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Customs stance and wheel size

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by FAKKY, Jun 18, 2017.

  1. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    [​IMG]


    Axle swaps at front and back......

    Trying to work out

    1) stance. I put the axle under the springs like stock as I don't want to C notch the frame ... However starting to worry to much of a rake .... How can you tell before weight added and tires added ?

    2) wheel and tire size. Mainly due to how rear wheels will fit with total size and offset given how they tuck under fenders. Was really just going to measure width of clearance from middle of wheel to inner fender and same again to outer fender. Then that will give mqx clearance/width .....

    Then difference in two will be offset.

    Not sure how else to be more accurate ..... As going to need some room to get wheels and tires in ........

    Trying to not spend $500 on tires and wheels to find out they won't fit. No idea in front till sheet metal goes back on.
     
  2. Did you take any pictures or measurements *before* moving things around?

    I have a spreadsheet that will simplify your tire/wheel/axle width clearance calculations. Unfortunately, The HAMB prevents me from attaching excel spreadsheets to threads or to messages. Message me your email address and I'll email it to you.
     
    TagMan likes this.
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,071

    squirrel
    Member

    Are you gonna drive it?

    Are you gonna put stuff in it, then drive it?

    [​IMG]

    this pic is with stuff inside, several hundred pounds...makes it sit a bit lower. And reduced the rake some.

    I have 3-4 inches of rear suspension down travel when it's not loaded. no notches, original rear springs under frame (using front spring hangers), axle over springs.

    There's no way you're going to be able to figure out the final height, until you get the truck completely built, with every part on it. I ended up changing front springs after I finally got the thing totally done, it sat a bit too low. And the rear ended up wanting overload shocks (the kind with the coil spring around them), it worked ok without a load, but too low with weight in it.
     
  4. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Planning to mainly DD it.
    Just prefer to get it up and running sooner than axle flip and c notch it . .. even if I have to do that after.

    However if it's going to be crazy rake ... Or even undrivable ..... No point ..... Just not sure how to tell except

    A) jack rear up until rear comes off frame then that would be some where near natural ride height

    B) put some tires on it ... Lol

    But obviously won't have engine in front

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,071

    squirrel
    Member

    The rear sits up pretty high with the stock suspension design. If you flip it, then it gets too low. That's why I relocated my springs down then put the axle on top of them.
     
  6. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Thanks.
    I jacked it up and the stance appears doable but teh springs really flatten out and not much clearance (same as when I got it).

    I think I might be able to get away with kit for now then either do something like you said (move perches) and a new springs and shocks or even airbags.

    I measured the WMS center and got roughly 7inches clearance frontside and 5.5 inches clearance backside ...... so allowing a gap ..... think I should probably go with a 9" wheel ......and a slight offset to push to frontside say 15mm.
     
  7. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Got a pic of where you relocated your perches ? Simple enough ?
     
  8. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Also (example below)

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Cragar/260/#3987712/10002/-1

    This says has teh following config.

    • Size: 16'' x 7''
    • Bolt Circle: 5 x 4-1/2''
    • Rear Spacing: 4''
    • Offset: 0mm

    I thought 0mm offset on a 7" wheel would mean that both the front and rear each had 3.5" back/front spacing.

    A 4" backspace means it has a 3" front spacing ....... so not sure how it has 0mm offset ?

    I think since I have 7" of gap from WMS outer to fender ..... versus 5.5" from WMS to rear ...... I want a slightly negative offsite to push the tire out to the fender. Say a 13mm negative offset .......

    Basically a smaller backspacing than frontspacing but only slightly.
     
  9. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Try this. It may help.

    http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
     
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,071

    squirrel
    Member

    offset and back spacing are not quite the same thing...the back spacing also includes the 1/2" thick edge of the wheel. Wheel width, and offset, are measured to the inside of that lip. Backspacing is measured to the outside of the lip. It can be confusing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    they are front spring hanger hardware, installed at the back of the truck. under the frame, instead of outside the frame.
     
  11. FAKKY
    Joined: Sep 9, 2016
    Posts: 295

    FAKKY
    Member

    Thanks guys.....thx Squirell that is certainly a better option for me.....

    Think I'll go to one of those cheap used tires/wheel places and see if I can get some 15 or 16 inch rims... 8 wide and matching tires ...... And see mock up

    Sent from my XT1650 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 480

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Cool as ice wagon there Squirrel
     

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