.
JB Weld PUTTY is the way to go. I've used PC7 and it's 50/50 at best, and the epoxy wheel kits are hard to work with. Trust me, JB is the easiest to use. You can layer new on top of the old and it sands evenly and will outlast PC7. The problem with PC7 is that it shrinks over time. Also, be SURE you v-groove all the way down to the metal inner core.
I used the PC7 on a 1946 ford, and it worked ok. Looks good for First job ever on restoring a steering wheel. I just bought a 40 ford here on the H.A.M.B from dirtbag13 and im thinking on useing some JB.
This is the key. I used a small file and V'd all the cracks. Then I just used plastic bumper repair compound.
I did mine with JB and it did a good job. The next wheel I did I used modelers epoxie. This is some fast curing stuff they use to build the 1/4 scale RC planes. I did my wheel 2 years ago with it and it hasn't shrunk or distorted and if I ever do another one I will use the modelers stuff again.
My son fixed his Falcon wheel with body filler as a temporary fix for a "temporary" previously f/u'ed wheel, but so far so good, it has been about 6 months and it still looks great... Not a recommendation, just an observation...
I vee'd the cracks in my rubber steering wheel and filled them with JB Weld. When the thermometer dips hair line cracks appear on every repaired area. When the wheel sits in the hot sun for a while the cracks almost disappear. Very disappointing results for the amount of time spent.
They make a putty stick for radiators that works very well and dries fast, the putty will sand well and stays hard. (grey on the inside and black on the outside) Sold at all auto stores. CRUISER
OK, my response should probably be clarified. When I responded originally I automatically assumed that the thread starter (ago) was asking about a bakelite or similar HARD plastic type steering wheel. In which case JB Weld, in my experience, is likely the best. However, you MUST use a patch material with similar properties to the original material. if you are talking hard rubber that has "give" then JB Weld will NOT be the best solution. I believe that Evercoat would work best in that scenario. Also, and I personally believe that this is a KEY element to success, in addition to V-grooving the plastic/rubber, I also have resorted to taking a drill shaped bit that is about 1/8 to 3/16 and have drilled pilot holes in the SIDES of the V-grooves to allow more contact area between the two materials. This allows the new material to anchor itself into the old material. In the past I haven't done this, but since I started doing it, I have noticed far less gaps from shrinkage and temperature changes. Hope this helps...
A good tool to open up the cracks and help in the "V" groove is a spiral cut bit like those used with a Roto-zip tool. I have been using some 2 part plastic repair materials for quite some time now. While not on steering wheels it works well on most other plastics. 3M, SEM, and Plio grip by Valvoline are 3 products of this type. They come in a dual tube with a mixing tip you use in what looks like a caulking gun. You can get them from an automotive paint supplier. They don't usually have solvent in them so they don't shrink. They sand fairly easy, and bond really well.
Por15 makes a steering wheel repair kit. It's a two part clay like bars.You cut off equal chunks to the amount you need to work with.Then you knead them together. My lady and I recently reworked her steering wheel on her 55 Ford and it worked out great.
I've done a few and PC7 is what I use, it has a workable consistency and sands at the same rate as the wheel plastic, also it adheres better. I file the cracks and overfill the first application of PC7, rough file within 24 hours, sand then one more spot application of PC7 (pinholes), then prime and paint. Haven't had any cracking or shrinkage issues, but I also file down to the metal ring.
PC-7 It's easy to shape for missing sections and it is easy to file to shape, sand and paint. You can buy more expensive stuff but I don't know why you would want to.
Personally, I've used PC7...after about 2 years I got major shrinkage, to the point that the wheel looked even worse. Short term maybe it's good, but my long term experience hasn't been too positive.
Couple questions...... My wheel has no small cracks, but some 1/8" gaps here and there......do I need to v-groove those too? What kind of paint and primer?
Sem makes a product called problem plastic repair 39368 i used it on my 42 merc wheel its great. I just sanded it with 80 grit and mixed and put on . Billy
I was at work one day and had some time on my hands and no opportunnity to get a special product. I used good old JB WELD and it worked very well, I have done 3 wheels now with JB WELD. I use a hacksaw blade to clean up the cracks and get to solid material, mask the edges of the work area and then smear on the JB WELD. I use a half round file then lots of wetsanding with sanding sponges and it works very well. I enjoy fixing steering wheels it is easy, instant results and you can do a very nice job at it.
Well I am for sure no expert, I have never repaired a wheel, but the way I see it is that no matter how GREAT the repair/filler product, if the parent material is still shrinking, further cracks are going to develop.... A well applied product with special attention to getting a good bond and limiting sun exposure will slow the process some but I doubt it can be stopped. imo the "hard plastic" wheels are going to be troublesome as they seem to eventually bust all to shit, their eventual end is to only be the metal ring and framework that was once it's innards... At least that is how they ended up in the desert southwest where I used to live....
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