Projects Southeast Gassers 65 Comet Super Stock Wagon

If you’re allowed to put it on backwards, you may want to. I recall an article in a mid to late 70’s HRM where the cowl induction reduced a muscle cars ET. The article assumed? It was because of the low pressure area allowing the engine to draw more air in. As we know, putting more fuel in is the easy part, hard part is getting more air. But if the flipped scoop is deemed cowl induction, it’s a moot point anyways

 

You may have to block off the hood scoop to get the desired results of getting more air in with the rear of the hood raised up.

 

Very nice

 

Technically it's just a scoop not a the hood.

 

I'd like to know when SS ever allowed non factory hood scoops.

 

When the Nostalgia Super Stock guys decided they wanted them. ;-)

 

I questioned the 440 six pack hood scoops on the Chevrolet cars at the last race and it got shoved under the rug.

 

Maybe I should force the issue and show up with one of those old Formula 5000 scoops. Weren't they on the old Chapparell cars in the 60's ?

 

McLaren.

 

Whatever ,it would force everyone to get a era correct scoop or they would just kick me out.

 

Those cowl induction setups worked on the Holden A9X Toranas in the '70s. Factory fitted.

 

Can you take it from the grille?

 

I can take it from the headlights now that I have cut a hole in the hood . It will allow me to build a taller air box. Let me get through the race in Ky with my new hood scoop and see if the mph picks up.
That's the true test if it is working. If not the scoop will be for looks and bigger air box and larger hoses will go to the carb after that.

 

Mike, I did a test on the ole Flat Out Falcon. It has a teardrop hood as you know, I taped some yarn on the back side of the teardrop where the vents are located. At speed, the yarn was still blowing towards the windshield, not getting pushed against the screen on the vent openings. My conclusion, the teardrop is pulling air from under the hood rather than pushing air to the carbs. The carbs are not sealed to the hood, so it could just be air blowing thru the radiator and then passing thru the teardrop vents. If you think of the thunderbolts, I'd assume the ford engineers only vented the teardrop to allow heat to escape, since they had separate ducts feeding the carbs. I don't expect it (the teardrop) to be an effective way to push air to the carbs just by the shape and it's kinda far from the cowl and windshield. Looks cool though.

One of my back burner projects has been making a steel forward facing scoop on the stock steel hood, and then running back to back tests at the track. But maybe I should also consider keeping the teardrop hood and but add an airpan and seal the carbs to the hood.

 

I remember reading an article in Hot Rod or one of the other mags years ago comparing front and rear opening scoops and airflow. I think if I remember right, for a reverse opening to be effective, it had to be close to the windshield, like a Chevy cowl induction scoop. Too far away, and the air simply flowed over the scoop and then hit the windshield. A forward facing scoop was most effective when the carb was sealed to the hood, but even then, placement was critical. Direct over the carb wasn’t always the best spot, sometimes closer to the front of the hood was optimal. I remember them using a clear tube with a colored liquid in it to seek the maximum pressure point. It was all scientific stuff, the airflow pushed the liquid in the tube which made a 90 upturn, when the highest level was obtained, that is where they placed the scoop. I’m sure there are places on the web to describe this better that I can.

 

That is a manometer. They are very easy to make CHEAP. Grab a length of clear 1 inch tube or SMALLER (smaller will react quicker)sufficient to go from the hood to inside the car with a u shape in it.

Tape one open end facing forward at the spot you want to measure. Make a "scale" on a piece of cardboard with marking on it like in the photo below.Run the hose into the car and make a loop in it like in the photo below. Pour a sufficient amount of water into the open end inside the car (add food coloring if you have trouble seeing the water).

Then make some runs or drive down the highway and see how much the water moves up.

Move the hood part to other spots on the hood if you want.

 

This is the seal for the hood to the carb.
We will see how good the scoop works

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I made this a while back, used it to measure the gas flow for my propane powered generator. It measures “Inches of Water” and you have to double the reading on the right side to get your correct pressure measurement.
Filled the hose with water and a few drops of red food coloring. Worked pretty good, found my problem. You can make it smaller, I just used what I had around. Never thought of using it to test my hood scoop on my Bonneville race car, going to try that for sure!

 

I can tell I'm getting out of racing and HP, you guys are hurting my head!

Pat

 

Pat
You will never get completely out, there will always be that little bastard sitting on your shoulder going "pssst, hey, look at this, come on, you know you want it".

 

I quit for 10 years and just couldn't get the same feeling from a good golf shot.

 

I just signed up for Frank Hawley’s Super Gas School at Maple Grove in August, need to find out if I have the huevos to go real fast at the drag strip.....
Nothing worse than being a squirrel when it’s serious!

 

When you try it make sure to raise the open end OFF the hood an inch or two. There is a "boundary layer" of disrupted air right over any flat surface with air flowing over it and it wreaks havoc with measurement of flow. The is why the Modified production guys had the snorkel of the scoop up off the hood and extended just a bit.

No math today @1934coupe Pat.

 

I cheat and use this.


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You may have to bring that to Indiana and hook it up to see how the airflow works with my scoop.
Had to work at th golf course today and I ha a few hours off before I had to go back so I snatched my toploader out and have it on the bench. Pulled the top and the 2nd gear lugs are worn so I will be filing them back into shape tomorrow. Hoping to make it through the season before I send the guts back to Liberty for some new parts.
Will take some pictures tomorrow to show you guys what I am doing. Have a chance to purchase a nice Hightower 4 speed from one of my fellow SEGA guys.
Just need to figure out where the $2500 is going to come from. Maybe start a go fund me page. Everybody else does it for their own needs, so why not me ?

 

Never bothered me to ask for sponsor moneys.

 

A regional circuit would require a regional sponsorship if it were commercial. Down here probably be fried chicken franchise or two Where's that rich Uncle when you need him?

Joe

 

I had The Huddle House franchise sponsorship for 12 years before my contact retired and sold his stores
Finding that one good one that will stick with you is like finding gold at the end of a rainbow.
Reach out racing is so much easier than reach back racing. Especially now that I am semi retired.
the Covid thing caused a lot of sponsor ship deals to be put on hold.
My wife and I will survive and we will make all of the SEGA races unless we have a serious failure.
That's why I am so nuts about between races maintenance . that way I can usually find a problem before it becomes a major breakdown. Simple things like changing the oil filter after every race so I can cut the filter apart and check for metal. It don't cost a lot of money for a filter and a qt of oil.
We always camp out in our tent at the races so we don't have motel and restaurant expenses. So our cost to go to the races is limited to gas for the truck and race fuel which so far has been reasonable .

 

This is what the lugs look like in my top loader. A little bit of filing and grinding after I take it apart and it will shift like new again for quite a while.
Time to get busy.

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If they letting them do that I would show up with a Rambler Scrambler hood scoop and see what they say. Haha