i need to do something to get rid of the "tin can" effect inside the doors on my 34 coupe. i've read dozens of old posts, nothing specific to the problems of doing doors. you cant really spray in there, you cant roll out some sticky mat, the access openings hardly allow you to see in there. i recently dumped a 1/3 of a quart of POR 15 inside and just rolled the door around to get it spread out. i'd like to do the same with something that is fluid enough to run all over. lizard skin seems to be the favorite, but how thick is it? can it be thinned? what else has anyone used? thanks
During the reconstruction of my Comet (avatar) we installed Lizard Skin sound and heat (two different products) on both sides of the floor pan, inside the 1/4 panels, under the roof, firewall, and inside the doors. After application real difference was noticed, no more “tin” sound, instead a deep “thump”. I will be able to report more on the heat part of the product after the car hits the road.
I often wondered about using duct liner from an HVAC company. Has anyone tried this??? I work for an HVAC company and what we throw out each day would be enough to do a couple cars. Duct liner has two purposes. One is to stop condensation in air conditioning ducts and the other to acoustics.
Short of cutting an access hole, this is about the easiest way. You don't really need to cover the entire inside of the panel. A 1" square piece of boom mat will deaden a drum cymbal.
yep, i've seen that stuff, got about an hour of googleing today! the other problem with spraying is the window channels are welded in as the door is built on these old fords. dont want any gook in those channels, or on the surface where the riser and latch mount. thats why i would really like to pour it in and slosh it around. i know it wont be an acoustic masterpiece, but something is better than nothing. just looking for a product that can be thinned, or is thin to start
I'm sure you could pour some lizard skin in there and spread it around enough to get the results you're wanting.
Use the Dynamat style insulation. Lots of brands Fat Mat, Dyna Mat, Kil Mat etc. It's a game changer. Plus it doesn't get all over everything. Just google sound or vibration dampening insulation.
i'm sure the mats are a wonderful product, i looked at them all today. here's a pic of the door, its 3"deep at the deepest place in an access hole and then where the channels are there would be about an inch to wiggle sticky mat underneath without getting stuck where you dont want it! well, my thoughts any way, never done it, but it sure was easy to pour the paint in and slosh it around. need thin undercoating stuff i think
The car audio brigade has a lot of products to use inside of doors including some pads about the size of large scotchbrite pads that you stick to the inside of the door sheet metal in strategic spots and or patterns to cut down on that effect you are getting.
Keep in mind that you don't need full coverage for mat type sound deadener to be effective. The surface needs to be fairly clean for the mat to adhere, a fresh coat of POR-15 should do the trick. LOL - Roothawg treed me...
Lay the door horizontal, outer skin side up, support it around the edges with chairs, stands, whatever, so you can lay on your back under it. Small squares, strips, any shape will work, about a square foot should be enough to make the door go "thud" instead of "bong". Before peeling the backing, slide a piece into the door, it will lay on the inner panel., do a dry run to make sure you can slide it to where you want it. Then remove the piece, peel half of the backing, fold it over the unpeeled side, slide piece into position. stick the peeled side to the outer skin, peel the rest of the backing off and stick the rest in place. More easily done without glass, mechanisms in place.
mr half dozen, yes, i had thought about that, its doable i suppose, but i know from having my arm inside to run around with a scotch pad, you dont see any thing at that point, its brail system at that point. i do plan to have a radio in this jalopy, never had one in an old car before, so some real insulation factor would be a plus. the small pads mr 48 chev mentioned would be a thought. do the sticky ones actually stay stuck, or fall off on a hot day? any favorite brands?
I've used Second Skin insulation in the on my Model A's, foil with a sound deadener/insulation ,about 1/4" thick. Takes the tinny sound out of the body, peel off the backing paper, lay it down and go over it with a roller. Used it on the inside of the body and floors, hard to see in the doors.
lizzard skin web site says "thinning with water not recommended, if you must thin it contact us", but , the phone has been busy all day!
granted, a Model A has more room for acces, my former'35 didn't so here's what I tried. Went to Home Depot and bought a roll of the thin gray stuff with a pull off backing, about 6" wide. When she wasn't looking, I borrowed the wife's widest roll of wax paper and cut sheets to fit inside the door. Cut the gray stuff as long as I thought I could manage, peeled enough of the backing off so I could reach it to pull and slid it over the wax paper. Pulled wax paper enough to get a corner of the gray stuff stuck to the door the worked the wax paper and backing paper off a bit at a time. Took a while and I didn't get 100% coverage, ran the seams or spacing top to bottom. Black paint outside and never came off in the sun. Oh, don't put the wax paper back in the closet.
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