I am going to start the build of my sport coupe. It came to me here in Maryland from southern California about 10 years ago. I took it as partial payment for a construction project after the customer was unable to pay. I has been sitting here in the shed since. I have been collecting parts here and there. 51 F1 brakes, 70 Bronco rear, and other small items I have a 406 Ford FE with factory Tri-power rebuilt and sitting on the stand waiting.
I ordered a frame from Eric at Riley Automotive. The front end is from Pete and Jakes, and the spring is a Posies super slide. I am using the 51 F1 brakes that I had with 66 F100 hardware and self adjuster kits. I ordered the brake parts from Rock Auto. I am painting all of the steel parts with epoxy primer and black basecoat/clearcoat as I go.
I like it. Are you running fenders or fenderless? You will most likely have to cut or reverse the firewall to get that engine to fit in unless you use a 32 frame and stretch the hood.
I am going fender less, chopped, and channeled. Eric is making the frame with a extra 6 inches because I want to keep the stock firewall
good move on the extra 6" not much room in those A's. I put an extra 5" in my frame to get a Y block in without cutting the firewall.
A chopped Sport Coupe? Don't think I have ever seen one. I think I would try to trade the body for a standard coupe for that. It might be easier.
Looks like there is juice brakes on it already? Looking at the brake pedal in the interior and the brake drums.
I think it should be a easy chop. Just cutting the door jambs and doors, and windshield frame. I can modify the wood and get a top made. I am planning on lengthening the top of the door frame and the floor to make flosh doors.
I liked the look of Eric / Riley Automotive's swept frame. I called Eric and he was very helpful. He sent me a proposal that was basically his rolling chassis less spindles and brakes, and less the rear since I had that. I paid half and he sent me all of the parts right away. I have already received everything other than the frame itself. He is shipping the frame Friday and charging the balance then. I have no complaints at all. The parts were great American made stuff. Pete & Jake's and Posies for the most part. Communication has been great.
I was trying to find pictures of De Soto's car but no luck. I don't know my way around here very well. Got any?
I blasted the 35 wires that were on the car. I sprayed them with epoxy primer and then primer surface. I sanded them tonight and sprayed them with black basecoat. I will clear them in the morning. What a PITA a wire wheel is to paint.
I assembled the front end. It is a Posie's spring and the rest of the new stuff is Pete & Jake's. I had the spindles and F1 brakes. I rebuilt the brakes and used hardware and self adjusters for a 66 f100. I had to cut an additional adjustment opening in the left backing plate. I painted all of the steel parts with epoxy primer and base/clear black. I bought 1 1/4 spacers and the supports for the 35 wire wheels. I mounted up the tires tonight also. 550-16 front and 750-16 rear. It was a good thing that I thought I should keep some spare tubes on hand. I ripped the stem off of one. I haven't mounted tubes in a while. I need a little practice.
Man i love the look with those wheels and the top.I walk around your car every time I see it at the primer nats.
I received my frame from Riley Automotive today. It was 2 weeks from the order to the frame being shipped. It looks great. My son Chris and I took it off of the pallet this evening and started completing the mock up.
I am thinking that I should figure out where the radiator will be and set the fan to it. Then I would need to do whatever is needed to the firewall. I am also looking for thoughts on how the engine should set. If I make the carbs level on this tripower, the engine is down in the rear. Will that look odd? Would the carbs work correctly if I set the engine level?
I got the engine and trans in place The engine looks high to me but the trans can't go lower. I leveled the carbs and set the fan Where Walker told me it should be. Any comments before I weld in the mounts?
I was hoping to get some comments on the engine placement. The trans yoke has 3/8 clearence so can not go lower. I also think I should swap the deep pan on the trans for a standard. I then leveled the carbs, but it seems high to me. I am wondering if I should drop it lower in the front. Do the carbs need to be level? Where is the fan usually in relation to the front crossmember?
From the pics I can't really see why it wouldn't go where you have it. I have always set the engine install angle level at the carb flange but keeping driveshaft angle in mind. You just want to mimic the chassis' rake at its target angle. If you level the carb flange and then change the rake or alter the ride height after the fact you may encounter issues. If you are unsure you could tack everything really good and continue with the build. Then if you have to change something it's not a big mess to cut up. Also I would mount the radiator and get the fan to radiator relationship established asap. Hope this helps. Hack
Where does the firewall end up in relation to the back of the engine? Height wise will the driveshaft go under the floor, or how much of a driveshaft tunnel will be needed?
I am going to try and get the body set on Sunday. I am planning about a 3" channel, so I will be installing a tunnel as needed. I was actually going on Posies' recommendation to set the front to place and then do what is needed to the firewall. The frame has 6" added ahead of the cowl. I am hoping to keep as much of the stock firewall as possible. What do you think of the height of the engine. The transmount is bolted up and I have the oil pan setting on a jack now.
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