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Hot Rods Spalding Bros Repro, for "Too Tall" Ganahl.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Jul 13, 2015.

  1. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    It was time to mount the rear shocks. Because there will be cutouts in the turtle deck, where the shocks extend outside the body line, I made a cardboard template to trim out around the shocks. Then I will transfer the cutouts to the deck, without making them oversize. To make a mock up on the shock mounts, I used some scrap 18 ga sheet metal. That way I can bolt on the shocks and clamp the setup brackets to the roll bar mounting, to finalize the design. Using some 3/16 X 5" flat bar, I bent the mounting plates with a radius die in a press. More to follow . IMG_7344.JPG IMG_7345.JPG IMG_7346.JPG IMG_7351.JPG IMG_7352.JPG IMG_7354.JPG
     
  2. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Now to layout and shape the brackets. With the shocks bolted to the oversize plates, I draw the desired shape, and with a trip through the band saw, all is left is belt sanding , and some touch up with a mop disc. I will use a pitman arm puller to remove the old remnants of the arms, and bead blast the mill scale off of the brackets, and cleanup the shocks too. IMG_7361.JPG IMG_7355.JPG IMG_7356.JPG IMG_7357.JPG IMG_7358.JPG IMG_7359.JPG IMG_7360.JPG IMG_7362.JPG
     
  3. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    nice work.
     
  4. pgan
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 238

    pgan
    Member Emeritus

    This is more than nice work. Thanks Marty. I'm a lucky guy.
    But let me take this opportunity to try networking once again. Since these A2 RotoFlo shocks are prominently shown here (which I acquired thanks to Squeak Bell and his NZ connections), does anyone out there have another pair--in at least this nice condition--available to replace the smaller ones I now have on the front? I've seen very nice sets on at least 3 or 4 street rods lately. I'll pay reasonable price, but I'd prefer original, unpittted, complete, working ones. Greasy originals are preferable to "rebuilt" or disassembled. I understand they're more common down OZ/NZ way.
    2) I'm also searching for any sort of GMC six distributor incorporating a tach drive (from a truck?). Or a rare Stewart-Warner tach-drive adapter to fit the GMC block and accept a dog-drive distributor. Or an S-W two-to-one front-mount (crank-driven) mechanical tach drive.
    3) And a decent S-W 2-5/8" black-face, flat glass fuel gauge to match the ones seen a couple pages back. I need two of these.
    I probably need a lot more than that. But at least these are things I might be able to buy with money. Anyone?
    Thanks,
    Pat Ganahl
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  5. Rckt98
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,136

    Rckt98
    Member

    Pat, any idea what those shocks might have been on originally? If I know what to look for I can make enquiries down here.
    Russell
     
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  6. Gofannon
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 927

    Gofannon
    Member

    I don't know if they were OE on anything, just an aftermarket shock. The last pair I saw were fitted to an unrestored '46 Chevy truck. I offered to buy them if the owner wanted to get rid of them, but he ended up selling them on TradeMe. So keep your eye out as they could be on anything. Some vintage car guy will probably have a stash, and not know their worth.
     
  7. Gofannon
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 927

    Gofannon
    Member

  8. pgan
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 238

    pgan
    Member Emeritus

    Yes, as the ad above states, Rotoflos were made in England, apparently in the early '50s, as an aftermarket replacement for liquid-filled or other lever shocks ("dampers"). As it says, they have a thick "plastic" substance inside, that works against a vane. No-one seems to know what this plastic is, or any workable replacement today. But the smaller A1s currently on the front of my car I found on a parts shelf N.O.S., and after some exercising in a bench vise holder, seem to work fine. The larger A2s, which Marty is mounting to the rear, are about the same size as early Ford Houdailles. Squeak found these on his annual trek to New Zealand, and he says he's seen them on early Holdens and Fords there and in Australia, even in junkyards. I paid very decent prices for the ones I have. I'd be happy to trade the smaller N.O.S. A1s for good used A2s. I've been shopping for these for a few years, but what I have found here have been broken, badly pitted, mismatched, or disassembled, and usually for very high prices. A good pair like the one in the ad (and that Marty is mounting on the rear) is what I'm looking for.
    Thanks, Pat
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,351

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

  10. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    1947knuck likes this.
  11. Progress is looking good, Pat it was nice to meet you at your book signing back in October when we were over visiting.

    From what I know of the Rotoflo's they were made over here for light trailer/caravan use and got used on early fords as the bolt holes meant they were a direct replacement. I have a set of 4 a2's but I don't really want to sell them but they aren't too rare here so I will take a look around there is a few swap meets coming up.


