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Projects Southeast Gasser 50 chevy wheel stander project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Quain Stott, Feb 12, 2020.

  1. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 465

    AmishMike
    Member

    Be
    I Blieve u wrote earlier wanted to be able to remove body. Will floor & seat everything have to come apart to remove body?
     
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  2. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Yes it will be a big job to remove it but it will come off. I try to build everything where the body can be removed to ease in painting and welding on top of the roll bars and hard t get to places. It's a lot more work to make them removable but it always pays off down the road. I will take this one off to paint the chassis and roll bar.
     
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  3. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    I sneaked in a few hours tonight, worked on getting the rear end housing ready to mount under the truck. The housing I found for free was in a bad crash and was bent bad. I cut the tubes off at the edge of the center section. I squared them back up and welded back in place.
    I also had an old set of axles that had been laying around so I had to make the housing longer so the axles would work, plus I wanted it longer anyway so the tire would hang out from under the quarter like it would have been in the 1960's.
    I took a pic of the 2" long 3" X 3/16 wall tubing in the lathe while machining it flat. july 2.jpg
     
  4. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Here's the housing with the extensions held in place by my bar that I use to keep everything perfectly straight. There is no way to shorted or lengthen a housing right without a bar that goes through the 2 carrier bearing center lines and the axle bearing to keep the 3 lined up perfectly.
    I've seen people just square the housing ends up with the axle tube then weld them on. No way that can be right because the axle tubes are always out of line from welding that has been done on the housing. 90% of the cars are running around with the axle bearings running in a bind but the builder don't even know it. In a race car it's unwanted drag that robs ET. july 4.jpg july 3.jpg
     
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  5. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Not sure this thing will need a housing brace but I decided to put one on it just to be safe. It's .095 wall 1 1/2" mild steel tubing with a slight bend. I then cut it to fit and welded it on.
    Anyone that has followed any of my builds knows I always tig weld everything but will notice that most of this project is getting welded with a wire welder instead of the tig. As I said from the start this is just a throw together deal so no pains are being taking to make perfect fits or perfect parts. July.jpg july 5.jpg
     
  6. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 685

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    I can't wait for this to run, I was at Moorseville and won't be able to make it again till Knoxville and then I should see em all the way to finals. Hopefully you will be debuting it this year.
     
  7. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    If all goes right it should be out before the season is over.
    Thanks for supporting the Southeast Gassers and I look forward to seeing you in Knoxville.
     
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  8. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Got lucky and scored a nice 468 big block for $2,500. It's a big oval port open chamber iron head. It had modern valve covers on it but I wouldn't even let it in my shop until we changed to old school M/T valve covers. I have another intake also that is more 1960's style that I plan to change even tho the one on it would perform better.
    We set the engine in to test fit and get the drive line angle right so the rear end housing could be tacked in. truck 6.jpg
     
  9. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Once we double checked the drive line angle we were ready to tack the housing to the frame brackets.
    I have always said getting the drive line angle right is one of the most important but the most over looked parts of building any type car. I've seen some drive line angles that wouldn't make it 60 foot if the car had any power. This thing was a real trick having to line up two drive shafts and get the right u joint angle on 4 u joints. In the pics we have shafts in place to figure the angles to be sure they are perfect before tacking the housing. The angle from the v drive to the transmission out put shaft was figured earlier in the thread when we mounted the engine and transmission. truck 1.jpg truck 2.jpg truck 3.jpg
     
  10. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Earlier in the build we made the housing to frame brackets from 1/4 mild steel plate. The 3 mounting holes were drilled in the frame then a bushing was welded in the frame so the bracket's could be super tight because this will be the only thing holding the housing in place. truck 5.jpg
     
  11. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    I always sandwich a shim of about .010 between any double shear brackets no matter what before welding in place. The brackets will flex the extra .010 when the bolt is tight but will flex back open when loosened so you don't have to have a hammer and beat the parts up to get them in or out later for mantance. I see people under cars at the track beating the transmission cross member and such in and out with a hammer because they didn't know this little trick when building the car. Even when doing a quick budget build like this, it still only takes an extra second to do it right. truck 4.jpg
     
  12. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    The old Geritol crew looking on as the young guy (Gabriel Burrell) is trying to look in the spark plug hole to see how much dome is on the piston. We didn't get any specs with the engine so don't really know what we got. It is a new build just been setting for a long long time, so we are trying to figure out what what's in there LOL. It does have a pretty good dome but will need to since it's open chamber heads. We guessing about 400 HP. That will be really good for just $2,500 and it came with a lot of extra parts.

