Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Southeast TN 51 shoebox build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Kage, Nov 6, 2018.

  1. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    FD3930DF-3DD9-4B93-B010-912B5FDC42B0.jpeg 9A19D4E2-851C-4822-9712-DC6DA2CDB325.jpeg

    If you look above at post number 12, you will see I already decided to run the SROD transmission. It is a 3 speed manual with overdrive. The one I have is out of an F250. The truck version has the shifter farther forward than the the one out of the cars. So I won’t have to worry about the shifter getting in the way of the bench seat.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2018
    loudbang likes this.
  2. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 339

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well crap- you sure did! Not sure how/why we circled back to auto transmissions.... I'm gonna blame it on age and preoccupation with old cars.

    However the discussion about the rear end ratio is still valid- your manual (I got it right that time!) trans. has OD so I'd still say go with the 3.55 gears over the 3.08's.
    Sorry about the confusion! Keep up the good work- your metal work is a heck of a lot better than mine!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    It’s ok. I’m keeping my eyes pilled for a better rear. Found another local one today with a 3:55 Out of another ranger.
     
  4. I guess I missed that as well. Oops. What year is the ranger rear end? 91-92 are the exact right width


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    loudbang likes this.
  5. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Cool to see that people are still using the die design that i did long time ago. I think they work on other early '50's Ford cars too than shoeboxes. Have fun with them!
     
    Atwater Mike, loudbang and Kage like this.
  6. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    I’ve not got a lot done in the past couple of weeks. I did manage to get the dash removed and stripped. The dash, inner fenders and a few other parts are off getting sandblasted.
    I also got most of the old sound deading material scraped off the floor.

    C2C8D64C-1B26-4F44-8CCE-D3DB876F8E5E.jpeg

    I started working on the drivers floor pan. I got the edge bent and the location of the beads laid out. I still have some trimming and fitting to do.
    I’m hoping my custom set of bead dies are ready to pick up in the next day or so....so I get get the floor pans finished up.
    86BAB10B-DFCD-4849-AC03-CB036BE1778E.jpeg 0B1534A6-91D3-4F50-8B0A-827CD0ED5A0A.jpeg

    I will need to patch the back of the rocker panel some before I install the floor
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2018
    loudbang likes this.
  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 7,877

    manyolcars

    I've been working on my 1950 Crestliner today. When I put the mustang gas tank in, I turned it sideways and I still have the spare tire well. crestlinerskirts.jpg
     
  8. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    I would like to see pictures of that. I’ve not seen anyone else turn the gas tank sideways. I’m getting ready to order my gas tank.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Nice start! Just a little advice: cut a slightly oversized piece of sheetmetal and do all of the beadroller work first. The sheetmetal shrinks a bit after you have rolled it with the beadroller. Its hard to say that is there enought extras on those pieces you have already cut, but you can see it when you have rolled them. Keep it up!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. Pipes
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 911

    Pipes
    Member

    Looks like a great start! Definitely going to be following..I’m kinda partial to 51s.. I just need to get my lazy ass over to the garage where mine is to do something so I feel like it’s moving forward..



    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    loudbang and Kage like this.
  11. 204carcrazy
    Joined: Nov 12, 2010
    Posts: 8

    204carcrazy
    Member

    Look at 66/69 Comet/Montego gas tank , filler hole is in left frt corner of tank compared to Mustang center rear location . Jim
     
    loudbang and Kage like this.
  12. Pipes
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 911

    Pipes
    Member

    I just installed a new gas tank in my 51 from shoebox central. I think i spent like 250 or something for the tank and a new fuel sending unit and the hose too..The original sending unit has 6 screws holding it in place and new tanks have 5 I believe . Everything bolted right in place and I was able to hook it right up to the fuel filler tube . I don’t remember how much the mustang tanks go for now but the trunk floor in my coupe was near perfect so I opted to put it back under the car.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    0NE BAD 51 MERC and Kage like this.
  13. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    Last edited: Dec 11, 2018
  14. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Wait..I've seen these cool looking beadroller dies somewhere before:D
    The material choice is excellent, i think those will last longer than the original set i did ages ago. Have you rolled any panels yet with them?
    Keep it up!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    I've not rolled any panels yet. Hopefully I will get the chance this weekend. I hope my panels turn out at least half as good as yours did.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Thanks!
    This came to my mind. When rolling panels, the metal shrinks and the panel will get a slight curve. If you have an access for planishing hammer or english wheel, i recommend to do some pre-stretching before the beadrolling. This helped me a bit, so there wasnt so much "banana" shape on the floor pans.
    This video will show you what i ment:



    It sure is a pain in the ass to make big size panels without the pre-stretching them.
     
    chriseakin, Kage and loudbang like this.
  17. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    0A084D28-0C08-4C12-B2CC-8392CEB48644.jpeg E0514088-C474-484A-B7A0-64F6FF3230BB.jpeg Here is my 1st test run with the new dies. Not bad for my 1st time. I need to build a stand for the bead roller before I can make my floor pans.
     
