Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Started spec'ing out parts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mr T body, Oct 11, 2012.

  1. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Been measuring to get an idea where the build will go and hit a minor bump. It's a '31 coupe (body and frame), full-fendered that'll run bigs and littles with front discs. The front will get a 4" drop I-beam axle, but I've seen 46 & 48" width axles available. Fenderless it wouldn't be as big of an issue, but I don't want the tires too far outboard in the fenders. I haven't seen much difference in backspacing on 15x6 wheels and I know that will be a factor (as well as the discs to an extent), but which width axle seems to fit best on full fendered A's?
     
  2. This is a 46" 4 inch dropped Super Bell from Posies with a super slide spring with the second leaf from the top removed. When I ordered the front end he asked if it was hi-boy or full fendered. When I said fenders he said 46". He was right on. 15X5 inch wheels w/standard backspace and GM disc brakes. 29 Roadster.
     

    Attached Files:

    ccain and kidcampbell71 like this.
  3. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    The reason 46 inchers ever came about was for the purpose of tucking the tires under the fenders when you drop the car down low. That is what you want.

    Don
     
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,080

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So, a 47 inch axle with 16 inch 35 wires on drums is going to move the wheels out too far?

    Or will drums keep things inside the magic box?
     

  5. The 46" is what I used,,keeps the tires tucked in with room to turn wthout excessive scrubbing. HRP
     
  6. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I saved a pic of your car previously. Exactly the stance I'm after. Perfect.
     
  7. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I've been picking up a few pieces here and there, and today was a Caravan bench seat to replace the original. This one is out of a 2001, and as a few threads here suggested it fits the coupe like a glove. It may not be the look some want, but damn this thing is comfortable. Don't worry, it'll be re-upholstered more appropriately at a later date.
    It was first fitted with the package tray installed and being 6'2" I needed a bit more legroom. After removing the package tray, there is more than enough room. Now that I know where it'll go, the seat riser can come out, and the floor can be replaced with steel. Next buy is some off the shelf seat tracks and adapt them.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    One more piece of the puzzle came in today.... Cragar 45 spoke 15X6 chrome wires for the front. I'm kind of channeling a Lil John feel for this car with big and little chrome wires with a fair amount of rubber rake.
    Looks like the 15x8.5 US Indys I got for the rear will go up for sale as I try to find a pair of 15x8 Cragar or Truspokes for the rear.
    Figured out the seat mounting issue, too. I'll have to go with a Howell's flat floor under the seat, and will be bending up a pair of seat brackets to set the height and seat angle. Throw a set of adjustable seat tracks on, and weld a couple mounting tabs on the Caravan seat frame for a comfy seat.
     
  9. what front brakes are you using? that can make a difference...old ford brakes are not as wide as disc brakes

    and what is the offset of the front wheels? steel wheels and mag wheels can have very different offsets
     
  10. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    New front axle will be on the way soon. Vintage Parts forged 4" drop I beam with the usual metric calipers. The wires have a 2-3/4" back spacing, so we'll see how well they clear when it's assembled. The plan is to put a set of vintage Hurst/Airheart calipers later on.
     
  11. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Axle was shipped today (my Thanksgiving time off project), and I finished detailing the wires today. Might get the new tires tomorrow..... looking to put 185/60-15's on the 15x6 wires. Not everyone's look, but it's not the first time, and I'm sure it won't be the last ;)
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  12. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Figured if the front axle is on it's way, it'd be nice to be able to put it on the ground afterwards, so tires were in order. Went a tad smaller than I planned (185/55-15) as the front will be decently slammed. The tire is the perfect fit for this wheel. Cross section puts the sidewall about 3/4" out from the rim edge, and the tread edge lays right over the bead.
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  13. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    A good eye will notice these are the dreaded unilug wheels. While I understand the issues with these in the past, I think the real problem with these are they are lug-centric (relying on lug washers to keep the wheel centered) rather than hub-centric. I'm sure rotation and wheel loads move the lugs and washers loosening them and changing the wheel center causing vibration and balance issues. I think this can be corrected by moving these wheels into 2012 and making them hub-centric. I'll be having hub centric rings custom made for the wheels/hubs which I expect will make them a viable wheel again. For a measly $35 for a set of 4, it's worth a shot.
     
  14. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I've got an idea and need some feedback on how to make it happen. The '31 will be full fendered without a front bumper. I love the look and want to run a spreader bar, but the apron below the radiator complicates matters. Drilling a clearance hole through each side of the apron is no big deal, but how can I put the apron back in place with the spreader inserted? Anyone tried this and know a trick?
     
  15. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I received the axle kit and have been trying to assemble it for a week and a half. Came to a screeching halt when I tried to bolt the calipers to the caliper brackets. The holes were drilled and tapped with the wrong spacing, so I contacted the vendor, sent a pic showing the issue. Their "tech" dept confirmed it was drilled wrong and would send out another set. I asked that the replacements be inspected as I don't need 2 sets of defective brackets. Well, guess what..... I received the replacements and they are the same. With these being production pieces, it's likely ALL their stock is wrong, so instead of this dragging out while they figure out what went wrong, I'll be returning it for a refund.

