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So I've never painted a car before...and this paint is why not?!?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Johnny1290, Feb 3, 2009.

  1. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834


    It's all of $71 plus ship for this stuff, and I was gonna prep the car myself anyway and just send it to 1 day paint and body...where my *guess* is that they use similar cheapo paint?!?

    Besides lack of any painting experience and no hvlp gun(HF can change that) any reason why i shouldn't? I could build a booth in the back if necessary or just rent one for $25 an hour, which I'm guesssing includes air (my compressor is just a 110 CH 4(hah!) hp with a 25 gal tank and I could probably hook up another 40 gal tank to that if need be.

    If I had to go slow due to the small compressor and just shoot one panel at a time (shoebox Ford) I don't think it'd kill me..I got more time than money.

    So before I go off half-cocked as usual and order this stuff...any thoughts?

    FWIW Ill need to do the jams and inside doors/window garnishes/dash too.

    Can I shoot this with a respirator from HD or is it necessary for something $$$ from a jobber store? Is this enough material?

    It's not going on a show car or anything, just my driver, and my bodywork surely won't be perfect.

    basically I'd like to save money and I've found I'm usually happier with the result when I do it myself. I could probably even have a buddy that paints signs show me how to use a gun.

    thanks all!

    Here's the paint:

    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]
    • [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]
    • High solids, high build finish
    • Extremely fast drying
    • Sprayable using conventional or HVLP equipment
    • Abrasion and impact resistant
    • Long term durability
    • Sharp automotive gloss appearance
    • High distinctness of image (DOI)
    • Excellent color retention and fade resistance
    • Outstanding resistance to gasoline and diesel fuel
    • Excellent flexibility and adhesion over primed surfaces
    • 25 premium colors available with new colors being added all the time
    • Can be applied as a single stahe acrylic enamel or top coated with our acrylic enamel clear or Urethane clear for base coat clear two stage results
    • Complete one stage kit with reducer and hardener includes everything for a one stage finish. [/SIZE][/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]PaintForCars Starfire High Solids Acrylic Enamel , is a single-stage, fast drying, easy to spray durable finishing system specifically developed for the automotive market , offering OEM durability and gloss in a single stage finish. PaintForCars Starfire offers refinishers a chemical and solvent resistant paint film that resists chipping, cracking, fading and excellent adhesion over virtually any original equipment (OEM) type finish with the proper preparation . Starfire will give any vehicle a “right off the production line” look. PaintForCars Starfire acrylic enamels are available in 25 premium packaged colors. Comprised of 50% higher volume solids than conventional acrylic enamels, PaintForCars Starfire offers outstanding hiding properties and typically covers up to 35% more than other finishes and is lead free. When mixed with 1 pint per gallon of Starfire acrylic enamel Urethane hardener its gloss, gloss retention, durability and long term are dramatically increased.. For overall refinishing, Starfire Acrylic Enamel Series provides versatility and durability at prices that are extremely competitive in today's auto paint markets.

    This kit includes one gallon of Starfire acrylic enamel paint, one Pint of our Premium quality Wet look hardener and one quart of compatible medium speed acrylic reducer. Mixing ratios on this kit is 8 parts paint, 2 parts reducer and 1 part hardener. Kit also includes disposable dust mask, three mixing sticks and three high quality mixing strainers.

    PaintForCars Starfire High Solids Acrylic Enamel can be applied as a single stage or can be top coated with a clear coat for higher durability and gloss.[/SIZE][/FONT]
  2. Kustom7777
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,183

    from Austin, TX

    i say go for it,,,,thats how you learn,,,,,
    if i dont pick a crazy pearl or candy for my car,,im considering painting mine myself.....there are a LOT of great painters here, so im sure any questions you may have will be answered,,,,you can read all you want,,but there's no substitute for experience,,,,PLUS the satisfaction and pride of being able to say you did it youself.......
  3. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,300

    from Midwest

    If you pick a metallic, you run a lot of risk for painting individual panels at a time. They will NOT match and will likely be tiger striped as well if you are a beginner as you state. In other words, the metallic will be streaked.