  18. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    Thank you for the advice. I plan on picking up a plannishing hammer in the very near future
     
    loudbang likes this.
  19. Nice!
    I’m about to travel down the same path as you with my 51 convertible so I’m keen to watch your progress.
    My floor is pretty bad but I’ll be making new patches using the same method now that I’ve seen it done.
    Thanks
     
    loudbang likes this.
  20. slim39
    Joined: Feb 13, 2013
    Posts: 66

    slim39
    Member
    from pa

    Harbor Freight makes a pretty good english wheel for a good price. Enjoy and have fun.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  21. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    After a few crazy months I was finally able to get some work done on the 51.

    I spent a few hours test mocking up the inner and outer rocker panel. Once I was happy with the fit I primed and undercoated the inside of rocker panels. Then I welded them together. I still need to go back and finish weld the rockers in place. I set in my floor pan just to get a look and I’m very happy with the fit.


    798C9308-5F67-4511-9FF8-E51608FEA2EB.jpeg
    288F9601-39B2-4590-A539-02F25E8C9DC3.jpeg 8EF6A429-1FF9-4ECE-8D55-D8CB240FD7E5.jpeg 4F1AC1E0-243B-42C2-8B58-CAF39F669116.jpeg 7A8F8E79-C396-4C96-A462-6DD413F81D37.jpeg
    I am finishing up a stand for my plannishing hammer. Once it is complete I will get started running the beads in the floor pans.
     
    warhorseracing and loudbang like this.
  22. Seepwater
    Joined: Aug 13, 2006
    Posts: 160

    Seepwater
    Member

    I was reading your thread and saw your comment on getting an English Wheel. I have one with anvils that I'd part with! I live over in Sweetwater so I'm not too far from you.
     
  23. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    I’ll PM you about it.
     
    loudbang and warhorseracing like this.
  24. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    Finished up my plannishing hammer stand this evening. I’m happy with the way it turned out. Weather permitting I’m picking up an English wheel tomorrow or Sunday

    C0AEEFA9-7F24-4C0E-9FA8-472218CAFEED.jpeg C7289815-B75F-4A40-82B4-4BAE8198D33A.jpeg
     
    Finnrodder and loudbang like this.
  25. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

  26. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    Not much to report. I’m currently in the process of building a new house....and a bigger shop (if the budget permits) and that is taking up most of my spare time right now.

    I did manage to start repairs on the drivers inner fender. So far I’m happy with the way it is turning out. But I’m debating about building a custom set of inner fenders....mainly for a smooth cleaner look.

    F96D1F46-1602-4538-B1FA-B532A3AA93BE.jpeg A1CA20C3-6EAE-4258-A542-C8A48230F5AC.jpeg

    I have made a little progress on the floors. I made a patch for the rear floor. I still need to clean up the body brace under it before I can weld it in.

    BDDD313E-F1F7-4888-9759-D762A0F93135.jpeg E639C306-C317-463F-86DA-4BD842A52EB8.jpeg
    Next will be working on the trans tunnel and toe board.

    Progress is slow right now but some is better than none.
     
    loudbang and AChopped1950ford like this.
  27. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Small progress is better than no progress at all!
    I guess those custom made inner fenders are possible to do, but my opinion is that the factory inners are just fine. They doesnt look perfect from the factory, kind of low quality pieces. But i like the design anyway. I dont know do you have to, but if you have a need for replacing fender or inner fender for a better one, stick with the same year tins. It makes your life a lot easier, just learned that..
     
    loudbang and AChopped1950ford like this.
  28. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    Most of the drivers floor has been welded up. Fabricated a trans cover. I still need to make the bellhousing cover for the trans.

    I will finish weld the trans tunnel after I make the passenger side floor pan

    2DDD8538-7284-49F3-8F4C-58FF41577A55.jpeg 7DEE72B9-8DA7-4A87-8628-7874D2E043FA.jpeg

    I also started patching the drivers toe board.

    A6C806F4-984C-4CC5-94C8-D9A172B3C60E.jpeg 1240C998-F3BD-418F-A277-9AF4686B043A.jpeg

    Once I finish the toe board I will start repairing the trunk floor and welding up the body seam on the rear quarter. I will probably take this opportunity to go ahead and French the rear tail lights.....I just need to decide on the method I want to use to French them.....Any suggestions/recommendations?
     
    loudbang likes this.
  29. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,903

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    Nice progress!
    I like how the tail lights are frenched in my car. It was done before i bought it, so i have nothing to do with them. They are '50 lights, but i guess its possible to do with the '51 lights too if you are going to keep them. Personally i like the '49-'50 tail lights better than the '51's. Here's a link how it was done:

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/another-shoebox-goes-under-the-knife.379161/page-4

    I think there's pics missing of that thread. There is a tail light shaped rings at the trunkside of car. That ring is formed from roundbar and its welded there. That ring supports quarterpanel, when tail lights are bolted against them.
    The frenched panel edges are formed against that ring. I hope that helps.
     
    loudbang and Kage like this.
  30. Kage
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 926

    Kage
    Member

    Took a break from the floor and filled in the old gas door and started welding up the body seam.

    BBB733A1-8C7B-4F8F-871A-AC9F638B49DE.jpeg DB62D6AB-2C95-4705-BAA1-6B3D83831378.jpeg CD0618BE-1413-44C2-965F-D695225E39AD.jpeg A94314D1-ADDC-4A1B-8E30-B63A298D17E3.jpeg
     
    Finnrodder and loudbang like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.