    For you younger guys Geritol was a medication for old over the hill people, everybody that works at Stott's Speed Shop is old and over the hill, so the young guys call us the Geritol crew.

    truck.jpg .
     
  13. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Note the engine is tilted down hill in the front where normally an engine would be level to several degrees angle down in the back to make the drive line angle right. Since this truck will spend most of it's life at a 45 degree angle or more with the wheels in the air we sort of tried to split the difference so the engine could oil right while in the air with out spending the money for a high dollar oil pan. Plus the carburetor can't stand that much angle for a 1/4 or 1/8 mile run. Since we are using the v drive we could alter the drive line angle where in a normal front engine rear wheel drive car we wouldn't have that option and would have to mount the engine so the drive line angle would be right. truck 6.jpg
     
  14. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 5,157

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Quain, I always use thin spacers on double shear brackets as well, to allow for paint and ease of assembly. Another thing I do on removable items, like the center of trans crossmembers, is to cant the brackets, so they drop out easy. Will this truck have turning brakes ? If so, will it will utilize a hand throttle. Looks like a fun project ! IMG_4675.JPG
     
  15. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

     
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  16. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    I hate radiator mounts that are welded to the chassis and not removable. Even when the radiator is out they are always in the way so I always make them removable.
    Here I took a piece of 1" X .125 wall square tube and cut an angle. monday 11.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2020
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  17. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Clean the edges and file out the seam of the 1" X .125 wall tubing and it's a perfect fit over 1/2 squire tubing monday 12.jpg
     
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  18. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Now weld them to the cross bar that will go from frame rail to frame rail and it makes a nice radiator mount that will be out of the way when doing mantance. monday 10.jpg monday 9.jpg
     
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  19. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 10,722

    AHotRod
    Member

    Great tip Quain, Thank you so much !
     
  20. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    A neat but simple and quick way to bolt all of this mess together is to use threaded nutserts that work a lot like a rivet. On a high dollar build I would make bushings and weld them in but a hurry up budget build like this I'm taking these sort of short cuts.
    This group of pics will go through the process of drilling and installing the nutserts monday 8.jpg monday 7.jpg monday7.jpg monday 6.jpg monday 4.jpg monday 5.jpg
     
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  21. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    3 equally spaced threaded bushings on each side to mount the radiator to. monday 3.jpg
     
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  22. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Same nutserts to bolt the removable stands to the stationary cross member that will be welded in later.
    The welded on mount will only get a 1/4 hole for the bolt. Another netsert will be installed in the removable stand. monday 2.jpg
     
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  23. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    I picked up a cheap swap meet radiator but it had a bunch of random holes drilled in the mount so I welded them up and sanded them back down to like new condition so I could drill my holes and make them look a little better. I also cleaned up the rough edges on the mount. The radiator will be painted black, an aluminum radiator is a bad eye sore in a 1960's style build. monday 1.jpg monday.jpg
     
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  24. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    I use these little punches that fit into the threaded insert to locate the hole in the radiator side mount. I have these for most any size hole. I'm guessing they are about 35 years old, I have had them that long and I think I bought them used. For more precision work I machine a point on a bolt head and then screw it tight into the hole for a perfect transfer with no slop. tues.jpg
     
  25. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    The finished radiator mount with the radiator painted to look a little more like it would have looked in 1967. tues 2.jpg
     
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  26. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Radiator mount welded in, another small project marked of the list. tues 8.jpg
     
  27. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Like everything else on this project I found a junk set of headers for near nothing. Of course they don't fit right so we changed the rear tube on each side.
    Didn't worry about tuning to the right length because it's not that important on something that has no completion. Even not trying they are not off much tho. tues 5.jpg tues 4.jpg
     
  28. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    Had a little boo-boo on the mid mounts. We built them before we had the headers so of course we put them in the wrong place. It's easier to remake the mid mount's than build a set of headers so we trashed the first mid mounts and whipped two news ones. Had to change the frame mount also, still have to make frame mounts at this point. tues 6.jpg tues 9.jpg
     
  29. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    If y'all noticed the cut outs in the roof above the rear window it's where we was planning to put the roll bar through to stiffen up the back chassis. We made the bars and I just didn't like the look of them so another mistake and we trashed them. But I still have the problem of it being to weak in the back so we made a double rail under the chassis from the back to about 1/2 way up. There's going to be a few more uprights when finished. 7-22 10.jpg 7-22 9.jpg 7-22 3.jpg
     
  30. Quain Stott
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 1,999

    Quain Stott
    Member

    We set the bed on it to get a look at what kind of room we have to mount the gas tank and things like that. Oh yea the intake will be changed for a more correct dual plane 1960's era intake. 7-22 2.jpg
     

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