The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by justadream, Nov 27, 2016.
Ooops, thanks Rm, thats what I was going to put, lol.
They should be under the subframe rails.
As for metal thickness, after about 1/8" all you are adding is weight.
My '60 is plated up with 1/8".
How do I put them under the sub frame if im cutting the old one out and making a new full frame with the 2x3 box tubing, unless your talking about after I plate the front then put them up in the front? Not trying to be a smartass as I appreciate all the help but not really sure where you are talking about, thats all.
2x3 dimension is fine but 1/4 wall is way to heavy.
There's only so much we can do- you gotta do some of it lol.
It's up to you to go look at the links we find and post for you. Study them. Ponder them. Read them. There's much info there besides pictures and the pics have stuff that you won't notice on the first go around.
Like this, yo.
As for the rails that run to the back, you cut the top out of the rectangular tubing, and slip it under and around the existing rails. Rosette weld it to the existing rails.
Look at Scott's Strange Bird thread. Google all you can about it. Call him or email him if you have to.
The pictures that I took of the front suspension that I posted should provide a wealth of information.
I already posted what suspension to use in the front, and how to get the rear set up.
If you want, you can bring the car down to my brother's place in Connecticut, and I will fly out and build it for you, but that will cost you.
They will if you spread the load out. Get a couple of 2x4s, rip a slot in them lengthwise to allow the inner/outer rocker flange to fit into it, then sit the car down on those. Make sure it's stable set up like that....
So long as the 2" x 4" are of good quality. The crap that you can buy at HD will likely split on that rip.
Alright, so a quick question about the shock towers that I cut out. Are they worth any money? I cut them out with the flange still intact but was thinking that if they are not really worth anything, that I would cut the flange off and spot weld it back onto the inner fender well so it will have more support so it will not flex much. I have read the " Strange Bird " build and saw what he did but I think the law here in Vermont is that a vehicle HAS TO HAVE an inner fender well so I will not be able to cut it out like he did, I wish I could because I like it alot better.
Look at eBay, check completed listings to find what they actually sell for
Here's what this guy is asking -
He also has the passenger side.
There are rusty ones for 30.00
Here's another build thread with some pretty good info in it:
Went to pick up the 1/8, yes I got it right this time, flate stock needed for the frame. I also picked up a can of SEMS weld through primer and it didnt even come with any vasaline, the parts guy said he ran out when he sold the last can from before, lol. I could see maybe $20 for it but $30, holy shit, it better be good stuff for that price. My daughter is haveing a bunch of teen age friends over today for a sleepover sweet 16 party, guess I will be out in the garage late tonight, haha. Im kinda growing on the looks of the way the stock frame is built so my plan is to weld the plates up so the lips are still there, so im going to Rosette weld them on and maybe just stitch weld the edges in, will see how it goes I guess but will keep an update on it.
Do not attempt to run long weld beads. You will build to much eat, and burn through. Weld in segments.
Remember, this entire car is spot-welded together. It has almost no weld beads. You do not need to run full beads. Skip welding is fine. Just seam seal the whole deal before you paint and undercoat, to prevent water intrusion.
Strange Bird is not a "street car", although it is periodically on the street. You will be happier with inner fenders on the street. Otherwise your engine and engine compartment will be constantly covered in crap.
I was thinking of just welding about an inch then maybe skip about three or four, most likely the four inch, but thanks, your right.
So I have been thinking about the powerplant as im in the process of building this front end. The car came with a seized up 289 that I cant even turn over by hand that I was going to tear apart and rebuild, if its rebuildable but I also have a 30ft offshore style boat sitting in the back yard with twin ford 460 motors and one is complete JUNK as I pulled out the front spark plug and out came some water, the other one which I believe to have the proper rotation being clockwise, right? That one I CAN turn over by hand, and was thinking about pulling that one out and have it rebuilt to vehicle specs such as cam and other crap. I know it can be done and if a rebuild kit for the 460 is about the same for a 289, or even a little more, say $1000, wouldnt it make more sence to get that one rebuilt......... and alot more FUN to drive. What are all your thoughts on this as I continue on the front end and frame?
So, any thoughts?
