I have to get a 7 degree reamer to ream the drag link hole in the steering arm of my '34 project, which got me thinking about my (stalled because of the roadster) '63 Riviera project. I have new original style ball joints in the control arms, and I'd thought of using a pair of '93 Chevy Caprice spindles and disk brakes, complete, that I have on the shelf. When I tried to test fit, if memory serves the Chevy spindles have a larger hole for the upper ball joint. Does anybody know if these are 7 degree like the Ford reamer I ordered? I could weld the holes full, re-drill and re-taper to fit the Buick ball joints, and "Bob's yer uncle", disk brakes for the Rivi for FREE!!
man....when I was trying to add disk brake to a factory big block mid 60's Chevie....loooong before the aftermarket DB guys.....I figured the lower a-arm is the same to 1970....and the upper would inter change as well.....on a big Impala....so 69/70 steering arm would work on the a-arms - WITH THE RIGHT BALL JOINT ! Maybe yours could be also ?
I can't remember the actual taper on the Chevrolet stuff, but about 30 years ago, I had a friend make up some tapered bushings to install 1970 Impala spindles with disc brakes on a 1955 Chevrolet ball joint(and car)
I was thinking of a tapered bushing too. It could be made from a bronze alloy and the press fit in the spindle could be very light, it isn't going anywhere once everything is tightened up.
If'en you do weld up a hole; be sure to Tig it, mig will be too hard to work with. Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When you get the reamer it should be easy to tell. I like tapered end mills better than reamers for less money..
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