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Hot Rods Springs under radiator

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jjjmm56, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 531

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    I have a 36 ford pu that came with springs under the radiator mounts. Do these springs need to be used or can I replace them with something else?


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  2. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,141

    41woodie
    Member

    I think that the springs should go above the flange on the radiator. So from bottom to top the layers would be frame, thin rubber pad, radiator flange, spring, nut on bolt
     
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  3. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,068

    rusty rocket
    Member

    ^^^^^ what woodie said. Im thinking you want the radiator to have a small amount of movement.
     
  4. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,141

    41woodie
    Member

    agreed the purpose of the spring is avoid transferring the twist or flexing of the frame to the radiator which is not good for the solder joints and brass/copper used in the radiator
     

  5. ROBERT JAM
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,261

    ROBERT JAM
    Member

    That's the way I see it also
     
  6. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,141

    41woodie
    Member

    The springs, rubber pads and all hardware are available in a complete kit from most any old Ford parts vendor
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  7. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 531

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    I'm doing a custom support. So rubber under the mounts springs on top?


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  8. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 531

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

  9. Yes, you need the springs on top of mount. Without them the rad. will eventually CRACK, due to vibration, frame movement etc.
     
  10. If they were not important Henry wouldn't have used them,they help absorb vibration and like Mikey said, the radiator will eventually crack & leak. HRP
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  11. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 531

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

  12. I believe that the nuts and bolt should be drilled for a cotter pin once adjusted.
     
  13. trollst
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 2,108

    trollst
    Member

    Sometimes....we just have to think for ourselves, twenty years ago when I built my 36 ford pickup, I had the stock rad recored, then followed chevy's example and built a mount for the rad with the attachment to the frame in the center of the mount, in the middle of the crossmember, used a 1/2 inch thick piece of industrial belting. Twenty years and nearly 100,000 miles ago, no cracks.
     
  14. Hotrodmyk
    Joined: Jan 7, 2011
    Posts: 2,306

    Hotrodmyk
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Yes, cotter pins on the nuts. Just tighten enough to put slight pressure on the springs, don'y compress them.
     
  15. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,348

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    What they said above. Just about any old Ford parts catalog has the parts and the drawing to show you how to put it all together. More than likely it's on the web, too, either as a photo or as a drawing in an online catalog. Gary
     
  16. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 531

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

  17. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,068

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Or use a nylock nut instead of drilling and cotter pinning.
     
    mad mikey likes this.

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