The 460 wouldn't really fit in with the style of car you're building, in my opinion. I'd build the 289 or better yet an FE of some type. Lots of parts around for both. A 460 would belong in it if you were doing a pro street type car not a nose up gasser style. My 2 cents.
When I was thinking about building a car like this I was going to build with what would have been available to a guy in the early 60's when the car would have been built. A driveline from a boneyard out of a Galaxie would have been something a guy would have used.
Gasser-style or to a a greater extent "street freak" cars have an elevated center-of-gravity.
About the last thing you want to do is put in one of the heavier engines out there.
Sell off the good 460, with the bad one, included free, for parts. Use that money to build a 302, or get a late 302, used, and dress it to look like an early 289. You can grab one from a Mustang, with the T5 transmission that goes with it. Cable clutch conversions can be had to hook it up to the stock clutch pedal (if you have one, if not they can be had). Mechanical linkage is possible, too, for not too much work, if you already have a manual transmission.
As far as the height of the car, my plan is to get it to sit like the Strange Bird, not to high in the front, and also have it sit on the level side, just a little high and nothing to rad. Your right about the weight difference as I would like to keep it light as possible so I will probably sell off the 460 like you mentioned gimpy and just go with a nice stout 289 rebuild. Are their any old parts out there to make it look like an old motor like finned timing cover or whatever else, I kinda like the older looking non polished stuff. Now I have ANOTHER question but this one is back to the front section of the frame and plating it with the 1/8 but blending in the 10in wide with the 4in on the inside and outside of the frame. In the pic shows what my plan is but was wondering if it will work or not. As far as the spot welds go, they will be 1 1/2 inches apart and some offset down the middle. Im by no means a metal fabricator so I just want to make sure this will work before I go ahead and weld it in and be worth a shit. Please let me know what your thoughts are or if you have a better way to do this. Sorry for asking so many questions but I just want it to be safe and strong. Thanks for any input.
Your splice will be fine, the tooth notch doesn't help or hurt.
What's wrong with just welding tube on the bottom?
You know, I never thought of that but I did see it on the strange bird but only AFTER I had purchased all the flat stock. I guess I like to do things the hard way,,I always have, lol
The flat stock on the outside, too, is not a bad idea. It is not exactly thick there.
I got the outside pieces cut out for the frame, just need to clean them up, weld them together and spot weld it on then on to the next.
Both pieces welded together and cleaned up. Im far from being a welder or metal fabricator but I must say this came out pretty damn good, I surprised even myself, lol. Drilling the holes for the spot welds tomorrow then will weld it in this weekend.
Well, a 460 can make a lot of power relatively cheaply.... .... but you'd really need to do a first-rate job on all the frame upgrades AND do more than what's needed for just a small block swap... so...
Good advice, but don't toss out that 289 just yet. Just because it won't spin doesn't mean it can't be rebuilt, and SBF stroker kits will fit a 289 too. A 331" kit is basically just SBF version of a 327, get a pair of cast-iron GT40P heads and you could have a fairly cheap powerhouse that won't overwhelm the car.
I'd also take a peek at those 460s before you off them. Ford sometimes used if not hi-po at least HD parts on the marine motors but many engines got 'better' heads than what was used on the smog vehicle motors. There might be a few extra bucks there...
Thanks steve. I didnt know that about the marine engines, its been a long while since I have looked at them but im going to where the boat is tomorrow anyways so I will take another look at them and also post a few pics so you guys can see what I have. I might just rebuild the 289 and I also didnt know that about those rebuild kits either, I have always been a chevy guy buy im going in for the change on this one.
Adding GT40 or GT40P heads to that 289 will get you modern ports, bigger valves, and hardened seats for unleaded gas. They can be had for a song.
Got all the holes drilled in the plating for the outside of the frame tonight. I know its not really a big deal but im pretty happy about the way it came out, even know its just holes, lol. The frame is just like new with absolutely NO ROT AT ALL and looks like new. Anyway, here are a couple of pics from tonight.
Ok, I know I got outta hand with every little step pics but just a few more and I will stop. Now im not a welder by FAR but was pretty proud of my welds on the outside plate.
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