Hot Rods Started spec'ing out parts

This is the last outward change for awhile as the boxing plates are on their way and I'll be concentrating on suspension and drivetrain.
It was just screaming for a dropped headlight bar (kinda standard equip on a coupe I guess). This is how it'll look when it rolls again....

 

Can't pull the body until the old rear is gone and I have room to move, so I thought I's sharpen my skills at drilling square holes.
The cavity at the cowl foot is perfect for the starter relay as the battery will be mounted on the frame just behind the bellhousing. Wiring into the cabin will be hidden, and the only cable that will be visible is a couple inches of the cable from the relay to the starter. 2 holes were drilled to mount the relay, and they were filed square for the carriage bolts. I'll be tacking them in place, but they won't be the issue with the floor that hex bolts would be. The floor panel will be removable for easy access to the master cylinder, battery, and relay.

 

Uh oh......

 

First test fit. Time to break out the plasma cutter and trim the firewall to clear the engine.

 

I'll start by cutting here.....


Presto.....

 

2nd test fit. The firewall cutout is close enough to see what the driveline angle will look like, and how much setback I need. Next cut will be about 1-3/4" higher to clear the rockers with about a 3" deep recess.

 

Just about ready to pull the body and get on the frame!
Block huggers fit perfectly



Plenty of room for a 16" Spal

The view from the inside. Oughta be fun fitting the steering column....

 

I've had a little downtime as I'm waiting on the axles and brake kit from Dutchman. Been nice heading to the river and getting a little time out on the water and generally screwing around. The other side of screwing around is spending time surfing the 'net and seeing all the stuff you just HAVE to have.
It could be worse..... I've spent more than the $49 on a meal, so......

 

Brown came today


Bought the brake kit along with the axles so I wouldn't have any stupid compatibility issues. Didn't


Stuffed it in to check the width.



It's tight, but should give me the 3" of travel on each side without hitting

 

Killer deal on a Walker radiator for the A. Woulda been even better if Fedex hadn't ventilated the box and stuffed the core.

 

Getting back oin the bench seat to get that done and move on.
Here are the tracks mocked up on the frame



I removed the back from the cushion, then the upholstery, foam, and springs/listing wires. The old mounting brackets were cut off, as well as the baby seat anchors. Don't think I'll be needing those.


The new mounting plates are 1/4" cold rolled steel, so after a little prep I'll weld them on and reassemble. The reason it took so long to get to this point was this seat cushion is thin and if it's raised up I lose valuable headroom. Unless I wanted a metal plate right under my ass, I needed to find the widest point on the seat frame while still being able to weld the mounting channel to the subrails. The only way to do both was use a "Z" seat mount to offset both mounting points. This is just used for mock up as it made getting the mounting points and recline angle easy. I'll be making a seat base incorporating the Z, angle, and a skirt to hide the electronics beind and mount all the switches. The only thing that'll be on the dash is a set of NOS Sun gauges.... in-dash tach, speedo, fuel gauge, oil pressure, water temp, and volt gauge.

 

Got the ladders from Cory at Rjay's today. Excellent workmanship and exactly the look I'm after.

 

Looking like a pretty nice street rod

 

Spent a few hours with a saw and a few 2x4's (looks bigger in the pic than it really is). I'll be able to work the body on the dolly while doing the frame work, so once the body's off, it's on!

 

Labor Day..... it's when you recruit "labor" to put the body on the dolly

 

Done about as much damage as I can do, but at least it's titled with the original VIN stamping as a 1931 Ford Coupe. Time to track down a decent sand blaster and get going on the frame.

 

Frame's out being blasted, so turned to smaller details. This 9" had the rear brake line/block with the long breather bolt. I need the space on top of the axle for travel, so am using this style that mounts with a bracket.


