The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by southcross2631, Oct 28, 2020.
May have been posted previous , wanted to add it if not ..
Very cool picture. I hadn't seen that one before. Had forgotten he ran an A/FX car. He ran a lot of Super Stock stuff mostly Mopar's.
We will be testing tomorrow at Brainerd. Couldn't make the the SEGA race. Had to work tonight and then again on Sunday morning.
Finally got it running this morning. It sounds good just totally different than with the other cam.
It didn't turn over twice and it fired right up ,moved the dist. 2 degrees and called it good. We will start on 34 degrees of timing and see how it likes it.
It is supposed to be really hot so I leaned the carb out 2 jet sizes and don't want to get to frisky with the timing. We will see what it will do.
Best of Luck Mike! Hope you see some real improvements with this set-up!
we are home and nothing is broke. We have some personal bests ,but not where we need to be.
We run consistent and the mph was up, but still not nearly fast enough to compete with the top cars so it's back to square one.
We changed the cam and install it like the experts say to do it.Small gains when a big gain is what we need right now.
At least it didn't slow down. Keep swinging the axe.
Now much would the dual quad manifold set you back?
The way to find 100 horse power is 5 or 10 at a time.
Edit: I was thinking about this and I thought of my OT Mopar engines, one is 525 hp that could be duplicated for about 7k, the other produces 650 hp and cost twice as much.
Heads up racing = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ were is the enjoyment in that.
I actually had fun at the track yesterday not worrying about being a second too slow .
I made my qualifying passes and put my number on the window and won my first round and came back and ran a .21 on a .20 dial and got beat, so the driver was doing his job. Maybe tighten up on the reaction ,but that's just seat time.
Probably time to step back and just test for the next 2 months until I can figure this thing out.
I know that the rear shocks are not controlling the rear end good enough . I had my buddy stand behind the car and watch and he said it hopped about 3 times and then planted the tires. It felt like it was spinning ,not a violent hop like before. Still pulling the front wheels while it was doing that.
Got my 60 ft. times down to 1.69 need to be in the low 1.50's.
Mike, you have much more racing experience than I do, so please forgive a couple of questions.
Have you tried different air pressure in your slicks? That used to make a difference on my bracket car.
You have mentioned a dual quad set up, what would be the difference between that and a bigger single four barrel? Is it just more total CFM for the quads? I’m guessing you are running a Holley right now? How big? Would an 850 or 950 help?
It is a big step from mid to low 7's to high 6's, your going to have to fix the wheel hop problem first. Adding more power will just make it worse. Trying to pick up 5 tenth's
now will get costly.
What ^^^^^^^^^Dad said!
You can always try icing the intake between rounds..... advance/retard the cam timing....different jets....play with ignition timing to pick up a FEW more horses but....getting that chassis/launch down pat is the first BIG step!
We'll be watch'in ya!!!
I thought the chassis was all straightened out with the Calvert springs...
Work in progress,
My next step is to stop saying so much about what I am doing to my car until I make the changes and then go test and then make it public.
People are piling on me about not liking the SEGA. I like those guys a lot. My wallet is just not fat enough to open it up and pour out what it takes to be a competitive car.
You guys are right, I am going to fix the front end of the track before I work on the back end. Calvert 9 way adjustable rear shocks are the next step to improve my 60 ft. times before I worry about more power. I am almost there with the starting line. I could throw on a set of slapper bars and be there, but then there is that extra 100 lbs of weight penalty that goes along with them.
I could go out and spend $4500 for a Gforce transmission that has the right gear ratio in 1st gear so the car wouldn't be so violent when I drop the hammer. Any volunteers ??
I can't volunteer for the whole $4500.00 enchilada and I know its not much but I'm in for a C note towards the trans or whatever you want to apply it to. I had a '65 Falcon 2 dr. wagon with a T-10 and a hopped up 289 in HS. Thought I knew all there is to know about go fast 289's. Wrong. Anyway I'm enjoying the heck out of your efforts and really appreciate your posts. Kind of reliving days gone by through someone who is really racing, not just talking about it.
