Hot Rods Started spec'ing out parts

Looks GREAT.

 

Called Rebel this morning and have a pair of 15x8 Polished Sprint Tricks coming. I've had eith real mag Sprints or decent knockoffs on everything from my muscle cars to boat trailers for years and just love the look. My biggest concern is how they fit the rear so if they fit well I'll get the fronts coming. Don't tell the wife.......

 

A sloppy comparison of the 2 looks

 

Big day today. The body goes back on for the last time in 2 hours and 38 minutes, then it's time to wrap it up..... WIFI.... Wire It & Fire It. Hoping to light it off on the 4th but there's a lot of small stuff to do before that and it'd be stupid to rush it at this stage.

 

Good day and so close now I can taste it.

 

That 4th shot reminds me I have to Bob the fenders once it's in the road

 

FORD power on the FORTH sounds like a good combo.

 

A tad tight but everything clears. Just need to fit the column shift rod and mill down the jam nut and the column's done.

 

No pics tonite, it all looks the same but making progress. Finished fabbing the fuel line for the rear frame rail to the pump and line from the tank to rear rail so other than putting on clamps the fuel system's done.
Finished the column shift linkage so it has gears now.
Made up the accelerator rod so there's a throttle too. Searching like crazy for a suitable throttle rod boot to give it a finished look, but there's time for that.
Wiring's gonna start here real quick, then finish paint on the tank/dash and final assembly. Real tempting to cut corners just to hear it, but I'm trying to be good......

 

Figured out why I had an annoying clunk in the steering....... never tightened down the steering hub..... dumbass.
Body dolley is up for sale for cost of materials and to make a little room. Ad in classifieds.

 

More baby steps. Filled the engine with oil, spun the oil pump to circulate it and leak checked. Filled the trans and leak checked that as well (I HATE leaks). Pulled the original fuel tank to start wiring and got the ignition switch, gauge power feeds and gauge grounds done. Soldering and heat shrinking all the connections so it doesn't go real fast. Pics tonite including the new rear wheels .

 

Here's a little preview. Almost looks "traditional" huh?

 

And a little wiring.... lots more to do.

 

Dash lighting circuit done. Next......

 

OK, it's confession time. As it turns out I rushed painting the firewall to get the body back on the frame. I'm using Molex electrical connectors and wanted to put a panel connector in the top of the firewall recess so the engine harness would go into the passenger compartment being relatively hidden. Problem is, the connector requires I create the hole as in pic #1..... in a now painted panel. Now this is the horizontal part of the recess, but i'm still kinda pissed at myself now having to drill/cut through fresh paint.
Pretty sure I can touch up the edges and nobody else will ever see it. Plenty of sharp bits and body saw blades will be required, but it'll be kinda cool if I pull it off well.

 

So why all the hassle for a connector? Well, here's why though some may think it was a waste of time. It'll be even clearer when the tank is wired and in place, but this'll give a little insight to how my brain works.
After drilling, and a ton of filing the hole is ready for the connector.

Fits nice and snug

Now you can see (or hopefully not) how hidden the connector is.

The engine harness is soldered and fitted (still needs to be wrapped). After wrapping should be virtually invisible.

 

Nice job! I had a set of those Rebel wheels, good choice.

 

Finished the engine harness and wrapped it with cloth tape.
Pulled wires and started soldering connectors for the stop and turn circuits and fuel sender lead.
Getting there one wire at a time.....

 

Redoing my + battery cable size and layout. Started fitting it up to the relay and am not comfortable with running 00ga wire so close to a body seam. Going with 2ga from the starter/alt terminal to the battery and 8ga to the + terminal feeding the fuse block. Cleaner & safer layout is a win/win.

 

Minor signs of life. Damn, those fenders need to be bobbed......

 

Took the weekend off but haven't been dragging ass. I'm a little slow at wiring 'cuz I like things a certain way.
With the engine harness done, I moved to the rear harness. Soldered the taillight connectors and laid out the wiring up to the cowl. Wires going through the floor in grommets are brake light switch and fuel pump. It is wrapped with cloth tape as all will be with just the 9 pin connector left before I move on to the front chassis harness (lights, fan, horn). When that is complete up into the cowl it's time to finish wiring the tank, blow it apart for paint and reassemble to fire it.

 

Nice work.

 

Though it's working out very well for me in this application, there's something people should know if they are considering using this style contact switch. The connection to the studs is by using a female pin connector. They are notorious for coming off after time as only friction holds them on the stud. I took the metal sleeves from the middle of a crimp on but connector, put it over the stud and used pliers to compress the sleeve over the threads of the stud effectively threading them. I soldered the wire leads onto the other end, threaded them back on the studs and put shrink tube on to insulate them from each other. Now it's a nice secure connection that won't pull off.

 

Rear tires coming today, we'll see what the new wheels look like on the car tomorrow

 

A little diversion from electrical. The tires came today, so beat myself up mounting one by hand to check out the look. 30 minute wheel change to take it from street rod to hot rod. Fronts should be here in a week or two. Going a bit taller on the front tires to get a bit of axle clearance.

 

For those holes you had to cut for the Molex connectors, go online to Mouser Electronics, the have cutting dies specially made for panel mounted connectors. Not cheap, but would save time and worry about damaging the paint on the panel. Makes a professional looking hole.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Made good progress on the front chassis harness today. Should be able to finish it tomorrow, so then it's all fuel tank.

 

Front chassis harness is 90% done. Threw a fender and the headlights on to make sure the headlight and turn signal wire routing is correct. Was short a pair of 2 circuit connectors for the turn/park lamps, but now I can knock out the tank wiring while I'm waiting for the connectors. The new front wheels should be ready in a week or so, so it should be on the road soon.......

 

Front wheels are ready for pick up and ordered the front tires this morning. Adding 1" of sidewall (2" to overall diameter) over the tires on the spokes (185/55r15). The extra inch of clearance for the front axle will be welcomed.

 

Brought the front wheels home today and tires will be here tomorrow. Now the age old question (and about the only time I play the "traditional" card).......push in wheel caps or exposed hub and bearing caps? When I'm looking for an older look I go back to my youth and get ahold of chrome bearing caps and nothing else.
Opinions?