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Technical Spoon pedal spring installation help needed

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roll of the dices, Feb 17, 2020.

  1. I tried a couple searches here and the Barn but came empty handed. Hoping someone here can help me.
    I am in the process of installing this '36 spoon pedal in my Model A Roadster, so I made quick template to find the right location for the holes and the pass through cut out.
    Everything fits well but once I install the spring, it feels there is too much return tension on it.
    The pedal sits almost straight up...I don't remember on my '36 truck ever seeing anything like it.

    thumbnail_IMG_5519.jpg
    With the spring mounted, in which I think is the right location, the pedal returns only stopping at what would be the firewall. The upper part of the pass though cut out.

    thumbnail_IMG_5523.jpg
    I thinking it should sit somewhere lower, to what it would be the floorboards, no?

    thumbnail_IMG_5520.jpg thumbnail_IMG_5521.jpg thumbnail_IMG_5522.jpg
    This is how the spring is mounted. I tried rotating the spring, rotating the sleeve on the shaft but it always returns to the same position....

    The pedal works well, smooth, no binding but I am not sure what I am missing. It returns the pedal with plenty of force. The spring appears to be original, just like the rest of the parts.

    Is it going to relax once I connect it to the carbs to the linkage? Wouldn't that put to much stress on the carb shafts? Maybe the wrong spring?

    Thank you in advance
     
  2. Idaho/Dave
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 511

    Idaho/Dave
    Member
    from Idaho

    It looks right, once the linkage is hooked up to the carb the spoon will drop down to the right position.
     
    clem likes this.
  3. deucendude
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 593

    deucendude
    Member
    from norcal

    Yes, You need the right length linkage hooked to the carb. Solid rod linkage not a cable. That will put the pedal in the right position.
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,585

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    After a decade of driving my sedan with a stock 32 pedal and spring, I removed the stock spring. I use two (dual carbs) of the little Stromberg-made springs that fit around the carb base at the shaft and press on the linkage arms. And then one more spring attaches to the linkage and pulls straight forward to a bracket. Much less foot pressure required, and my leg doesn't cramp up on long trips.
     
    hfh and Algoma56 like this.

  5. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,429

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    Yep that's right, I'm running the same pedal in my flathead A and when it's disconnected it lays almost flat on the right head. I made the throttle rod from the linkage to the carb where it gives me full travel on the carbs before the pedal hits the floor. Kind of hard to see but in the first picture you can see the lever laying on the head and in the second picture with the linkage connected. works nice and smooth and doesn't need any other throttle return spring.
     

    Attached Files:

    flatford39 and olscrounger like this.
  6. Pete Poling
    Joined: May 1, 2016
    Posts: 103

    Pete Poling
    Member

    I like how you mounted it to a flat plate to get a idea of how it works before putting it in the car..... I’m in the same boat with my AV8 and I’m having the same issue with the pedal not being where I think it should be. Gonna play around now! I’ll have to admit, I don’t understand the cups that go on before the nut, if it’s just used as a washer then why not just use a washer?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,176

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Just asking but do you really need a spring on the pedal ??
     
  8. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 885

    Doublepumper
    Member

    I ditched the factory spring, as it wasn't needed for my carb setup. The cup is used as a washer and to cover the hole in the factory firewall insulator. The flange on the cup spans the outside of the hole in the insulator and acts as trim to help keep it contained against the firewall. The length of the linkage rod to the carb determines the position of the spoon from the floor.
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  9. redoxide
    Joined: Jul 7, 2002
    Posts: 594

    redoxide
    Member
    from Scotland

    being as thick as a plank, I mounted mine all wrong, but it works. A little heat and bending and it was perfect :) I have no idea what mine came from, It was in the bitsa box.. works great ..

    DSCF6562.JPG
     
    Johnny Gee, GordonC and sawbuck like this.
  10. sawbuck
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,887

    sawbuck
    Member
    from 06492 ct

    i did the same ...i musta did it wrong too
     
    redoxide likes this.
  11. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,798

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Like Idaho dave points out, when the solid rod spans from the carb to the ball at the end of the linkage, the pedal will be in a normal position. You will probably need to play with rod lengths to make it comfortable so I would make the rod adjustable.
     
  12. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 2,355

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A couple of dark pics of mine. Fitted it to the firewall of the car and then had to heat and bend the arm and also cut and adjust the linkage to the carb about 3 times before I got it right. I also added a small return spring to make sure it won't get stuck. Works pretty well.

    20200218_201831.jpg 20200218_201843.jpg 20200218_201849.jpg
     
  13. Thank you all for your responses. I guess I was over thinking it.
    Huge thank you for all the pics...I am a visual guy.
    I am glad the HAMB is here to guide the way.
    Thank you again!
     
    Pete Poling likes this.
  14. Pete Poling
    Joined: May 1, 2016
    Posts: 103

    Pete Poling
    Member

    Any progress??? Pics? Still trying to figure out the same problem


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  15. For more details check out my build thread, page 13...here is what I did. Hope it helps

    These are the dimensions I came up after it was all done
    thumbnail_IMG_5546.png

    I am using a 59AB with two carbs and an Offenhauser intake. I measured so the arm will be level with the top of the manifold and the joint in the arm will line up with the carb in hopes to avoid any bidding once connected to the lever.
    thumbnail_IMG_5526.jpg
    I built this knuckle similar to the one on the other side, since the original cover won't fit due the firewall difference in shape. Simple piece of round tube and a cut off screw.
    thumbnail_IMG_5533.jpg thumbnail_IMG_5534.jpg

    Fits nice and tight against the firewall. Works super smooth.
    thumbnail_IMG_5539.jpg thumbnail_IMG_5535.jpg
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  16. Pete Poling
    Joined: May 1, 2016
    Posts: 103

    Pete Poling
    Member

    Great details! Thanks for the pics! All the really good pics look like 30-31 firewalls and I have a ‘29. Can anyone pull a measurement of the spacing between the the right side of the brake pedal and where the spoon pedal starts?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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