    I would highly suggest a solid color for a beginner.

    I would also suggest a lighter color like white, cream, yellow, orange, etc. A dark reflective color like black, dark blue, etc will amplify any mistakes you make.

    Good luck!
  4. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834


    Yeah kustom I couldn't have said it better myself...there's no substitute for experience...i've always wanted to paint a car, and if it sucks I'm out some labor and a few hundred bucks...I've wasted more money on stupider things

  5. brandon
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,355


    that color shown definently will be a learning experience....:D i remember painting my first metallic job.....sprayed a buddys jeep in a "custom mix" aqua/teal pearl metallic.....same deal , small compressor , , that job took all night to ....finished under a headlight glow....threw on the purple faded to white scallops the next day....that thing was bitchin....even said so on the side of the hood...:D you might look into your local of the local ones around here does some pretty decent jobs for dirt cheap ...... brandon:D
  6. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834


    Thanks redline toys....I can live with my wavy bodywork showing but not a light color...yeah the metallic is not my first choice for something i'll shoot myself ...I like the way it looks, just not the tiger stripe look ! :D
  7. grapp
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 457


    Redline is right...panel painting with metallics will be a disaster... hell 25 years ago I panel painted a 63 impala convert in white and you could tell the colors were off...I'd start with the jambs and garnish mlds first and go from there...go to a jobber and get a really good me.... new paint is bad's not like daddy's laquer....Good luck and post pics....and heck if you can rent a booth for 25 bucks...with air and lights that will beat any thing you could build for 25 bucks....
  8. If I had never sprayed paint before i would go with a solid color,,,what about the prep work?primer?

    Read a lot before you spray,,,HRP
  9. Kustom7777
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,183

    from Austin, TX

    hey,,,why live with wavy bodywork?
    buy yourself a set of those LONG spongy sanding boards with the steel rods in them,,(forget what they are called,,but im sure someone will know),,they are GREAT and when using them, its almost impossible to have wavy bodywork,,not a huge amount of $$,,,,i say why live with something when you can make it better.......
  10. johnny i built a quick paint booth with some scrap 2x4's some poly plastic walls a few box fans some air conditioning filters and a few dozen rolls of masking tape to paint my driver and it worked fine.... just keep the floor wet and clean the best you can.... youd be suprised
  11. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834


    Thanks guys I just realized the rental booth place is in antelope valley which is a real good long drive for someone to make in a car they just painted, here's teh ad off craigslist
    <style type="text/css"> BODY,.aolmailheader {font-size:10pt; color:black; font-family:Arial;} a.aolmailheader:link {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal;} a.aolmailheader:visited {color:magenta; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal;} a.aolmailheader:active {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal;} a.aolmailheader:hover {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal;} </style>IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO PAINT I HAVE A SPRAYBOOTH I RENT FOR 25 PER HOUR
    949 903 5973

    Yeah I'll prep and prime it I can't afford to pay 1 day to do it and I'll be happier if I do it myself...

    I might could just drop off the car with the paint at Scheibs and see what they do with it

    They did a couple o/t cars for me before that weren't too bad when I did the sanding/priming myself...well their bodywiork was bettern mine though LOL
  12. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,678


    First, if you plan on doing it yourself get the best filtration mask you can find. If the catalyzed paint gets into you lungs it will plug up the capillaries and you can die. Remember dust masks are for dust not automotive paint and especially not paint with a hardener. I've painted cars since the '60s and metallics are the most difficult for the inexperienced. Too wet and the metallic spreads, too dry and you'll probably have to top coat with a clear. Prep your car, do the best you can with the body work, practice with your spray gun priming, and take your car and paint to a shop for color spraying. Good luck, The FOGGER
  13. My dad was a painter, and he died at 56 from emphesema (SP?).
    We all knew where it came from. Do yourself a favor. spend the money you will save doing your own paint on a top of the line resperator, cuz I'll guarantee you will paint more than one car.......Thanks, Mike
  14. Chevy55
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 409

