well I picked this up a while back, been getting familiar with body hammers and welding again. it's not the prettiest thing or best platform to start with but the price was right. It's my first ground up deal, just thought I'd share it with everyone. I'm an FNG so bare with me. I'm going to keep it traditional as possible, and less "ol'skool"... just newer parts for brakes though they will be 40 ford repros, and a 70's SBC (yea yea, it was dirt cheap. it'll get something cooler when I can afford it) and it'll probably wear some patina while i drive it. Anyway, here's some pics from when i brought it home. sorry for the crappy phone pictures, it's all i got.
here's a little wish list i've put together. I'm in St. Paul, MN if anyone knows where anything i've listed is located. "historical documents" for model t ford roadster or touring. front pass. side 26-27 t touring door (or roadster if they're the same) rear end -prefer ford 8" or '57 pontiac model a front end (need axle, wishbone, spindles, springs etc) banjo rear spring, crossmember for spring any old 50-60's column and gauges grille shell (what do you have...not terribly picky on this one) 28-48 ford spindles and drum brakes first gen mustang master cylinder headlights (again not picky, as long as they are round and match) thanks a million! email me at <!-- e -->[email protected]
yea, yours is a whole lot classier than mine will be. that's just the photo the seller provided. i need two more of those wheels.
Looks very cool...welcome to the HAMB...Im a FNG and ST Paul guy myself...Ill watch for the stuff your looking for Regards, Bill Bergeron MSRA# 47
Bill, I appreciate an extra set of eyes, especially experienced ones. I really need a rear end and rear crossmember to house the rear spring.
so I picked up a 56 pontiac rear, 37 plymouth front axle, and the old man found me a grille shell (need help ID'ing...was told it was a 28) so here's some pics. I'm working on a getting settling in to the new place and getting tools, so that's slowing me down. the last tenant was nice enough to leave a t350 with a broken case, a bucket of sparkly oil, and 5 batteries (and counting)....ah, the joy of renting. enjoy!
Cool project. I am going to start a modified T project here sometime this summer I hope. Can't wait to see more as you go.
So a little status update... i noticed there have been a few views here. I bought the house i was renting, now I have my own garage with a future hot rod in it. how many 23 year olds can say that on bicycle mechanic wages? I'm starting not to like the idea of the 37 plymouth axle since I'm not fond of the look of hair pins. meanwhile, when thinking about selling it, I found this pic from minnesota dragways. my dad ran a bantam bodied altered there, and something about the picture of this modified T at that same track felt good. With any luck, more update pics will come. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Mate buying that house at your age will set you up for life, dont be afraid to buy more when the time is right either. Looks like you are making great progress.
Way to go with the '36 axles. A few hints from doing my first one. There will be a ratio stamped on the bottom side of the center section near the tube flange, will indicate tooth number and therefore ratio. I understand the '36 drums have issues they will not work with hydraulics, maybe that can be machined, I have plenty so haven't had to try. Are you shure it is a square shaft?, or if it's cable brakes can be '37-8 and '39-48 brakes will bolt on. Also if high mileage, maybe the drums could have been replaced... Whatever, mock it up with wrong drums and look for 37-9 drums and make that swap later. I have the 3.78 gears and 700 (stock 4" wheels widened 2") tires. The better steering box design started in '37, I used the stock cross steering and it drives and handles perfectly. Agian, look for any after '36 steering gear. Too much hassle IMO to use a straight column and get it right and make exhaust & seating right, put a joint in it. Constantly mock-up, I used a bare block & trans case for construction because I could carry it, but I also set a full dressed engine/trans on it occasionally to check actual height, clearance Sit in the mock-up a while, (2 beers), does it hurt? Then why build in a mistake? I made mine longer, legs can be straight, sides armpit height, it's comfortable. I have early& late back plates, but they are common. When you get brakes, make sure you get all the linkage for the park brake and the grease catchers. The tin grease catchers are a different shape for mechanical and hydraulic. Here is a link to some pics of my progress. http://s845.photobucket.com/albums/ab12/barrylm/
yea they have the square shaft on the end...my front drums are ribbed, as are one of my rears...could these be lincoln drums? the guy I bought them from said they came from a 36 pickup, there is absolutely no pitting, and nice primer on everything.
