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Technical Split wishbones

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 87notch, Oct 26, 2018.

  1. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 70

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    I’m working on the front end of my 30 Model a coupe and I want to run split bones. Someone told me not to use the originals because they are too short. Is there any truth to this? If so which bones should I be looking for?


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  2. Malcolm
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 7,322

    Malcolm
    Member
    from Nebraska

    There are plenty of hot rods out there running around with split Model A wishbones. The longer ones that a lot of people like to use are '32-'34, though later than that can work, also.
     
  3. Jeremy Jalopies
    Joined: Jul 28, 2014
    Posts: 141

    Jeremy Jalopies
    Member

    I have both that are mentioned above and yes, the Model A bones are shorter by about 8-9" but that could be that when mine were split they took off too much material. 642ABA4F-60F9-4BAC-9570-4E17FBB90930.JPG
     
    Nailhead Jason likes this.
  4. I'm not sure if the Model A bones won't work just as well as the longer 32 -34 bones but I believe the longer bones does have more visual appeal. HRP
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2018
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  5. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 5,367

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    When I did the chassis for Hot-Rod Roadsters 29 highboy with deuce rails many years ago I used split A bones and he drove the car 20,000+ miles while he had it with no problems. Used Vega steering on it. It looked good.
     
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  6. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 3,860

    raven
    Member

    The thing you need to think about is what type of steering you are going to use and the placement of the box. That is where the length of the split bones comes into play. So answer that question first, then we can give you counsel.
    r


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  7. Harms Way
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 6,839

    Harms Way
    Member

    Alright,.... Stock Model A bones have a much lower mounting point for the original ball joint,... So when you split them and mount them to the side of the frame,... You re-adjust the caster in a negitive direction,. The reason most people use 1932 and up bones to split, Is because of the caster built into the wishbones at the wrist. You can use split "A-bones" just make sure you have at least 6 degrees of caster.....
     
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  8. ^^^^^
    So, unless you pie cut them; the rear pivots will be hanging at an unappealing distance below the frame.
     
  9. Stock Racer
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 489

    Stock Racer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used 37-41 bones on mine. The opening is correct for a Model A axle and the caster came out close to what I wanted without pie cutting. And yes, they are longer. IMG_0589.JPG
     
  10. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 70

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    The plan is to use an F1 box


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  11. I used 33 bones on my 34 coupe. Was able to mount the other end of the bones to the side of the frame rail and still preserve 7 degrees caster.
    I used model A bones on my 33 pickup and had to mount the ends of the bones about 4 inches below the frame rail to get acceptable caster...with brackets. 33sideshop.jpg 34inpark2.jpg
     
  12. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 70

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    [​IMG]so I’ve got a chance to pick up these 32 bones for $200 and they are 2 hours from my house. Would they be worth it, or should I just split my A bones?


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  13. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 12,504

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What axle are you using? Those front "yokes" won't fit a Model A axle, but they will fit 32-36 Ford made axles.

    .
     
  14. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,513

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Id pay the 200 for the 32 bones myself if they were straight and relatively pit free. I don't think its at all necessary for what your doing but I'm not a fan of the look of split model A bones. That being said I wouldn't be at all worried about model a wishbone from A functionality standpoint.
    40 type wishbones sell cheap. Its easy to trim the spring perch off them so that's an option too.
     
  15. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 8,582

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The graceful 'drop' of the '46-'48 bones has gained wide appeal...the 'sweep' is indeniable!
    Actually, any of the 'front spring' type is desirable, for their length and 'automatically acrued' caster... if one is willing to do some 'pruning' and reshaping of the yokes.
     
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  16. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 1,267

    Fordors
    Member

    Mike’s right, and by reshaping he means reducing the thickness of the top yoke, when that is done you need to also re-machine the 60* countersink for the spring perch.
    Aftermarket perches are longer and I guess they would work without the above steps but that would raise the front of the frame a bit.
     
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  17. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,513

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One other thought is using the later wishbone tubes with the early ends. I've done this including building a non split wishbone with mixed match parts. There s pictures of one I did in my photo albums in my profile. Its was super easy if you weld
     
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  18. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 12,504

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used a 35 axle that I dropped, then 46-46 wishbone tubes, but grafted onto 35 trimmed "spring ahead" yokes ...that setup was to clear the tie-rod and center link. Worked slick.

