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Hot Rods Solid Lifters

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HOTRODPRIMER, Aug 13, 2018.

  1. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 4,562

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If your buying any lifters make sure they not Chinese junk. Get good stuff....
     
    Truck64, HOTRODPRIMER and Glenn S like this.
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 2,241

    Budget36
    Member

    Not sure about using a gauge, but I only adjusted my lifters with a warmed up engine and running. I've a few sets of curled feeler gauges to prove it:)

    I always figured (and how I was taught) that if you tried to adjust them with a warm engine, as you progressed, the engine would be cooler and the gap would not be the same.

    Made sense to me.

    On my 218 I rebuilt and similar engines where I couldn't adjust them while running, I set them loose by .003 cold. Seemed to work fine.

    Now, disregard if you're dealing with a performance engine, no experience with that.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  3. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,427

    classiccarjack
    Member

    My slant six and flatheads are all solids. I love the sound!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  4. aussie57wag
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 233

    aussie57wag
    Member
    from australia

    All ford y-block have them stock. I had a windsor with them. Adjusted annually. All was good.

    Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  5. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 3,557

    jnaki

    Hey HRP,

    Since it was hard to compete against the big stock 335 hp/4 speed Impalas in late 1959, early 1960, we stopped competing in A/Stock. We had a distinct 55 HP disadvantage and that was hard to make up as a stock car. So, we were finished with the A/Stock car class at Lions Dragstrip.


    We installed a Racer Brown Cam and solid lifters in our 348/280 HP motor of our 58 black Impala. It was worth it for the extra horsepower. If we were to leave a little late off of the starting line, it certainly had enough extra power to catch up and pass before the 1/8th mile marker for the win in the 1/4 mile races.
    upload_2018-8-15_3-48-27.png
    It was my job to get out the thin, tuning gap strips, the ratchet and make sure those lifters were absolutely quiet and running well. It took some time adjusting all of those rocker arms. But, when it was all done, the motor was as quiet as the stock hydraulic lifters.

    Since no one knew we changed cams, the drive-in crowd only heard the fine quiet tune of the solid lifters acting as hydraulic lifters. But, the performance was like night and day. The Cherry Avenue drags did not have a chance.


    If the solid lifters got used a lot, they started making some noise. Then we knew it was time to adjust all of those rocker arms again for silent running. The Racer Brown Cam instructions told us that would provide top tuning and run well. So, raise the hood and get all of the paraphernalia ready for the late night tuning in the backyard concrete pad.



    Jnaki

    I distinctly remember a hook drop light and removal of one of the chrome valve covers to do the adjusting on the concrete driveway. A bedspread on the black fender and a canvas cloth was under the car to keep my mom satisfied that it was clean work. Then the whole operation went to the other chrome valve cover, etc. In our neighborhood, the air was silent. The motor chattered before and during the tuning periods.
    upload_2018-8-15_3-49-5.png
    But by the time I finished late at night, it was quiet running for the top tune. It gave us lots of extra power we did not have in the stock configuration. By 1961, I decided to put on a small Racer Brown Cam sticker on the lower rear window. That was the view our opponents always saw... that and the 6 red tail lights flashing for the win.
     
    Old-Soul, Budget36 and HOTRODPRIMER like this.
  6. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 782

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    If your running anything but an LS engine Solid lifters are a must. Hydraulic lifters pump down and you lose the cam profile after the engine gets heat in it. If we do any sort of hot rod engine it gets solid flat tappet or solid roller in it. The whole you have to set valves all the time is a myth. If you run a good stainless steel roller rocker or shaft rockers you set them once a season and they will stay put, run good ARP studs and Poly locks with a stud girdle.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  7. rhtfo
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 36

    rhtfo

    Hell's fire, men. How you call yourselves Hot Rodders if you haven't set valve lash on your favorite hot rod motor ! Like a right of passage, or at least it was for us graybeards. HRP, it's your ride, time, and money. Try set'n em and see what you think. I learned from my uncle who worked in a chevy dealership and became their "corvette guy" from 1958 to bout 64. He taught me the feeler gage way, although the dealership had a P&G. He said doctors, lawyers, n business types bought those new vettes and no way would they put up with bring n in that new toy every week or even every month to fix valve noise. Once it's set, it should stay set for bout a year or so. Component wear or improper setting is your problem if less. Remember, you haven't lived till you cut the top off a valve cover, bolted it on, fired that hot rod up and set that lash .... well, maybe you have. Have fun, keep us posted

    Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  8. I run Y-Blocks, Flatheads and Bangers. Nuf ced.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER and 32Dan like this.
  9. As I said earlier, solid lifters in a overhead valve engine is new to me, I have had Flatheads. HRP
     
    mctim64 likes this.
  10. I have built a number of engines for other people with solids that could have been hydraulic. They work very well and will certainly rev better. The trick to not having to adjust them constantly is getting them to lock in place. With stud mounted rockers use tower nuts with set screws. Set them and make the screws tight, you wont have to mess with them till the exhaust seats beat in and close the gap.
     