I would install the slapper bars and go test. The snubber will have to be right on the spring eye or you will bend that mono leaf. For me if the bars make the car leave like it should it would be worth the hundred lbs. or not ? I think you will find the shocks will not fix it. Looking at the rules the Crites bars would be the best choice in my mind for the 100 lb penalty . The Chrysler spring would be the best as there is no penalty for those. But even with the Chrysler springs on a stick car you will need the pinion snubber up against the floor. On a good working car you will drive the snubber through the floor pan. So reinforcing the floor with a piece of plate will be next. Decades ago guys would replace roll cage tubing with exhaust pipe, remove all the springs out of the seats ( Stock , SS ) and acid dip everything to get the weight out of the car. The rules leave the motor dept. wide open all you have to have is money. The biggest limiting factor that I see is the dual plane intake. Did Ford have any good cast iron intakes ? that would be a 50 lb break by running that. I have seen some nice porting on factory manifolds. I think it would be a safe bet to say everyone is cheating somehow, so you have to keep that in mind. You could do like Smokey Yunick and hide the NOS bottle and just have the line under the hood and spray the NOS out under the hood and let it find its way into the motor. lol. Keep posting your progress it looks to me like you have a lot of support here. Just for reference here is a photo of a pair of 002/003 Chrysler SS springs, the bottom spring is for the right side.You can see how Chrysler biased this spring to control axle wind up. You can buy these springs for less than $300. Something to consider.
The RPM Air Gap is a very good two plane, with a 1" spacer it will produce more torque and equal a Victor Jr. in hp.
The Calvert shocks are not double ajustable, here is a pair that is.
The rules say no Air gaps allowed.
That's too bad, then the standard RPM is probably the best, can they be ported?
I've got a 3.875 bore FT block and a couple of 3.5 inch FE cranks if you want to build a small FE motor, one of the cranks is stock, one has alot of work done to it.
That sounds interesting, old 330 build. Obviously more durable but can you build enough horsepower to offset all of that addition weight on the front of the car without breaking the bank? The small bore really limits valve size for great head flow. Sounds like a C/G build?
'Going outta-da-box" here......
anybody ever cut the top off a dual plane intake....just to see if.....stuff could be removed inside and still have the "look" of a dual plane?
I know there is more of a difference between the two than just passages.....! But......could a 'red-neck/home boy' version be made to pass tech AND boost HP?!
A two plane is limited by runner and planum volume, the additional torque that a two plane generates is from runner length.
I'm curious what carbs are used on that 2 4v manifold. I have a friend with a 67 Shelby GT 350 it has the Cobra 2 4v intake and Holley carbs, a pain in the ass but it looks cool and is a good conversation starter. He swears the car is no faster with it.
I bought parts from Summit last week and they shipped from TX and not Akron so what used to be free next day shipping turned into 4 business days. That may not affect you, I'm only about 3 hours from Akron.
I have tried the Chrysler spring route and I have a pinion snubber in the car now with zero clearance and a reinforced floor pan.
Other's might be cheating , but I will do it the right way or not at all. Maybe in my past when I was dirt track racing I would get a little creative with my use of the rules. Like I used to tell the tech guy my name isn't on any of the pages so it doesn't pertain to me.
I always thought a small cubic inch FE would be the way to go with the weight break. I have seen 352 Super Stock motors with stock rods turning 8 grand.
I have raced FE Super Stocks in the past. I had a 406 tri power 63 1/2 Galaxie in the 12's with a cast iron cruise a matic.
At 8.25 lbs per cubic inch a 370 inch FE would be a 100 lbs lighter than what I am now with aluminum heads.
I am going to finish the season with a Windsor and then all bets are off on what goes in the car for next year. I do know that Liberty will be faceplating my 2,3,4 gears this winter.
Todd will be sending you a PM so we can discuss small cube FE stuff.
A '62 Galaxie with T-10 & 406 tri-power has always been THE dream car for me, Mike. My first car was a '62 Galaxie. Always wanted a maxed-out one for a keeper but out of my price range for now. Maybe one day, if it's meant to be. Cheers.
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