Since the old bolt won't work now, I needed to find a bolt that would mount the bracket as well as vent the housing. Came up short on off-the-shelf offerings, so decided to make one. Used a 7/16-20 bolt, drilled a 1/8" thru hole, then drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT for a generic housing vent. Cost $0.00

 

Oh, and after mounting the replacement rear brake hose/block I wasn't happy with it, so back to the catalogs. I found one that mounts to the housing studs, tucks neatly in, and will not interfere with suspension travel. Look for one from a 1972 Ranchero.....

 

Spent some quality time yesterday with a grinder and the front x-member rivets. Used all thread before going at it to keep the rail spacing, and got the original out after only 1/2 hour or so. Not a big deal.... actually took longer to fit the new SoCal dropped x-member than to remove the original.


In case you had read this x-member was a "bolt-in" on an "A" frame, this shows rather clearly it isn't except on a '32 frame. The holes DO work well for plug welds though.

 

Got highly motivated and knocked out a few things. The trans and engine got married and fit like they were made for each other. Pulled out the cherry picker and put them in position on the frame to check position and start documenting driveline angle, frame rake, and suspension drop with the full weight on it. Winding up about 2" lower in the front (before settling) which tucks the tires up into the fenders about 3/4" and still leaves plenty of room for travel and turning.

 

I was going to use the dropped crossmember on the ground in pic 1 for the trans mount, but after putting the eng/trans in position, I have a better idea. I'm going to modify the front of the center crossmember to clear the tailshaft housing, then weld the flange back on for a factory appearance. Box the member, then make a center drop out for the rear trans mount. It just looks too right to cut out and replace with a tube piece just 'cuz it's easier.

 

Last big step before boxing.... ladder x-member and ladder bar layout.

 

To get going on boxing, I have to do a few other things first. To mount the ladder x-member, I need to box the center x-member (part of an "H" reinforcement I'm incorporating). To box the center x-member, I need to fill holes (since the plate is going through one of the holes). It'll all make sense soon.
It's always something....

 

This will show a bit better how the x-member will be boxed (but slid inside the x-member). The plate was bent and will welded in where the cut marks in the previous photo are. The backside doesn't need to be cut and will remain 4" high retaining it's strength. With the bottom of the member boxed in, it'll be strong as hell.

 

What I'm doing must have seemed a bit obscure to this point, but got the x-member cut out and the plate fitted up. This seems like a natural modification for a stock frame, but haven't seen anything like it in any searches.



The back is still uncut, and after it's all welded in and boxed it'll take a whole lot more than a 302 to twist it.

 

A couple hours working on boxing plates would have been a LOT more without a plasma cutter.
Here's the bottom view of how the stock center x-member will be boxed. I'll be picking up some 1-3/4 tube this weekend to finish fitting up what will ultimately come out looking like a "HK" member. Finish cutting and welding will happen when I flip the frame over.

 

I realize that it may be possible to make a stronger center x-member by cutting out the original and welding in a new one, I can get around one strength issue with a minor addition.
By cutting the center of the member to make clearance for the tailshaft, I have weakened it by reducing the cross-section. Boxing will add to the torsional rigidity, but I still have created essentially a 1x4" tube in the center. Not cutting the back of the member helped retain much of the strength, but I'd feel more comfortable adding a bit more. The solution is as easy as adding a 1/4" thick rib in the middle (inside, not outside like it looks like in the pic) before the center plate is welded in.

 

Located the x-member and made the hole saw pay for itself. Need to notch the pieces, then drill the boxing plates. Once that's done I'll be bending up more tube from the ladder member back to the plates right at the running board brace. That'll add more strength to the ladder member as well as make the running boards more rigid. Light weight, and strong is what I'm after. Right now I'm saying I won't be putting much HP to it, but I know myself.... that could very well change in the future.

 

Notched the tubes and took a pic of the back side, so maybe it's a bit clearer. My "HongKong" crossmember will take shape soon and will move a little faster now......

 

Cut, grind weld, drill...... one side fitted up.....