I searched and read every inline/T5 thread I could find. But I'm still unclear on one thing. I have a clutch setup out of (I think) a 54 Chevy truck with a 235. The pressure plate is unusable, and of course I can't reuse the clutch disc. I'd like to replace these items with something late model (Astro/S10). Here is my question, Is there a modern replacement for the pressure plate in which I will NOT have to re-drill the flywheel? My pressure plate measures just over 10 1/2" and and the bolt centers are around 4 1/4" on center. Any help? Thanks. Joe
I swapped a T-5 into my '53 3100 that had a later 235. I used the existing original design pressure plate (had maybe 2000 mi on it, basically new), and a clutch disc from a S-10. The clutch plate was fine splined because the T-5 was out of a V8 Camaro, and I grafted an S10 tailshaft on it so that the shifter would clear the bench seat. If I remember correctly, my pressure plate was around 10", and the clutch plate was slightly smaller, maybe 9 1/2". The engine was bone stock, so I wasn't worried about the slightly smaller clutch disc. Go to a good auto parts store or a an engine builder that also can get parts (that's what I did) and see if they can locate you a clutch disc that matches the spline pattern of the tranny's input shaft and that comes close (or matches) the diameter of your pressure plate. Good luck... Chris
"Here is my question, Is there a modern replacement for the pressure plate in which I will NOT have to re-drill the flywheel?" Anyone???
What's a modern PP? the one in the pic looks good to me. hit it with a 36 grit disc to get rid of the rust and you're good to go. Technology hasn't changed on pressure plates.
FYI.....due to the S 10 T-5 being metric.....the input shaft is 3 thousand smaller that original chevy input shaft...I used a S-10 pilot bushing ..the od was the same the ID was metric....not doing this may cause a vibration in 5th gear....my 2 cents
Hey if you want a new pressure plate you mostlikely are going to have to buy an entire new clutch kit from a parts store. Go to your local part store and pick one up for the 1954 truck or get one matched for a 1965 chevy small block product. The pressure plates I think will be the same. The clutch that you get in the kit you will not use because the splines will not match up with your new clutch for your T5 so you can sell it or hang it up on the wall. This is the only way I think you are going to get a new pressure plate. I ran into the same problem when I went from a muncie 4 speed to a tremec 5 speed. I had 2 year old clutch and pressure plate that I was running in the car and when I switched to the Tremec 5 speed I used my 2 year old old pressure plate from my muncie clutch kit with a new T5 clutch that I bought from a local clutch rebuilder. Hope that helps man Jay
I guess by "modern", I meant one I can go down to the local auto parts store and they will have in stock. If you saw the other side of the PP, you would know why it needs rebuilt. 1/2 of the "fingers" are flopping in the breeze.
The answer is no, I've never seen a late model pressure plate that will just bolt up to a 6 volt era flywheel. Also based on my experiences, I have never had an issue with using the standard pilot bushing. A bad pilot bushing usually manifests itself as a form of clutch chatter on take off, not driveline vibration going down the highway.
My parts house (Standard Auto Parts) agrees that you will just have to buy a kit in order to get that pressure plate. A loose pilot bushing can cause internal wear in the trans at the point where the input shaft and output shaft meet to the tune of a couple dozen needle bearings. How this internal damage manifests itself is irrelevant, but can probably show up as clutch chadder, driveline vibrations, and/or even missed shifts or jumping out of gear. A new bushing is CHEAP insurance and just a prudent thing to do.
They're in either 6 I have. They are in the cars. I can't measure. I don't know why yours would be different, it's not a ford. Take your old plate and match it with the new. That's what I did.
A note about pilot bushings. The old transmissions, 3 speed, Muncie , Saginaw had a ball bearing to support the input shaft in the trans case. These were very forgiving of loose pilots and misaligned bells. The T-5 has a nice roller bearing in the front of the case. And needs preload to keep it in position and loaded properly and is not tolerant of misalignment and loose pilot bushings. There are shims under the bearing retainer to adjust the preload. If the input shaft is flopping around you need to shim tighter for preload. Ask me how I know The Astro disc is 11", or some metric equivilent and might not fit in your 10 1/2 PP. But any of the smaller 9 5/8 discs will be fine in there. There are now specialty discs that are 10", I think Speedway, for one sells them.
There was a brake and clutch jobber in Omaha. He has since closed. I would look for the same kind of company in St. Louis. I'm looking at my reciept from when I bought the last set and it does not show the manufacturer. I'll try to find you a source, get back to you this after noon.
Talk to Sam at Rochester Clutch and Brake. He can make up any disk with whatever center you like. He ships anywhere. They are closed Friday - Sunday (585) 232-3717
After reading this thread about pilot bushings I'm a little worried. I just installed an 86 Camaro T5 with S10 tailshaft on my 235. I picked up a new clutch disc from Speedway, but I didn't replace the pilot bushing. I don't have the truck on the road yet, but it sounds like I might run into problems down the road if I don't replace it with a metric ID bushing. Anyone know a part# for just the pilot bushing? Thanks.
I have 2 T-5's running on Chevy's with non metric pilot bushings. Both are fine. .003 extra clearance an issue? I don't know. What about the OD on the metric ones? Is that the same as the inch version??????
again, been running a standard pilot bushing with a T5 for 10 years without a problem. Several others doing the same. No problems.
Fort Wayne Clutch in INdiana will build you a PP or rebuild yours and provide you with all the corresponding parts T.O bearing etc.
Ok, sounds like opinions go both ways on the pilot bearing. Since everything is all buttoned up I think I'll just run it like it is and see what shakes out - hopefully nothing.
The company moved, I found them. I can get you the #5472 pressure plate, $84.10 plus the ride. Let me know if that works for you. You pilot bushing asses should stop stealing threads. Read the original posted question.