Steering mess

I started a post already but it's going sideways, so maybe I should have started at the beginning. Here are a few pictures of what I'm working with. I have a 3" dropped axle, it and the original brakes appear to have been rebuilt. The steering arms etc look to be an abortion of sorts. It has tie rod end drops and the cross arm scares me. I'm going to pull the original box and check it and adjust. Some one else has been there already and all the bolts were very loose. I'll keep it if it works well. I really would like to install a power steering box if the original is trashed. I need to fix the spiders nest of arms here. If I need to replace the box, should a look for something that is oriented the same? Or, can I use a left side *drivers side* steer arm on the top of the backing plate and use a power box where the pitman arm is out through the frame moving front to rear and can anyone help with what fits. What I have looks more than dangerous...

 

That's the scariest crap I have ever seen! HRP

 

My opinion, but depending on final ride height:

I would scrap those extensions that are bolted to the steering arms

then see if a tie rod can go OVER the springs, if you retaper the tops of the holes in the stock steering arms. Many people do the reverse taper like that; you just get the angled reamer and go halfway down.


So, if there is a way to have the tie rod above the springs, then I'd run a straight new cross link above the passenger spring. What you are doing is raising the steering link by going over. Then a GM car 605 PS box just might have enough drop on it's many different pitman arms, to get a good straight, horizontal line to the passenger side steering arm.

There could be issues on where the oil pan will be, and how much room is left when the motor pulls the nose down. If there is still room with those two things, I think it could work well

 

Wow

 

What F&J said is the solution. Just install the tie rod and steering arm from the top after you retaper the holes. Then once that is done align the pitman arm so it is fairly straight with the spindle arms, Like bend it, then bend the drag link so it is straight and you should be good to go.

 

I just realized this is a 46-47 Ford axle. You can heat and bend the steering arms and make everything work. The spindle arms bend just like the 37-41 or the 42-48 car when using a dropped axle.

www.droppedaxles.com

 

Here is a before and after of bending the steering arms like you need to do. I know this is a 37-41 spindle but the 42-48 bend the same way.

www.droppedaxles.com

 

When I did mine I went for the re-taper and over the top. With the small block Ford in mine everything cleared pretty well. Comically, those tie rod drops are actually a product available from places like Speedway and CCP! I wouldn't use them on a bet personally, and I fear they might have had to drill the taper out of your spindles to bolt them on. If that is the case, cut the arms odd and buy a pair of dropped arms from Speedway, So-Cal, Pete and Jakes, etc. Lot's easier than it seems.

Just as an aside, if you run a fairly regular front tire size, and keep that pretty stock steering wheel, I can't think of one reason in this world why you would want power steering.

 

The 46-47 already has the taper so the draglink from the steering box goes on top of the steering arms. When using those drop blocks they did not drill out the the hole. The taper should be in the steering arm yet. I would keep the stock steering arms. They are a lot better then the aftermarket.

 

You have a mess, but a fixable mess. You can bend the arms for clearance, or buy new arms. You could also remove the drag link and tie rod, and drill the tapered holes out to accept regular bolts and a heim end tie rod and drag link. Heims would allow the drag link to be located on top of the steering arm, or a 2nd flat bar arm added to the top of the spindle if need be to get the drag link level and clear things.
As for the steering box, you don't need an exact replacement, nor a steering box in the same location or with the arm in the same direction. If you find a box you like the arm can be swapped 180 degrees to work as needed, if you file the key out of the arm. I've reworked several pitman arms to swap them 180, and it's very easy to remove the key notch. Which way the arm needs to go depends on where you mount the steering box, so place it where it clears, and ensure the end of the arm is lined up with the opposite side end bracket, then figure out where to attach the arm to get the drag link level.

 

I think you have the wrong pitman arm for a 42-47....

 

Hey, darkk;

Again, F&J has it correct. & it's the easiest, cheapest, fastest, & best way to fix the mess.
If the holes have been drilled out, add needlouvers' advice.

Following these guys' advice will leave you happy & safe.

Marcus...