Here's a better look at the rear radius bar. Where it comes out from under the body there's only about an inch gap from body to the top of the radius rod, so I'm guessing there would need to be body modification as well to get it up high enough to be above the scrub line? Which speaking of, yes the frame sits below the scrub line based on the rear wheel. Keeps getting better right Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well, this is looking like the end of the line for now. Seems she needs some extensive work that's beyond my current skill set.... and budget . Unless someone needs a website designed or some photography work they want to trade services for lol. Recently buying your first home doesn't leave a lot left for the toys. Many thanks to everyone for all the insanely good info. This forum is amazing for us who are just starting out in this world. My issues might not be fixed but at least now I know what they are, why they're an issue, and steps to remedy them (for the most part). She'll be back on the road (safely) someday. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I really appreciate that man. It's frustrating to say the least, but you guys are helping keep me sane haha. Definitely a learning experience on multiple fronts. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
this thing just needs some love and compromise, a few parts. Most likely ( still haven't seen a full on side shot) the truck is just too low to be of any good or enjoyable to drive it safely. You could chrome the whole thing and trailer it around. So if you can compromise some on the ride height that will be a step in the right direction. Up front you have several options, and it may need a combination of all. The builder here combined every trick to drop it down, raised center spring mount, spring on top of the mount , dropped shackle perch, dropped axle and then just for added bonus the wrong spring. Given the spring change is likely to lower the ride height even further, one of the other "tricks"'will need to be undone - the easiest would be to put the spring under mount. But that still leaves a scrub issue at the shackles so that's where you need to correct first. Easy peazy The rear, the deep Z needs to be undone. That was most likely too much beer calculated any way.
I need to get my skill set to the level that all this sounds easy haha. Truck is definitely low and I'm ok with bringing it up some to make it more comfortable, and more importantly, safer to drive. Here's a good side shot: Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
LnL; I may have missed it, can you weld? I mean w/o bubblegum/boogers. No disrespect. An old style ac arc welder (buzzbox) will do. Dc arc, mig, too. When I did my 1st hotrod , I did a lot of ac arc (buzzboz) (in early 70's). Welded it fairly hot, had to clean up slag n spatter, but safe & fairly nice afterwards. If you can do this, a tape measure, small grinder, hacksaw, n welder will fix the frames' issue(s), including the spring mounting(s) & lowness. I'd really do different locating bars - for a lot of reasons. Those can be done after the frame-fix. It isn't seriously hard, just needs care & elbow grease. Did you actually run costs by 31Vic? Good luck anyways. Marcus...
Actually I was just gifted a mig welder, works perfectly fine, I'm gonna be buying a tank next week. But I'm just now learning to weld and don't want to have critical safety items reliant on rookie welds. But eventually I'll get there. We've been discussing some cost, but with just buying my first home I dont have a lot of extra play money. But I need to contact him bc I think best bet is for me to load the truck on a trailer, head north, and let him check this thing out for real. See what we're dealing with then. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been reading this post form the beginning and I've definitely learned a few things from it. My next project will be this type of suspension ,does anyone no of a good book that covers the basics. I know my way around the A arm coil spring just fine but all this is pretty new to me. Not sure if this question considered a hijack but it seemed appropriate for the content. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Conventional leaf spring knowledge that can be applied to 4x4 pickups does not apply. Calculating spring rates by standard means and published theories does not apply. De-arching springs, removing leafs, reversing spring eyes makes the springs longer. All Published EYE to EYE measuments without the arch height are useless as well as methods of measuring. Some of the suppliers are completely wrong on their springs. Different than what you asked for but that is a great start on a "what not to do" list which is sometimes more valuable than anything.
