so we used Lacquer paint...look what HAPPENED!

nice paint!! i'm sick of buffing new E.P.A. approved paints!!!!

 

No that's not the problem, the lead that was used in the pigments cancelled out the toluene.

I used to spray the insides of buses with laquer so it would try fast and do two colors real quick. No mask just a shop towel. And the torpedo heater to help the drying.

drain bamage you say?

 

WTF? Why did you go and paint it? It appears the body work isn't done yet, somebody forgot to chop the top!!!!! JK Terry O. I figured since nobody gave ya any shit yet so I would. Seriously, that is one sweet looking body. I know others have asked, but do you have chassis pics we can see? I also would like to know if your painter used a real gun or an HVLP!!!? Once again...Great job.

 

Soon Terry, soon. I saw the engine today and the color looked great!!!! See you in a few weeks.
gepetto

 

I love it! That's more beautiful than... I don't even know what!

 

You can search on here, there are some build pictures that we were posting. I dont know how to post a link, but you can probably search Circle City Hot Rods, or Gasser Vicky. Hope this helps.
Jimmy White

 

You still haven't said how you would get that DEPTH of finish,or dont ya know?

 

Whoa there boy, you got sheet sand paper up your nose??
Cant count either.

 

O K, sorry about my two previous posts, did that before I read the last couple of pages.Looks like he has already been put in his place.
Cheers to all.

 

Nice, nice, nice. Looks good in the pics and I'm sure you'll love surfacing it out vs 'thane clears. So you say PPG, did you use DCA468? That shit's like an old friend.


there were some questions posted and I thought I'd add a few answers. One was about using an HVLP. Yes it can be used but there's something to consider. The transfer efficiency of a true HVLP is superior to the old syphon guns. Even gravity guns can cause changes to what lacquer users may have been used to over the years. With a syphon feed usually 10+ coats were required on plain ol finishes, more on custom stuff, and today's new guns can get the film build in well under 10. The hook is that more time between coats are required and perhaps more solvent to help it vent.

That clear (DCA468) is still the PPG benchmark as far as depth and luster and hasn't changed in at least 30yrs. Nothing has changed with regard to the use as in film build, solvent temp, etc. If shot with an HVLP with a slower or 'hot' solvent you will indeed experience a slow dry time. Now would be the time to cut it open and let the UVs help suck out the solvents, purge them from the substrates. Even then you'll find it soft for weeks. On the up side it makes for some slick and easy sanding.

What some may not realize and some seasoned pros know, base coats can be lacquer based. DBC is a lacquer based color coat that can be converted to a DBU (requires a reactive reducer) by adding one of the PPG hardeners, DCX57 I think, and it helps prevent lifting on repairs. Most HOK basecoats are also lacquer based and can be coated with just about any clear.

As far as depth and true gloss it's my opinion that lacquer has yet to be matched. There's no finish that can show the surface as clear as our ol friend without a substantial amount of work throughout the process. Now long gone, but the original DELTRON system, DELGLO clear, was so damn close. It had the resistance to chemicals and bird shit that we never will find in lac finishes. Again that finish looks good. Ima keep an eye on the rest of it. Hope I helped with some of the questions.

 

I just shot my '48 Chev with black lacquer and noticed cracks where the body seam flexs. I have a steep angled driveway and it will continue as long as I park my car inside.
I have flames to do next and will still use the eBay Lacquer as it does what it's supposed to do. Then clear with PPG Concept Clear. Also it was mentioned about the Lacquer that's for sale in the parts stores.That stuff is over $20.oo a quart and it's thinned 50/50 so it isn't a good deal as a quart will do one/two coats on a big door or fender,,the pigment/coverage isn't great.
The best cost effective deal for me (so far) is to buy a gallon of the HotRod Black off eBay and clear coat it.
Here's where I asked about using a better clear to protect my work. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4458180#post4458180. I still haven't done the finish work as I chopped the '46 Dodge truck ,,but will shoot it soon and post.Thanks to ChopOlds and SkullHat.

 

Mint! Nuthin' like good ol' lacquer

Al in TN

 

just bought a half pint of Honduras maroon poly acrylic lacquer to touch up the 50........$42.00

 

Lacquer=dries/cures by evaporation of solvents.

The primers I use are lacquer based, used on the last four cars I painted with Acrylic Enamel color coat.

 

When we dropped it off at the shop it looked pretty good but after it was stripped we found some bondo. Not thick really, but quite a bit of it to my surprise. Hid a lot of little sins. So yeah no rust but some washboarding going on.


Terry

 

Looks great, Terry!! I really like that color.

 

Thanks Brian. Are you going to make it out?

Terry

 

Great color! Love the mix.

 

Nice job, It looks great. Dont listen to some of these guys, nothing looks like lacquer, there is a reason they dont paint million dollar duesenburgs with urethane, give it as much time as you can before you rub it out, it will last a long time

 

I really want to take a bit out of the paint

 

Just painted my mates daily driver with lacquer.
A deep red finish.
Looks great and went on easy.
Done in the driveway too.