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Steering: Universal Joints

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slick's Speed Shop, Sep 27, 2010.

  1. Slick's Speed Shop
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 19

    Slick's Speed Shop
    Member

    Anyone know where to look for universal joints for steering that don't cost $50 each? Looked at jeep cherokees already, but I think I will have to cut and weld those at least on the rod end. Still thinking up ideas. Any advise on cars and trucks at the junkyard to look for that use removable universal joints?

    Thanks,
    Todd
     
  2. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    You would probably spend more money digging around in junk yards looking for OEM stuff that could be adapted but do you really want to go cheap in your steering system?

    Borgeson and others sell both show quality plated stuff and plain steel units priced accordingly.
     
  3. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,540

    40StudeDude
    Member

    Get Borgeson...the time and money you spend trying to go cheap will work out to be more expensive...and seriously, you want to mess with steering...???

    R-
     
  4. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    They aint that expensive..when you think about how safe they make your driving..besides you only need what? 2 of them..

    law suits..well thats a whole nother deal

    or go junk yard hunting
     

  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Take a look at those forward control van/box trucks used for bread/potato chips.

    I am thinking I saw a GM one in a yard cut up, and I saw a u-joint on the steering. I do not recall if it unbolts from both ends like you want.
     
  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,329

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is not the place that you want to save a few dollars. If you could somehow sequester the potential risk of doing this to yourself, then I would not have a problem with it; however, you can't. You may be putting yourself, your passengers, and innocent bystanders in risk of peril as well.

    Do this for a customer, and they have a problem, and you risk ruining the rest of your life financially, over a ±$50 part.

    Life is precious.
     
  7. Most all of the OEM stuff will have at least one end welded on. After all, they KNOW what they are going to be used for....

    Look for something that has about a 3/4" round shaft. I build this stuff all the time using 3/4"X.120 wall DOM tubing. The trick is to turn down the stock shaft in a lathe, insert and TIG weld to the tube. Keep the welds away from the u-joints and use plug welds in addition to the bead. NOT the place to be figuring out how to weld...

    For donors I've used everything from Buick to early Datsun Z-car (great for intermediate shafts) to BMWs to Suzuki Samurai. I'd stay away from the aluminum OEM u-joints. Make sure you use a "capture" type cross or pinch bolt (goes through a notch in the shaft). I've seen more failures from u-joint set screws coming loose than I have from broken welds... Just my $.02.
     
  8. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    I think $50 is a fair price for what you are asking them to do. Tires cost more, and only last a few years. .02
     
  9. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    i got a 3/4-36x3/4DD Borg..usually goes for $92.60..stainless..

    just sitting here..never gonna use it, its never been on anything..talk to me
     
  10. Slick's Speed Shop
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 19

    Slick's Speed Shop
    Member

    Thanks everyone for the info I am recieving. I just want to make sure no one gets the impression that I am working on a customer's car. This is for my own project and for my own interests.

    Thanks,
    Todd
     
  11. I LOL'ed

    As if $100 blows the budget on a build, I'm in stitches over here :D
     
  12. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,810

    Fogger
    Member

    As stated above, the set screw/jam nut attachment on the Borgeson have failed due to improper installation. A detent must be drilled into the steering shaft to index the set screw and Loktite applied to the set screw and jam nut. I use steering u-joints from a Porsche 914. They clamp onto a 3/4"-36 splined shaft and imo are must safer than any after market unit.
     
  13. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    How's $40 each?
    Check your Speedway catalog....
     
  14. pcterm2
    Joined: Aug 25, 2009
    Posts: 551

    pcterm2
    Member

    if you can find one of these and do some measuring it might be a little cheaper
    Rockwell CPL6R30
    GM 3918866
    Flx 97-9714-00165
    Gillig 82-02696-000
    by the way these are steering joints
     
  15. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,958

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Chevy Astro Van
     
  16. I've never had much luck with junkyard u-joints. See if you can find some cheaper plain steel u-joints, just heed the above warnings about the proper use of set screws!
     
  17. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Whatever on your own, or a customer's...........;

    Yep; Just because an aftermarket supply that sells hot rod parts , that don't make them better than some OEM. If you can find one at a junk yard cheap why not? I would'nt weld a u-joint to the shaft, I'd use the same technique for mounting that was used on the vehicle you cop it from, would most likely be DD or splined.
     
  18. Antny
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,071

    Antny
    BANNED
    from Noo Yawk

    Swap meets.
     
  19. barry wny
    Joined: Dec 31, 2009
    Posts: 451

    barry wny
    Member

    Speedway & Tractor Supply bearings
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    I learned a long time ago, when it comes to steering, brakes and cooling buy the best.
     
  21. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,104

    Canuck
    Member

    Second on the Astro van.

    Shaft about 12" long, U joint on one end splined for GM box, other end is 3/4" DD. Vibration coupling in between with a bit of a slide area in case of a accident.

    Should pass any government inspection, as engineered by GM for a vehicle that is heavier than most of our cars and works under more extreme angles in it's original home.

    Cnuck
     
  22. how often does that work out???
     
  23. onlychevrolets
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 2,307

    onlychevrolets
    Member

    pinching pennys on steering or brakes ....not me
     
  24. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Every time the builder elects to do it that way.
     
  25. CANUCK - Anymore info on the Astro Van U-Joint...year(s), part number, etc?...

    BARRY WNY - Same thing...any part numbers/descriptions for the TSC parts?...
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2010
  26. Take a look at european cars.......I got a nice one (compact) from a Saab or Volvo or something like that. Double D style, worked great.
     
  27. greaseguns
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 135

    greaseguns
    Member

    The guy was asking about OEM joints and all he gets is a bunch of sermons ! OK you guys have an extra 100 bucks, some of us dont !!
     
  28. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    when you put together a poorly thought out steering with whatever cheap parts you can find that does not make it safe. so you go out and crash if the steering fails to bad... but when you hurt someone else or your family thats tragic..... If you can't afford a 100 dollars for safe steering when you are building a car you probably shouldn't be building one.......
     
  29. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    If you believe what you just said, you certainly shouldn't be building one.......It's poor thinking to presume that. ....

    How much I pay for a part hasn't got a fuckin' thing to do with whether it's safe or not.

    .
     

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