And yet another bit of info that I didn't know that's super helpful. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sure , Some times looking at an extreme example is easier to understand, then scale it back to get a handle on it. Try this: Let's make a spring and to start We need a total length of the spring eye to eye along the curve in order to cut it. FS&G The eye to eye is 31". How long is it? No clue without the arch height right? First lets say the arch is 10 miles high and the eye to eye is 31" low long is it? 20 miles and a few inches right. So let's say it's 1 mile high well it's 2 miles long and a few inches. Considerably different because the arch height is different. So let's scale it back now 31" eye to eye with a 10" arch height - or 31" with a 7" arch height - or 31" with a 5" arch height. Each spring is a different length along the curve, each one of those is a different total length because they have to be. Why it's important::::: If you were to flatten them for the mounting preload doesn't each one of those grow in the straight line eye to to eye ? If you start removing leafs and reducing the arch to soften them won't they grow eye to eye. Ok how much does it grow? The amount of arch is proportional how much the eye to eye will grow. What you want to end up with,,, completely built,,,, at full weight is main leaf spring if with reversed eyes with about 1" arch height ( 2" for standard eye) AND the shackles at 45* you need both or it will ride like shit. The shackle angle is your "meter" a tool for no better word to measure the balance of the spring's rate and load on the spring. When they are balanced it rides like butter.
Leaf springs are super easy to dial in the perfect ride. No need to waste money on new springs just remove leaves to soften the ride . This lessens the spring rate for a better ride. If your really have 10 leaves in the front then remove half of the short and mid length leaves . 5 leaves is about right. In the rear you can go to 3 or 4 leaves. By playing with the number and length of the remaining leaves you can fine tune the ride. Do not use gas shocks or it will still ride hard even with half the stack. Use very short cheap hydraulic shocks and pay attention to to how you are mounting them so you have a couple of inches of compression and extension .After you dial in the spring rate the car may sit too low so add a spacer if needed to get the static height where you like it. This info works on any leaf spring car from Gassers to ground scraping rods. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
OK so you are in Ohio, too far for me to drive out and look it over. But, DON'T give up on this truck. You have 99% of the needed parts , all you need to do is put it together correctly. Not a big deal. What maybe 4 to 6 days of work and you will have a cool truck that most would love to have. From the side shot it does need to come up a little and that is good, harder to get them low then raise them back up. If you have a Speedway catalog they have spring length information, just use that to zero in on how long of a spring to get. you don't have to buy from them and you don't need a complete new spring just the main leaf. Move the front spring perch up to get it off the asphalt if you have flat, then adjust the amount of leaves for ride quality. Better yet, just look through the many build threads here and you will see how to set up your front end. This is not hard to do. Just don't give up!
Damn the luck, well maybe just buy a balloon. I could probably fill it for the ride even on a bad day. All the lifted mud trucks ( live axle) that came through my place left with a toed out front end. Actually all my solid axle cars leave with a 1/8 toe out or there about. It is correct for anything that we drive as far as I am aware.
The scrub line problem could be fixed up front by sleeving and tapping the wishbones to accept these pivots. Since he is already looking into a new spring that shouldn't be a problem. May even raise the car some even though i personally like the height. In the back dropping the z some could be done but if it works there isnt any since in changing the frame. But i would think about ditching the wishbone for a four link maybe? Just some suggestions
I know this truck. It was built by a "shop" where I am from. From the photos you posted it looks like several improvements have already been made to it from what it was when they first put it on the street. This thing was very scary to be around....
After looking at the photos again I'm noticing the springs had Been changed at least once from when I last saw it. The rear used to have a very high arched spring and they heated each end and bent them facing up when the shackles went through. It was a very dangerous setup
A lot of things have definitely been changed to up the quality and safety. I think I've seen the photos of the high arch spring you're talking about. Interesting to say the least. I've actually found a local guy through a friend of a friend who's gonna help me redo the front / rear suspension. So here shortly this thing should be good to go. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Please bounce the ideas off of us first. No offense to the gentleman who is going to help you intended, but not all builders are created equal, and you have already seen.
Fair. I saw his scratch built race car. He definitely is a capable builder. Essentially though we're doing a custom 4 link setup in the rear, and reworking the existing panhard bar for better strength and geometry. He suggested chromoly ends, pulling the axles so we don't melt the seals, and then checking the rear end for straightness after all the grinding / welding. So quality and safety are at the top of his list. Good sign. Then we're going to go with coilovers in the rear. I know it's not traditional but it's going to make this truck safer and more stable. Plus the bed we're going to make will cover all of that up anyways. As for the front, we're raising the spring and getting a new main leaf built so we can get proper shackle angle under load. Then going to rebuild the rest of the pack. Finally we're doing to raise my headlights so we have more room to properly mount some shocks up front. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
