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Speedway residual valve seems "loose" - 41 Chevy brake upgrade

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Barsteel, Nov 2, 2013.

  1. Barsteel
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 724

    Barsteel
    Member
    from Monroe, CT

    Hello!

    I'm in the middle of buttoning up the brakes on my '41 Chevy Master Deluxe coupe. I have a front disc conversion on the front, an under floor dual well MC, and all new self adjusting hardware on the '56 Chevy rear end.

    I'm using an adjustable proportioning valve from Speedway motors, and a 2lb residual valve for the fronts (ECI makes the kit, talked with their tech guy who said that the MC has a built in residual valve for the rears).

    Anyway, I flared the 3/16 lines with the correct fitting, and installed the residual valve. Although I have the fitting tightly screwed into the residual valve, I can still move the brake line (rotate it in the fitting). Doesn't seem right to me. It doesn't wiggle, but it DOES turn.

    Anyone have any experience with these valves? Is that normal? Seems like it would leak to me because the flare doesn't seem to be seating on anything.

    I was going to call their tech line, but they're not open on Saturday and I'm impatient.

    Thanks...

    Chris
     
  2. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,457

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Most external residuals are tapped 1/8" pipe. 3/8"/24 tube straight thread to 1/8" pipe tapered thread adapters may be needed, like Weatherhead # 202X3 male connector. :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,813

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    speedway res valves are pretty notorious for leaking so a lose one wouldn't surprise me, I hear the same about the very similar wilwood ones and have gone threw a few of those myself. I ended up using the brass ones from...well shoot now i don't recall the name rci or something like that?
     
  4. geoford41
    Joined: Jul 26, 2011
    Posts: 476

    geoford41
    Member
    from Delaware

    I have the same speedway adjustable valve & 2lb check valve in my 40 and I agree with V8 Bob you need adapters to the 1/8" FNPT in both valves
    geoford41
     
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  5. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    You should not be using aluminum line units on a street car, these are race car parts which usually are inspected more than the average street car. The more reliable units are the brass version offered by ECI Brakes and are less prone to oxidation issues.
     
  6. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

  7. supercab78
    Joined: Dec 19, 2011
    Posts: 53

    supercab78
    Member

    + 3 on the adapter,

    AND as a side note on the built in valve for the rear. If it's one from a parts store I haven't seen them installed for years. They used to put them behind the brass flare cone on the master cylinder. It was a small spring and rubber seal. But I haven't seen one on a parts place MC for years. If the MC is from ECI maybe it is in there.
     
  8. Barsteel
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 724

    Barsteel
    Member
    from Monroe, CT

    Shit. Hopefully I didn't mangle the threads too badly. I have pipe tap, maybe I can clean it up.

    The kit came from Chevs of the 40s, but they get it from ECI, so I have to take the tech guy at his word.

    Thanks...

    Chris
     
  9. Are yours brass? Brass=ECI=good
     
  10. Barsteel
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 724

    Barsteel
    Member
    from Monroe, CT

    No, these are the aluminum ones from Speedway. This is my first time using them, so it's all new to me.

    Chris
     
  11. Toss the aluminum crap and get the good ECI brass ones. And then use the right fittings. ECI come with them.
     
  12. nialkc
    Joined: Aug 5, 2013
    Posts: 5

    nialkc
    Member

    you will need to use a fitting that is pipe thread on the cylinder side and has the correct size female flare in the line side.IE 1/8 or 3/16 etc. best to use steel lines and be sure that you double flare the end. {this might be your problem if you already have the right fitting] a single flare will probably split and start leaking just when you least expect it. A double flair takes a special flairing tool. Good luck
     

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