    from Nebraska

    Hey, Dont worry about an hvlp gun. I bought a sharp hvlp to try and replace my old suction gun and I just cant seem to tune the thing in. I am much better at spraying with the old gun. Could be that I have the wrong tip or something. I am willing to use more paint with the suction gun to get it right the first time. Just my thoughts. Good luck with your painting project!
  15. Kustom7777
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,183

    from Austin, TX

    yeah,,,what he said,,,my dad owned a gas station back in the 60s,,,he did it all,,including painting cars (without a mask),,he died of lymph node cancer,,im convinced it was because painting with no mask,,,,,,,,,,,
  16. Johnny1290: Let me pass on my $0.02 worth of advice....With more time than money,use your time in prepping the car..and don't get in a hurry !! Believe me ,it's easy to overlook something that will come back to bite you..Get a second opinion on your prep, a second set of eyes will spot things you missed....Prep is the key...Painting over poor prep work is just a waste of time,paint(even cheap paint) & money...

  17. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 6,628

    A Boner

    Anyone who paints cars had to paint car #1. Go for it. Read all you can and ask for lots of advice. If it turns out ok as it probably will, it will be easy to enjoy your car, after all YOU painted it. Also you won't have lots of $ invested in the paint it takes out the worry of a pricey paint job. Drive the wheels off of it and give it some patina!
  18. Having never painted a whole car any color other than RustOleum Satin Black (I know, I know but it was 1998 so it don't count now...:p), I say give it a go. If some time and a few hundred bucks are worth the risk to you then why not try? Be careful on the prep, wear a GOOD respirator, and post some pics of your triumph when you're done.

    BTW, if that green is the color it's a good looking color. :D
  19. If you've already placed the order... Call him up and make sure he got the order and ask him when he plans on shipping it... I tried to order from him once, and ended up having to get hold of him through ebay because he rarely picks up the phone.

    If you haven't, and you still REALLY want that paint, do it through ebay so you have some small hope of recourse.
  20. 972toolmaker
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 216

    from Garland Tx

    Best advice I ever got was chase the over spray and to let the paint set 20 min. between coats.Quick light mist for adhesion ,2 coverage coat,3 gloss coat dont rush let the paint flow out. GO FOR IT.
  21. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,188

    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I say go for it, like already mentioned, get the body smooth.
    FWIW, One-day will paint a car for around $250 if you ask for the wholesale price. You get the better job, with only 90 day warranty instead of 3 years.
  22. bikersteve
    Joined: Oct 19, 2008
    Posts: 155


    Go for has already been said, take the time to get the prep right, it's worth the effort, buy a long cheater stick and smooth out your waves, prime the piss out of it, final sand with 400 and give yourself time between coats, lots of light coats will give a much better finish than a few heavy ones with curtains all over the place, you can always wet sand and buff after it cures.
    BUT!!!!! spend the money on a good resterator, 3M sells a disposable unit ( that should run about $ health insurance

    Just my $.02
  23. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,957

    from Central NJ

    Go for it! But don't use a single stage metallic. Being that it is your first job, you will also be learning to color sand and buff, something that doesn't work so well with SS metallics. I also don't reccomend the panel by panel thing. Figure on your cost calculations being double when all is said and done, just something I've learned over the years...
  24. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571


    And be prepared to do something twice, it will happen. Just don't let it eat at you. Good luck.
  25. ottoman562
    Joined: Jan 17, 2009
    Posts: 10


    I just painted my 66 Chevy Pick up. First ever other than little model cars I used to build and paint with an airbrush system...I did it in a $200 vinyl shed I bought at Sams Wholesale Club. Shed took a couple of hours to set up., I hosed the floor right before spraying primer or paint and used 2 box fans with disposable home HVAC filters. OK., maybe it's not a show quality paint job but I don't have orange peel, fisheyes or tigerstripes. BTW I used the HotRod Flatz Flat Black paint but that was just because I wanted flat black and that seemed to be tyhe best single stage option I found......I have a 33 gal 150 psi 5.4 CFM (@ 40PSI) Craftsman Compressor. I painted each panel separately since the truck is fully dismantled except the cab is still on the frame. Compressor needed a breather every few minutes when I sprayed the cab and the hood those being the largest surfaces. I have a Devillbis Finishline HVLP Gun I spend 129 bucks on which comes with a regulator at the gun which I found out is essential if you don't have a big enough compressor. The gun requires around 7 CFM at 23 PSI and I was reaching just that for about 3-4 mins continous spray time. When you keep an eye on the gauge it keeps you from getting carried away and keep spraying with lower volume than you need. Of course after a while you develop a feel for it and realize you're losing volume /pressure and stop.... Also its amazing how much paint you can apply in 3-4 minutes....