    I'm looking at the Lucky 7 axle kit, but have only read limited responses. Anyone install one? Issues, remarks?
     
  16. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Finally got the front axle on and rolled her out. Now I can get a better idea of the stance and take measurements for the 9". Gonna need taller rear tires, and gotta get the tail lower.
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 and carl.p like this.
  17. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I've determined that beer makes me spend more money on the car. Last night I had a couple beers and decided to dig into what needs to be done to hang a 9" under the rear. After measuring numerous times I found that I will have to narrow the rear no matter which width I find as I need one 53" wide. That also means running a buggy spring goes out the window, so plan B looks like coilovers and radius rods or ladder bars. I really have no problem with any of this and I'm glad I had this revelation BEFORE I started buying parts.
    Friggin' beer.....
     
  18. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,659

    31Apickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A Ford Maverick 8" is a perfect fit for a full fendered Model A. It is 55" from outside of drum.
     
  19. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Unfortunately, even a 55" wide rear won't do what I want. With the offset the rears have, I'm looking at narrowing a rear to 52". I'll know exactly what width when the old rear is removed, but that won't happen (so I can still roll it) until I find an early rounded 9".
     
  20. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    While I'm piecing together the right 9" rear, I figured it was time to get serious about mounting the seat. I've been going back and forth about whether to get rid of the package tray, or modify it, so tonight the decision was made. After removing the seat base, the seat was fitted for location and recline.
    [​IMG]
    What was bugging the crap out of me was that with the tray removed, the gap behind the seat back would look unfinished no matter what I did.
    [​IMG]
    The red lines are the cuts to be made, with the black section being discarded. The front flange will be bent around the inner cut and tacked so the tray edges wrap around the seat back. The tray is at the same height as the top of the seat back making a nicely finished look. 1" ply will be cut to reinforce the tray as well providing a nailer for new upholstery. It'll be stock looking but updated.
    [​IMG]
     
  21. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    It is way more cost effective to change the rear wheels ... than narrow a rear down a rear axle to 52 inches. :) The most narrow 9 inch is a 57/58/59 Ford rear end ... or a 77-81 Ford Granda. They measure @ 58 inches. A Maverick ( a 8 inch series rear :rolleyes: ) is 56 inches. They are NO 52 inch wide decent rear ends.

    I have a Bronco 9 inch in the rear and a 48 inch wide axle in the front.

    [​IMG]

    There is a 48 inch axle under the 3W also. But I do have a narrowed down to 56 inches 9 inch in the rear.

    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  22. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,157

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Nice build, it seems you are spending a lot of time getting exactly what you like.

    I guess it has always been a problem to me what does one mean by saying a 52 inch wide diff.

    Some folks talk about flange to flange and others talk about drum to drum measurements (there maybe others that I am unaware of) the proviso seems to get left off in the discussion as the person proposing the measurement knows in their mind what they mean but yet others generally need to take a guess at it...

     
  23. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    I could go with rear spokes with more back spacing, but it isn't the look I want. Reverse rear spokes will make the look, so though it may not be cost effective, a narrowed rear it is.
    Long term, this isn't about budget, it's a car I've had in my mind for decades. If it takes longer and costs more to make it just right, that's OK. It's about getting my hands dirty and learning new skills. You know, therapy.
    The 52" width is WMS to WMS. I won't know the actual width until the banjo is pulled and I measure with the wheels in position.
     
    Atwater Mike and charleyw like this.
  24. 52 inches wheel mounting surface to WMS? seams very narrow.... what are you using for rear wheels?
     
  25. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    15x8.5 reverse Truspokes with a 3.5" backspacing.
     
  26. Idaho/Dave
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 517

    Idaho/Dave
    Member
    from Idaho

    I know its a bling thing, but I think the wheel and tire combo would be one of the last things to buy, easier to buy the wheels to fit the car than build the car to fit the wheels.
     
  27. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    The wheels and tires are the first thing I buy. They make the look and determine the rake. I want them perfectly positioned in the fenders, so other than using spacers to compensate for the wrong width rear (which wouldn't work here anyhow) or using wheels I don't like, narrowing it is. I don't understand why I would compromise the look, for ease of hanging a rear. Narrowing is really no big deal and not much additional expense.
     
    Atwater Mike, Chucky and falcongeorge like this.
  28. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Got the brakes done on the truck and decided to get going on the tray.
    Here it is with the cuts.
    [​IMG]
    After cutting out the center, I made relief cuts for the bend.
    [​IMG]
    I'll be blasting it then tacking it before making the wood backing.
    [​IMG]
    Here it is in place (trial fit). The seat will be about an inch higher when I fab the seat brackets and replace the floor panel. It gives me 3" more legroom that I know I'll need when I set back the firewall.
    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 and tb33anda3rd like this.
  29. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,189

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    Found the early 9" I've been looking for, but requires a little road trip. Everything for this car has come from roadtrips, so I'm getting used to it. This is the next piece of the puzzle, so after it makes it home I can pull the old banjo, make whatever mods are necessary to the rear, and pull the body to begin frame work. The next couple months are the best part of a build.....:D
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  30. Derek Mitchell
    Joined: Nov 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,796

    Derek Mitchell
    Member

    Road trips are the best part in building a car. Keep it up and good luck.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.