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Projects Southeast TN 51 shoebox build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Kage, Nov 6, 2018.

  1. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    The back part if both of my inner fenders are pretty rotten. I’m going to attempt to make a new set....working on my pattern right now. I’ll make a wooden buck to help form the lip.
    I will also make the bump separate and add it after I get a good fit for the rest of the panel.

    870C708F-047B-4D49-8565-D33BF0EFB43C.jpeg 962281D0-6C0E-4A37-A480-2F0FD5C3FD33.jpeg
     
  2. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Made a little progress on the rear inner fender panel...it’s coming along nicely. I still have some trimming and some hammer and dolly work, plus drilling holes. What do you guys think?

    DBCC90CE-6A13-4D68-86EA-B1FBD3C8BE12.jpeg 501DCDE3-FEB6-4B8C-93DD-3502E135E37B.jpeg C4EAB61D-5E97-48CA-AB49-79AC50CD82D0.jpeg 1EABD185-84AE-448A-AA19-9990AB428978.jpeg
     
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  3. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,864

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Cool, dont forget to make those oval holes for hood springs, like someone did..
     
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  4. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Slow progress....seems like I can only get an hour or two in the shop at a time. But progress is progress

    Made a wooden buck and hammer formed the blister

    E475EA83-2345-4371-937C-FE57958D49AD.jpeg 5CE682D3-7EB1-421A-9786-7544BF43D9FF.jpeg

    Used my plannishing hammer and English wheel to smooth it out then I cut it in half.
    556EB9A1-E4E0-47A0-9467-A141F1245BC9.jpeg

    Fit was good...welded it up. I’m happy with it so far. I still have to clean up the welds and add the mounting holes.
    70316EC0-84E3-4F10-97C9-7A8A06C5070B.jpeg 6F492C17-F8E6-4DCB-BAE2-00873245D504.jpeg 77A195B4-ED47-4C4D-A741-229C41ED988E.jpeg
     
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  5. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Initial test fit was ok...had to make some minor adjustments....Then I put the fender on... I’m definitely going to have to modify the top ridge to fit the fender a little better.

    5758F542-D4B9-48B4-B9B9-2A9CE138CE76.jpeg DA1DFFC8-9338-4336-90CE-415FF4C71C6B.jpeg 97A3B501-A956-478F-97B3-4DC1C472ACD3.jpeg 850EC482-3B59-4E6D-A74D-3285B55175F5.jpeg

    I’m still having a big issue with my door gaps. The door sits to far to the rear...other than machining my hinges down to make them thinner...I’m open to suggestions.
    956F1EBE-8051-40AC-9E3E-F2C5CE413665.jpeg DDCC1D2F-29F3-4BFA-90CB-07F7CB00333F.jpeg

    Door seam overlaps at the back
    50C5368F-BE48-4793-A4F6-608DF6A5083B.jpeg


    A84BC61C-B581-4415-B73D-ADFF1B5F4626.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

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  6. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,864

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Looks like you used same method than i did with the inner fender humps. About that curved part of the panel, i think it doesnt have to match 100% perfect with the fender shape. And thats because the anti-squeak welt will forgive some of the gaps between the panel and fender. I think they werent perfect even from the factory, like many other things on these cars..
    That door overlapping looks bit weird. Have you tried to straight the hinges, so the door could move forward?
    I am not sure is machining the hinges good idea, maybe cleaning them a bit and checking that there isnt any crap between the body and hinge. You dont have the factory green bible?
    There was shown few good tricks for the gap problems.
     
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  7. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    I’m about to order a copy of the green bible. I’m going to keep working on the rest of the body until it shows up. The door gap has been that way on the driver side since I got the car...as long as I get it aligned before I chop the top.
     
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  8. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Christmas in May....got some parts in for the 51 today.

    87253AA7-3663-442D-AE8D-4E0D6A646909.jpeg
    The edges of the tank got bent during shipping...nothing a little hammer and dolly work can’t take care of
    EE4FF9B3-F342-49AF-AC08-F952AFDDD9B3.jpeg 065CB994-DB3A-4789-BEA4-54690ADC732B.jpeg
     
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  9. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    A little while back I picked up “what I was told” was a Maverick 8” housing at a swap meet. This past weekend I scored an 8” out of a 73 mustang...the original plan was to take the backing plates and chuck out of this rear and put them in the “Maverick” housing.....well after stripping the brakes and axles off the Mustang rear I realized the housings were the same width...and my supposed “Maverick” housing had wider spring perches on it...I’m thinking it came out of a truck....not a Maverick.

    I have had a hard time finding a Maverick rear end for a decent price. And no luck at all finding a 90-92 ranger 8.8. So I think I will just order some new axles and narrow one of theses housing.

    So I did some measuring. From wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface I got a measurement of 61 1/4. A Maverick rear is 56 1/2. Sooo....I need to remove a total of 5 1/4 inches from one of the housing...equal 2 5/8 inches off each side of the housing. I’m going to put the weld seam in the center of the spring perch. So my 1st order of business was to mark the spring perch centers. I marked and taped the area off. Then I measured 2 5/8 to the out side of the perch centers, then marked and taped it off.

