Hot Rods Softening the ride on a straight axle

I bought the whole setup from CE, but it sat pretty high. I still have the spring on the shelf.

 

Like Pete said, I prefer to use Ford springs whenever I can. I usually end up with about 8 leafs in the front of the fat fendered Fords.

 

When you put the spring on the shackles and perches and mounted to the bones - could you do all that easily by hand without spreading/flattening the spring?

Was there any info with either spring that stated what the perch centers should be? If so are you close?

 

What "ford" spring would you use on an aftermarket narrow axle with spring in front and split bones that were then bent for parallel alignment?

At a minimum you'd need a correct length main leaf custom made and a shorter second leaf then you could use factory ford leaves.

 

Chris, I'm betting that you are creating a binding situation with the sway bar on the front. Take a few minutes and remove the links on it and take it for a short ride and see if there is a different feel to it. The Posies springs that I have used have always rode nicely, but they are a lot flatter than the CE spring that the sway bar was designed to be used with.

If that makes the ride better, then you will more than likely need to shorten the sway bar links, so that the sway bar is more parallel to the ground, and reinstall them.

 

Also, I can't remember if you are running bump stops, but I had to remove the stock ones on my 40s and on the 37 sedan that I had.

 

Seems you answered your own question. when I need a modified spring, I have the main leaf shortened (rerolled) & I shorten the second leaf. If I want a reversed eye, I flip the main leaf over & re-arch it.

 

X2-do the same

 

....................Never even dawned on me that you could do that. That's why I love this place, learn something new every day...........Thanks.

 

...This is why Pete Eastwood is one of the hot rod gods...not just because he has an awesome name.

 

Gas filled shocks do make a difference.

 

Totally agree... on my '35 I'm running stretched '35 axle, flipped and re-arched stock mainleaf, and an un-split wishbone (283 SBC and '39 trans). BUT... I'm considering adding a CE Front Sway Bar (SB3536F) and/or a Pete & Jakes Panhard Bar (1015).

Just wondering what your experiences are with front Sway and Panhard bars?

 

Someone mentioned to me the other day that the sway bar bolts look too long. Do they need to be parallel to the ground instead of running uphill like mine?

EDIT### Sorry Bret, I thought that was on a text you sent me, didn't realize it was right above.

 

My brother called them "Super Sag".

 

The "arms" should be close to parallel to the ground. You may be introducing some bind with this configuration. easy enough to fix.

 

The CE sway bar works really well on my '37.

 

Pete, I am building a 46 tudor. It sits too high. I think my simplest route is to reverse the eye, remove one intermediate, and one short leaf, and possibly lengthen the shackles. You make "re-arching" sound so simple.
Who does this and what are the costs? I have already used the poly spring liners.
I know that Posies makes a super slider, but I would like to use what I already have.
thanks, dave-TX

 

Not quite as easy as falling off a log, buy it's pretty close if you have a press. Then you don't have to make one from a bottle jack

 

So Chris, did ya ever take that sway bar loose and take it for a spin? I can't remember if you are running bump stops, but if so, you may wanna pull those out and see if that helps too. You can always either shorten them or buy shorter ones to replace them.

 

No, I have been consumed with life right now. I am taking a few days off over Memorial day. Maybe, I can get something done then.

 

The spring eyes can be reversed at any good sheet metal shop with a set of rollers. Mark the arch on the floor and run through the rollers until you get the opposite arch desired.

 

Yep, I'm betting that Posie spring dropped the front beyond the travel of the swaybar.

Easy fix to shorten the links.

Rich

 

Several threads on here about re-arching/reversing springs on here.
But post 51 would be a better suggestion.