    Harley
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2017
  12. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I worked on the turtle deck repair and the rear shock mountings, along with making the cutouts to clear the shocks. IMG_7373.JPG IMG_7374.JPG IMG_7376.JPG IMG_7377.JPG IMG_7378.JPG IMG_7379.JPG IMG_7380.JPG IMG_7383.JPG
     
  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    After making the layouts, I used a plywood backup for the 1-1/4" hole saw, and trimmed it up with a slitting wheel on a die grinder. The cutouts may need to be larger in the end, but they are pretty close. IMG_7384.JPG IMG_7385.JPG IMG_7386.JPG IMG_7387.JPG IMG_7388.JPG IMG_7390.JPG IMG_7391.JPG
     
  14. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Now for the rear shock arms. I have been nervous about removing the the remnants of the original arms, for fear of damage to these rare units. I started out by machining a spud, to use in conjunction with my friend Ern's pitman arm puller. After getting the old pieces removed, and everything bead blasted, I band sawed the square portion off. The next thing was to machine a stub shaft to hold the the boss of the arm, without hurting the splines while machining it round. Now I can make some arms from flat stock, to weld to the bosses, with a pinch-clamp like the original car. IMG_7392.JPG IMG_7393.JPG IMG_7396.JPG IMG_7397.JPG IMG_7398.JPG IMG_7399.JPG IMG_7401.JPG IMG_7402.JPG
     
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,516

    alchemy
    Member

    I bought an arm from Schroeder that had the same spline as my Rotoflo shocks. I haven't installed them in a car yet, but it seemed to fit when I tested it on the bench.

    It was a plain steel arm with the pinch bolt on the splined end. Plenty of material to shape the outboard end however you want.
     
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  16. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    "Neither Rain, Nor Snow", will keep me from my appointed duties, and we have had plenty of both lately ! Jeff, thanks for the tip on the Schroeder arms, but I am well on the way of making a pair. With a simple layout, and making a mock-up out of scrap aluminum, this is what I came up with. the real ones will be 3/16" steel, with 1/4" pinch bolts. IMG_7408.JPG IMG_7409.JPG IMG_7410.JPG IMG_7411.JPG IMG_7412.JPG IMG_7407.JPG
     
  17. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,416

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

  18. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 954

    Weedburner 40
    Member

  19. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Dale, This is the longest cold spell we have had in quite a while ! Things are looking up, back to work tomorrow. IMG_7423.JPG
     
  20. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I got the shock arms finished with the exception of profiling the outboard end, and the hole for the link rod. Now I can build the rear bumper ! IMG_7429.JPG IMG_7431.JPG IMG_7433.JPG IMG_7435.JPG IMG_7439.JPG IMG_7440.JPG IMG_7441.JPG IMG_7442.JPG
     
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  21. Love the horizontal mill Marty. I had one of those in our shop with an air/hydraulic feed on the table. Did a ton of second operation work on that machine in 40 years!
     
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  22. brg404
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 159

    brg404
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Is there enough clearance for the pinch bolt head against the side of the body there? Looks pretty close if you get a lot of travel on the shock arm...
     
    loudbang likes this.
  23. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    DAMN! This thread is like "Tech week" times 1,000!! Love it!
     
  24. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Just limit the travel Marty LOL

    Don
     
  25. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    The RH side of the turtle deck, is going to require some shrinking, due to some trauma from a prior body man. This shot of the LH side (unmolested) is what the RH side will look like, when "The Tall Cool One" gets done with it ! IMG_7443.JPG
     
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  26. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Dean, I don't use the Nichols mill all that much, but it is certainly handy to have around for cutting key-ways.
     
  27. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Now for the rear bumper. 1 1/4"X .120 wall tube for the bumper, 1 1/2"X .120 wall for the receptacles. With everything fit and tacked in place, there will be gussets that cap the receptacles and extend into the channels of the frame rails. The bumper tubes will make a solid platform to mount the aluminum fuel tank, coming soon ! IMG_7445.JPG IMG_7446.JPG IMG_7447.JPG IMG_7448.JPG IMG_7450.JPG IMG_7452.JPG IMG_7453.JPG IMG_7455.JPG IMG_7456.JPG
     
  28. Nice clean design, just like the rest of the car.
     
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  29. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,402

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Marty,
    Really like your tube notcher. Is that a commercial item or did you make it?
     
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  30. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 8,903

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Bruce, It's a Pro-Tools "Industrial" unit, with the "offset" feature. About $230 bucks.
     
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