Back in August I thought I would upgrade the brakes in my 38 Chevy. Here's what I had Front--- rotors and calipers Rear-- 9 inch Ford drum brakes (70??Cougar) Master Cylinder Raybestos MC36440 (spec'd for 76 302 with manual brakes) 15/16 bore Master Cylinder is mounted under the floor using the stock pedal assembly to actuate the M/C Wilwood residual valves-- 2# in the front line , 10# in the rear line Wilwood proportioning valve The original setup was OK........but I would have preferred that it stopped a little quicker/better so I upgraded using a Speedway kit 11 Inch Brake Kit, Ford 5 x 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern I bolted it together and couldn't get a hard pedal. I could drive it BUT I didn't have brakes until the pedal was very near the floor. Before you ask....yes the bleeder was on top I've bleed it numerous times, using the two person technique with limited results. I called Speedway the tech guy thought that maybe I needed a bigger master cylinder so I took a shot at that. Here is the cylinder https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dual...-W-Internal-Stainless-Steel-Sleeve,50597.html Still the same problem. Note by this time I had read numerous threads on the HAMB of similar problems trying to find the "fix". One diagnostic suggestion was to terminate the line in various points to see where the issue might be. I first plugged the M/C right as it exited the cylinder. Full Pedal, Next I disconnected the hard line from one of the flex lines. I had more pedal I disconnect the other hard line from the flex line and had full pedal. Then I unbolted the banjo fitting on the bottom of the caliper using a bolt and two aluminum washers and although it did not form a perfect seal I still had pretty good pedal. I did the same on the other side and still had pretty good pedal even though it leaked a little. I contacted Speedway and visited with another tech guy and he didn't have any great suggestions and indicated that they really hadn't had any problems with those calipers, they had sold a lot of them. I asked the tech about the Metric calipers and he said theirs were not the fast takeup style. Note you can't get a feeler gauge between the pads and rotors. They don't retract. Ultimately they sent me a pair of new calipers. New Calipers didn't change the issue at all. I reinstalled the M/C cylinder with the org Speedway calipers and that brought me back to where I started. I have used my home made pressure bleeder but once I get to about 8-9 pounds pressure the top starts to leak so there was limited success....it didn't push the fluid out at all well Next was another style of pressure bleeder Phoenix 2104-B V5 Reverse Brake Bleeder System https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Phoenix-2104-B-V5-Reverse-Brake-Bleeder-System,87967.html another $50 that didn't work all that well. Very difficult to get a good seal on the hose to the bleeder. To add insult to injury I forgot to put the lid back on the M/C while trying to pressure bleed. It worked well, brake fluid did spray over the seat/steering wheel etc I had dropped the front of the car down in order get the calipers lower than the M/C thinking maybe that would help. It didn't I also took one caliper off and lowered it more and had the bleeder pointing straight up and lost pedal as we bleed it again. EDIT Forgot to indicate that I have blocked of the rear brakes with no change in pedal. I've installed a new 2# residual valve in the front line. I hope I've described accurately all that I have done. Maybe someone looking in from the outside may see something that I've missed.