    RmK57 and Truck64 like this.
  11. Schwanke Engines
    Joined: Jun 12, 2014
    Posts: 782

    Schwanke Engines
    Member

    We set them in Over lap on most stuff, but on the big 900+ lift Sprint car stuff we set them 1 up 1 down. A lot of the stuff now with rules as tight on lift and what not a lot of stuff is set either Zero lash or even 1-3 thousandths negative lash, so it gets to Zero with heat.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 3,448

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Have NOS rockers installed now, but wondered about the Y Block single screw rocker arms. If the screws get a little too loose, some Blue Loctite wouldn't hurt a thing would it?
     
  13. I have three cars all with solid lifters, My 34' Ford w/ blown 371 Olds, Isky roller cam,41' Ford convertible w/ 324" Olds, &Chet Herbert cam and my OT Comet GT w/ 66' Shelby 289", w/ General Kinetics cam from my late (don't ask me) GT350.
     
    Deuces likes this.
  14. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 1,902

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    I am. Came with the engine. Works, so no real reason to change it. Would go roller if I needed a replacement though.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  15. Rat.Patrol
    Joined: Aug 15, 2018
    Posts: 5

    Rat.Patrol

    I’m about to install some in my 283 with a Elgin Race cam.
     
  16. zzford
    Joined: May 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    zzford
    Member

    Hydraulics for me. I turned wrenches for some 45 years and have adjusted more valves than I care to remember. I'm too damn old to do any more work than I have to.
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  17. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,072

    54vicky
    Member

    I have them in my 54 239 I do not think noisy at all if set right
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  18. fordf1trucknut
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,061

    fordf1trucknut
    Member

    I have them in my ford striker motor in this f1.

    004-2.jpg
     
  19. Gregg Pellicer
    Joined: Aug 20, 2004
    Posts: 1,346

    Gregg Pellicer
    Member

    Solids in my 283 with a 097 Duntov cam in my roadster thumbnail (3).jpeg
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  20. Fireball Five
    Joined: Oct 5, 2018
    Posts: 53

    Fireball Five

    Old&Fast, A couple questions: What is a P&G? Also, Is there a protocol for using a late hyd. cam on early pre-49 lifters? Or not to? We ran a reground Crane hyd. cam on used solids for 10 years with no trouble except oil pump drive gear on cam was looking pretty shaggy from pushing 50wt. Kendall GT1 plus STP thru a full flow filter and cooler at 70 p.s.i.. I sort of answered my own question but I did read somewhere that one series was made of chilled cast iron and the other of something else and not compatible.
    Re: P&G, If that makes setting lash easier I want one as we always set lash hot and running and that's right under a set of megaphone pipes at 2000 r.p.m.. Lowest smooth idle is 2500 with the Crane F302 Hi Cam.
    RE: Spiral cam gear, I saw an old dealer directive that advised drilling and mounting a very small pipe into the side of block to squirt oil on cam/pump gear, fed from a plug on main oil gallery.
    An item in my bucket list is to build one more modded 320 so I am looking for a set of solid lifters and a 3 speed standard bell housing for a 320.
    Thanks, Fireball 5

    P.S. If anyone has a set of solids in a block I will tell you how to modify a tool to pull them out without driving them from bottom.
     
  21. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 4,562

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I saw an old dealer directive that advised drilling and mounting a very small pipe into the side of block to squirt oil on cam/pump gear, fed from a plug on main oil gallery.

    Been doing that for years on my 302 GMC6's. Fitting is where the bypass filter drained back into the crankcase. I soldered up a fitting and drilled a .060" hole at a angle and squirted at the gears. The pressure came from a tee which fed the rocker arms.
     
  22. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 4,833

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  23. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 4,833

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  24. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 3,448

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Search "P&G Valve Gapper" and should get some info.

     
    David Gersic likes this.
  25. alfin32
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,306

    alfin32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Essex, Ma.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg Switched to solids in my 331", after two failed sets of cheap, Chinese hydraulics.
    I wouldn't want to try to have to adjust them if they were buried in an engine compartment though.
     
  26. Fireball Five
    Joined: Oct 5, 2018
    Posts: 53

    Fireball Five

     
  27. Fireball Five
    Joined: Oct 5, 2018
    Posts: 53

    Fireball Five

     
  28. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 3,448

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Bears repeating.
     
  29. Fireball Five
    Joined: Oct 5, 2018
    Posts: 53

    Fireball Five

    More Lashing !
    I just remembered I have this little tool that makes adjusting much easier.
    It holds a 1/2 drive socket at a right angle to loosen or tighten lock nut. On top is a finger knob
    with a light spring under it you push down to engage its straight screw driver end into adjusting
    screw. Plus or Minus a little then snug nut with the hand holding the tool while the other hand holds the finger knob.
    I usually back nuts off but leave a little bit snug with engine off. Then set lash & stop engine to tighten
    lock nuts while things are still and quiet .
    Torquing nuts may change lash a few tens of tees but you can compensate by leaving a little heavier
    feel on gauge the first time thru.

    FireBall 5
     

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