    And I tuck the bones under the chassis as much as possible for several reasons, and those stepped tubes on 46-48 look like they were made for that.

    .
     
  19. Pretty easy to mill the bosses on an "A" axle to 2"; and the side profile of '32-'34 bones have about the best look of all Henry's wishbones.

    I would get good pictures and a measurement of the overall length, if you consider them; seen a lot of deuce-'34 wishbones overly shortened, bowed, notched for filter clearance, or in other unimaginable ways mangled in a previous life.
     
  20. I had split A bones on my A, but my stance was stockish / full fendered. One thing to mention, that I think hasn't been mentioned yet is...The A bone yoke (if I can call it that) is "thinner" in the bosses at which the perch bolt goes through. It always made me a bit nervous knowing that the later bones were quite a bit thicker in that area. I would never use A bones again for that reason. I'll never build another A so, whatever...
     
  21. ^^^^
    The Model A thru '34 wishbone yokes need not be as heavy as they don't support the weight of car the way the '35 up wishbones do with their integral spring perches.
     
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  22. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 3,860

    raven
    Member

    The rear mounted position of the bones should be as close in line vertically with your drag link on your steering box as possible unless you are using a Bega box (not the case here since you stated the use of an F1 box). The proper positioning of these two relative point helps decrease any bump steer.
    r


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  23. They do support the structural integrity of the front suspension, if you happen to get into an accident, or shoot into the ditch of the freeway to avoid one. Maybe I should have said that way?

    Thicker, to me, equals safer, or something like that. Flying down the highway at 70, I did not feel comfortable with that particular part of the car. Especially knowing that there were much more robust versions out there. It was simply a hind-sight 20/20 moment is all.

    My first post, and this post are simply opinions. The thread seemed to focus exclusively on length of wishbone. If I were spending money on hot rod parts, I would buy the thicker ones is all.
     
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  24. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 70

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    I also have a wishbone that came with a front end I bought for the juice brakes. The problem is that one of the holes is slightly malfunctioned where someone cut the castle nut off. Can this area be repaired? [​IMG]


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  25. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 70

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    These are not my bones this is just for demonstration. The place where the red circle is where it’s messed up.


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  26. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 5,367

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    I'd go for the 200.00 deuce bones. they look good?.
     
  27. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,353

    thirtytwo
    Member

    35-48 wishbones work very well if you want to put tie rod under or use bolt on steering arms , it’s a bit harder to stretch the steering arms under 28-34 bones
     
  28. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,513

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here's what all this boils down too. If you're going to build a car you need to be able to tell if a part is structurally sound for its application. That has nothing to do with part interchange knowledge or history of hot rod knowledge. It has to do with knowing how to build a car from parts. Knowing what a parts function is and knowing what the stresses on it are.

    I'm not an engineer. I'm not particularly smart but I know what the parts I'm putting together do. I know what their function is.
    If you have some wishbone s you bought that are damaged and you are questioning that damage then fix them. Someone might tell you they're fine as is but if you're questioning them then fix it. If you can't fix a damaged wishbone then you need to start acquiring the skill to be able to do so. Building a car requires a lot of metal work.
    You'll be fine. Your car will be rad. Good luck
     
    117harv likes this.
  29. Hard to say without seeing the extent of the damage; but if is a couple torch bites, chisel gouges, or something similar; it is fixable. I've filled in the marks with weld and blended them into the taper with a carbide burr. If the damage is more severe, the taper could be built up with TIG weld and machined with a counter sink; but at that point (if you have to pay someone) it may not be worthwhile to repair.
     
  30. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 70

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    The bad spot is just a little torch bite, nothing severe. The ends look like cast, that’s why I was concerned with welding them. I split them tonight and when I went to mount them on my axle, I noticed that ‘30 spring perch is shorter than the ‘37 and doesn’t go all the way through. The 37 spring is a front mount and my ‘30 is a top mount. Does somebody sell a longer perch for this issue?


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