I have a pile of wide 5's and some are ribbed, maybe the early ones. There are also one piece drum/hub, two piece, and spoked "rocky mountian" hubs, for better cooling (?). Lincolin would be '39 only and already have hydraulic, but no one know's for sure if a repair had drums replaced. For kicks after work tonight I will pull a hub off a '36 rearend I have and slap some hydraulic brakes on it and see what happens with the hub fit, have always been curious.
getting some stuff done! i have front suspension, and i dropped a motor in for mock up. turns out my "running motor" is junk from sitting too long. but i do have a line another 283 that i can hear run. gotta do a little slicing and dicing with the headers to make em look right. As of right now they stick our further than the front wheels. I think I'm going to chop em at a 45* a few inches before the collector and shove some motorcycle bafffles in the tubes and run it. contemplating that or just building some belly button lakes pipes to go with my belly button motor. I've been a drummer my whole life I'm all ready deaf... looking forward to summer!
I like the way you mounted your headlights. I was thinking of doing something similar only with rebar...
The warm air is coming, buddy! Looking forward to hangin out, hittin swaps and helpin each other out. Keep it up.
Possible change of direction, the wife has been asking where stuff would go incase of a road trip. She doesnte really seem keen on wearing two pair of under wear and turning them inside out and rotating, so that got me thinking coupester (coupified?) Oh and it's getting a chev straight six with three deuces now. Any idea where I can get cheap mega phones to make a lakes pipe? Kinda like this :
Thanks for the tip on the stinger pipes. Still trying to figure out why my pic from photo bucket are right side up on my computer but upside down on my phone...sorry for that I just picked up a part time job at the local parts store-anyone have a good source for master cylinders/pedal setup for drum/drum? I'd be ok with making a pedal too. On the coupester thing-it won't look right, will it? At least with the modified, my touring 1/2 won't trying to be something it's not. College is being college and stealing all my free time, but I'm crossing my fingers to bring my engine home this weekend and hopefully get the rear end in.
Motor. Gonna fab up some mounts this weekend. Looking for a Rochester b carb to eliminate that middle one and have a matched set of three. I figure if I can't make the three turds work in unison I'll just dummy the outers and look for something else not vacuum operated. It has some funky home brewed progressive linkage on it, but it looks pretty shady and uses someone's old dog-tag ball type chain to set when the outers come on. On the bright side there's enough hardware there to do something else. Again sorry for the shitty cell phone pics, and if someone could tell me why the pics show up sideways on the phone but not on the desktop that would be great.
Finally got motor mounts done after finishing up a hellish week of finals and two jobs. F that. Oh and I got another 2b carb. Three aces-should be fun. On to my next dilemma: I have a speedway trans member, but I don't want to mount my 36 bones off of it since it's too far back from the driveshaft yoke. So I cut it down with the intention of making a sort of K member to both support the bones and to bolt to the trans. The problem is that the bolt in tube ends up below the frame rails on my already low car. I want the K member to be flat in order to support the floors. I know it can be done, I just worry about it taking a bunch of steel and thus looking like hell. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I'm not opposed to completely ditching this whole idea for something better. I just can't see it yet. Pete
Got the rear end tacked in tonight. It rolls! Waiting on heims and brackets for my 36 radius rods. I'm gonna have a hard time sleeping tonight waiting for the sun to come out! The body's way too high yet, some of my temp bracing for the rear is in the way and I need to make the hole in the firewall bigger and channel it 3". I sat in it and its looking like I'm going to have plenty of room! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's a side shot if the last mock up with the wheelbase at 114" with speedway spring brackets in front of the axle. Thought I would save some time and buy those Here it is after I put the spring on top on the rear axle, which corrected the rake and tucked the back end up a bit, although the body sits on it funny right now. once the body get channeled it should be at least CLOSE to what i had in mind. I'm learning that home made brackets, etc are well worth the extra time... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
