Technical steering u-joint questions

...I need some help and answers. I tried searching and was not able to find the answers. I have a double d u-joint for the steering shaft. It has 2 short screws and 2 long screws all 4 have nuts on each. the question is the 2 long screws fit the flat area of the d d shaft and stick out of the u-joint.... is the steering shaft supposed to be drilled through so the longer screws go through the shaft???... I was told not to drill through the shaft it causes the shaft to become weak. thanks for any help. miller

 

Not sure why the extra long set screws or extra nuts but no need to do more than spot or "dimple drill" the shaft, that will help keep the setscrews located.
Make sure to put a drop of "small screw" threadlocker on the set screws also.

 

Depends on who's u joint and how they made it & maybe what country too.

The short screw would fit on the round side and the longer one on the flat of the D. The jamb nuts are important and the drill dimples are important too.

Post up some pics and you'll get better answering and advice

 

They give you the longer screws to go into the "dimples" you will drill in the flat of the shaft. Follow DDD's advice and you will be fine.

 

heres how I approach this I sacrifice one grub screw and get it drilled right through with a small bit on a lathe .when its in the u joint I can accurately drill a dimple in the shaft.then drill a slightly larger dimple for the grub screw on a bench drill.very accurate with a minimum amount of drilling.use locktite for final assembly of course.drilling more than a dimple will weaken the shaft.

 

..this is the u-joint I am asking about. thanks miller

 

I think they just give you opinions. Go to ace and get a couple of shorter ones. Are drill deeper and use longer. But use some lock tight! Doing NSRA inspections ive found this a point where you find some slack and loose connections. Be sure you drill the dimples.

 

fuck sakes those are way too long,like 325w says get shorter ones same length as the short ones

 

..thanks to all for the help..to make this work and be safe it appears that 2 smaller screws are needed and do not drill holes through the shaft.. thanks for the replies miller

 

Double fucks sake.
The pict tell the story there

 

The only thing I can think as to why the long setscrews is they just didn't have enough short ones in stock to fulfill orders.

 

Found some aftermarket steering columns have tubular DD ends which have a hole in one side, the long set screw threads into the u-joint and passes thru the hole and locks the opposite side of the column shaft tight against the inside of the U-joint (instead of possibly compressing the tubular column shaft end). Confusing description or what.

If your column's shaft is solid, get more short set screws.

 

What Rich B Said...

The longer screws are for use if your steering column has a tube steering shaft. They usually have a hole in the tube for you to bolt through, or you need to drill one and bottom the screw out on the inside of the tube.

The shorter screws are for if your steering column has a solid steering shaft.

I also included a picture to show what they mean by "drill a dimple" into your shaft for the set screw the rest into.

 

I wouldn't use that tube steering shaft on a golf cart ,certainly not in a car

 

I always just swap out the long ones for shorter ones, as sometimes in tight clearance situations they will be a problem. Just need to be long enough for the thin jam nut to have a full thread.

 

Many cars on the road today have hollow tube shaft's,been using them for year's , why is it a problem?

 

..Once again thanks for the info and replies. I will get shorter screws and drill for the dimples. thanks miller

 

mmmm, golf. Speaking of which, I've played Mount Juliet, is that in your neck of the woods @nunattax ?

 

I dont Know

 

not really that's 21/2 hours away in Kilkenny ..i did spend most of my teen years on the local golf club,fishing mostly and regularly asked to leave if that'counts.(I wasn't a member)

 

I subbose I don't have a problem with the hollow steerihg shaft as such I just don't like the ends looks very made in china to me.id prefer a solid machined piece welded to the ends.

 

No need to buy new parts. Just cut it shorter with an angle grinder.

 

Best to get the right size set screws. If you cut them off; you lose the cup end which is designed to dig in and lock.

 

That conical end with locking serrations is one of those details that seem mundane and dismissible. They must be there for no apparent reason

 

Don’t forget to “clock” both joints

 

when my stering is assembled there were splines still showing.mick at ducafe turned up some alloy covers.they will be held in place with a dab of mastic and painted satin black [
lock nuts are loose and not locktited yet