    Sorry for being long winded here but just having done what you are thinking of doing got me worked up...My nickel's worth:
    Pick the right gun, keep your environment as clean as possible and be PATIENT while spraying., many light coats seem to work much better than getting impatient and spraying a whole lot to cover it fast....There are a lot of information on the web about guns and nozzles and gun setups. One last thing., ALWAYS spray a test panel first..It was painful to strip the hood on my truck after countless hours of primer and block sanding!!! Having followed the instruction on mixing the paint, reducer and hardener etc. doesn't work worth a flip when your gun is not setup right and you go to town and spray the whole hood!!! I still feel like a dumbass....
  26. Ice man
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 984

    Ice man

    An old trick, hang a chain on the axle to the ground. It will take care of statick electricity. And the resprator filters are only good for 40hrs. So keep them in a plastic zip lockbag, cause the charcoal is working once they are open to air. If you can smell paint with the filter on, its shot. Get a new ones. The fumes are LEATHEL. Ice man
  27. twofosho
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 1,153


    Yeah, that green metallic you picked will be terrific for showing how lousy you really are, how much you don't know, and totally discouraging you from ever attempting to paint a car again.

    If you really want to learn to paint;
    1. Get as much product and technique info in your head as you can before you actually pick up the gun.
    2. To start getting your actual spraying chops down, go down to the local home improvement store, grab some small cans of solid colour Rustoleum or similar enamel, a gallon of compatible paint thinner. Beg, borrow, or garage sale a siphon feed paint gun with (and this is mandatory) both fluid and fan controls (mine are old MBCs with #30 tips).
    3. Mix a little thinner into what ever colour paint you want to start out with (a viscosity cup at this point will just confuse you), and fill the paint gun's cup about a third full to start.
    4. Put on a mask (and googles if you're sloppy), and start spraying. Just not a car! Spray the shop walls, an old fridge, filing cabinets, tool boxes, etc., anything with a relatively smooth surface. Concentrate on technique and getting a feel for the gun. Play with the fluid and fan controls. PRACTICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE! Just when you think you've got it down, practice some more. Only after you can lay down passes good enough to paint an entire object with even coverage, little or no orange peel, and no runs would I attempt to try shooting primer for prep work, much less the colour coats with expensive paint of any type (lacquer, enamel, acrylic, etc.) on a car.

    Just remember, 95% of a successful paint job is the prep work, and flawless prep work will make even a cheap colour coat look like a million bucks. If you learn to do flawless prep work first, the rest will come easy.

    More than a few times on a car I wasn't going to paint myself, I would painstakingly prep it and mask it up. I then would take it to Earl Schieb. I slipped the painter something extra to slide it to the head of the line and squirt it, sometimes with their paint, sometimes with mine. No one would believe that's where the car was painted.

    Good luck, we all had to start sometime.
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2009
  28. CaseyB
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 46


    wet the floor down. i spray a lot of side jobs in my shop behind my house with only box fans in the windows. wetting the floor down helps the overspray stay down and dust from circulating into your wet paint.
  29. Midnight 50
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 568

    Midnight 50

    As long as you don't run the paint, everything else is in the prep.
  30. 2ratty4u
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 61

    from dallas, tx

    I'd definately go for it. Like said before, the prep is gonna be the true test to your outcome. Dont worry as much about the quality and price of the paint, but take your time doing the prep work. My dad had a pickup that he showed for years and was really good friends with an owner of a studebaker pickup that was painted on a dirt floor garage by an ammateur, and won best of show many times. Plus, you're like the rest of us, you'd rather just do it! So, do it!

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