    I’ll probably check all the measurements about 10 more times before I start cutting.

    The Mustang rear came with a 3:08 gear....trying to decide if I want to keep it or swap to either a 3:55 or 3:73 gear. The car will mainly be used for cruising and highway driving.

    A4559EE1-7500-4DAC-B624-643033A5127B.jpeg 85EC8B03-4028-48E8-83BE-8D25E7EEA786.jpeg 62880DDD-A320-4D0E-82A8-2B6271F525C3.jpeg A8860A19-C822-45AD-8D39-9523F1E8BE7F.jpeg
     
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  10. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Got started on the truck floor. I’m going to be redoing most of the trunk pan...the drivers side is pretty rough.

    913D9FEC-E263-4451-9750-2AF7286E2F80.jpeg
     
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  11. parabola
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 201

    parabola
    Member
    from OR

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  12. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,498

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My 63-1/2 Galaxie fastback has a trunk with rust, too. Main lament, it's an original California car, mfd. and sold here...always lived in the central valley, (formerly desert)
    It happens here, too.
    Great results with your bead roller, guess I'll be buying one, too. (finally)
    I did some planishing/bead work on the lower radiator scoop of the late Dave Zeuschel P-51 Mustang, always wanted to do 'more'! I also have a '54 Ford Coupe, so it must be time.
     
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  13. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    I’m a Barber by trade...I have 3 vintage chairs in my shop.
     
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  14. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    20190523_183638.jpg 20190523_183642.jpg 20190523_183646.jpg
    Trunk pan was worse than I originally thought. So I went ahead and cut it out. I should get started fabricating the new floor pan this weekend.
     
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  15. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Test fitting the left trunk panel. I still have to trim the excess off the right side and put some beads into it.

    6556A0DA-97E9-43DE-8781-5921BF560832.jpeg F1BE5C10-5E7E-4660-AFE1-604DDBB842D9.jpeg
     
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  16. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Left side is basically finished....started mocking up the right side. Should get the bends in it tomorrow. I’m not going to start welding anything in place until I get the rear panel and back half fabricated.

    171BA61B-6503-4E82-8D9C-DC0BF7929AF0.jpeg 3B5C86D9-2A2A-470E-BD79-AC6A0F2FF4EA.jpeg
     
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  17. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Not much to report...got another trunk panel made and mocked up.

    Unfortunately time is in short supply for me right now...between building a new house, truck broke dow, my daughters up coming sweet 16 birthday and family vacation, I haven’t had much time in the shop. I’m going to try to get a couple of hours in tomorrow and a few hours this Saturday before I leave for Savannah on Sunday.

    C0B47BA2-FC9E-46BF-9C4E-4E17646E8F50.jpeg
     
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  18. parabola
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 201

    parabola
    Member
    from OR

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  19. parabola
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 201

    parabola
    Member
    from OR

    Are you making extra room for a four link.

    Sent from my SM-J737P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  20. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Not planning on a four link...currently doing a static drop. Planning on de-arching the springs and 4 inch drop blocks.

    But I’m also considering doing a 2 link with air ride from Extreme Kustoms. (Pictured below)

    4C14EB75-4038-4357-BCB1-2E769420936C.jpeg
     
  21. parabola
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 201

    parabola
    Member
    from OR

    That's the setup I plan to install

    Sent from my SM-J737P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  22. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    20190613_214252.jpg

    Got a couple hours in tonight. Got the last trunk panel fabbed up. I still have some trimming and fitting to do before I start welding it all up.
     
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  23. parabola
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 201

    parabola
    Member
    from OR

  24. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

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  26. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

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  27. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Rear trunk pan 2.0. Decided to make a one piece rear section so I ordered a tipping die set. I think it is turning out pretty good. I need to find away to take the arch out caused by the tipping process. ....I would kill for a deep throat shrinker stretcher right now. Lol

    40C019ED-3688-40E0-A23C-8B898A53F52E.jpeg 73573E42-8869-4AA3-AF92-0CFBBE6416FB.jpeg
     
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  28. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Not much to update....I have a deep throat shrinker stretcher on the way so I can finish up the rear trunk pan. And I picked up my wheels from getting powder coated. I think they turned out great.

    32A36C56-4628-477B-91EB-1B3599A39C76.jpeg D445305E-67A7-4570-BBB2-E64C0C56427F.jpeg
     
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  29. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 913

    Kage
    Member

    Nothing much to report. I got my new deep throat shrinker stretcher from east wood in....tried using it on the rear panel I made to take the arch out of it....not having any luck... I’ve been using it with the hand crank mounted in a vise. I think I don’t have enough leverage doing it one handed trying to hold the panel at the same time. So ordered the stand from Eastwood...hopefully the foot lever helps me get more leverage and helps me be able to finish the panel.
     
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  30. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,864

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

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