I am getting ready to spray the underside of my current project with Imron. I did this with my last project and it has held up tremendously. I am aware of the dangers of spraying Imron and I am taking the proper precautions. My question is this, has anyone sprayed Imron using an HVLP gun. I have an Optima primer gun which has a 2.0 nozzle. I think that the Imron should spray through that gun with no problem. The last time I sprayed Imron I used a Devilbiss pressure-pot system primarily because I was on the floor shooting up at the undercarriage. This time the car is on a rotisserie. I would rather know if the HVLP will work before I start shooting so I don't have to switch gears and get the pressure-pot out after I have started the job.
Thanks, have Optima gun with 1.4 that I use for color and clear I will use that. No fresh air system but have very good full faced respirator and am spraying outdoors.
I shoot Imron Elite (SS) nearly everyday with either a 1.2 or 1.4 . You'll find yourself cussing if you use a 2.0!!!! As a rule: The smaller the tip/nozzle # size, the finer the atomization of the paint. The finer the atomization, the smoother the finish. Typically anything over a 1.4 is for materials that are thicker in viscosity such as primers or paints with flake that requires the larger openings. Thinner viscosity paints when shot through a larger tip have the tendency to either not flow out completely when curing thus leaving a thick orange peel look or on the flip side, they sag and or run very easily.
Sprayin it is just like sprayin centari i use a 1.4 to 1.5 tip on a graqvity feed mg1 gun good luck!!
be care full that stuff killed 3 of my friends they were all big truck painters all gone you make sure you take all precautions all of em damit it might not get ya now but they swore by the stuff no they dont have to worry
For the underside I would recomend Industrial Imron. Great protection and fills defects well. If sprayed on too heavy, will cover many sins and is hard to run, but will take two or four days to harden at 70 degrees. (keep the dust away) The cost is about 1/3 of regular Imron, same good protection although a little orange peel. I am going to refinish my 41 Ford COE with it as I don't want the real high luster of the latest paints. (and its only $136/Gal, V/s $535/Gal for red. Black is $100/gal) Use HVLP gun. Its The Law!
Imron can be buffed and will look like buffed lacquere. The problem with that is that Imron has a very high shine and that is the secret to its ability to resist grafitty and clean itself in a rain storm.
It can be buffed, but it is not an easy job if it has setup for many days - ask me how I know I've used it for many different frame and engine applications - it works well, but it is expensive and dangerous stuff . . . you absolutely need to be careful and have the necessary fresh-air equipment. B&S
FYI, Imron is a brand name. It's sold in a bc/cc form, just like the other brands. I think people are under the assumption that "Imron" is something unusual. The safety hazards are no more hazardous than that of PPG or Sikkens etc. It's all bad. Use caution when spraying any of these airborne carcinogens.
^^^ It contains isocyanates - that's CYANIDE to you and me. Use a full force air respirator. From the web....2 part polyurethane's The two part polyurethane finishes, also known as Linear Polyurethanes have some very interesting characteristics. These characteristics are why they are so widely used in automotive applications, trucks and on airplanes. Positive points include Inherent UV absorption due to the the molecular structure of the linear (aliphatic) polyurethanes. Extremely hard finish High, wet look gloss Excellent buffing characteristics Recoating windows of up to 3 days without sanding (see manufacturers directions for details) Negative points include: Extreme toxicity. Forced air respirator, skin and eye protection are a MUST. There are NO approved cartridge respirators - the isocyanates are odorless. 10-25% chance of developing chemical induced asthma which is permanent form exposure to the IsoCyanate hardeners Relatively high "buy in cost" Need appropriate thinners, reducers, hardeners, forced air respirator, HVLP spray gun Not for the casual user. These are designated as "professional use only" products. The isocyanates contained in the hardener require the use of a forced air respirator. The isocyanates used in the hardener are highly toxic, can cause permanent asthma and are odorless. Because of the odorless property of the most toxic component, no cartridge respirators are approved for this use. Axis products makes the Hobby Air makes a very nice, reasonably priced (at least for these devices) product for the amateur. They are primarily sold to aircraft builders. You have a 5-20% chance of getting permanent chemical induced asthma if your protection is not adequate! After that, the normal solvent toxicity issues come in - think heavy duty lacquer thinner. See the following links for some excellent background info: <table border="0" cellspacing="10" width="100%"><tbody><tr> <td>Collision Industry Action Group</td> <td>www.ciag.ca/iso.html</td> </tr> <tr> <td>OSHA</td> <td>www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/autobody/docs/nioshctm/nioshctm.html</td> </tr> <tr> <td>EPA on HVLP spray guns</td> <td> www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/auto/spraygun_success</td> </tr> <tr> <td>EAA Sport Aviation Magazine</td> <td>www.eaa.org/benefits/sportaviation/aircraft_bldg0302.pdf</td> </tr> <tr> <td>WoodWeb Q&A</td> <td>www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Filtering_out_isocyanates.html</td></tr></tbody></table>
Just because the thread came up again I want to report that I used my HVLP with 1.5 tip and it came out AWESOME!
Cozee, what would be an example of a 1.2's use? Overall, spot jobs etc. I have never used anything smaller than a 1.4. I need all the help I can get.
And how! Leave no skin exposed. No pets, kids, ect anywhere near the spay booth/ exhaust fan. Overspray is gonna hang forever. Good health to ya.
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