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Projects So here we go on the 60 Comet project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by justadream, Nov 27, 2016.

  1. Saving both parts is hard. It's Doable but nothing easy or quick about it.
    I'd cut the inner fender since you'll be working that over anyway and save the strut bump with the inner flange on it. Take it apart with a drill press when there's nothing to do :p haha
    Or sell them and let the next guy do it
     
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  2. justadream
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 147

    justadream
    Member
    from Vermont

    My drill press is to nice to do that, hahaha, I will let the next guy deal with it.
     
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  3. justadream
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 147

    justadream
    Member
    from Vermont

    So I did some cleaning up on the front frame section as I mentioned in another post I made about front end help. I got to the inside of the car today and decided to cut out the front passenger side floorboard, as it had a couple small holes in it anyways, and was able to get a good look at the rest of the "So called" frame under their. HAHAHA, WHAT A JOKE, im surprised that thing could even hold up a a tire and wheel. I ah planned on welding some C channel onto it with some kind of braces but after seeing it, HELL, guess im going to try and go all out and build a complete frame front to rear and Z it as well.if ANYBODY has a link or some great detailed pics with measurments and would like to share, PLEASE feel free and jump right in as I guess im going to be in for some one hell of some fabricating frame work and could use ALL the help I can get. Here are some pics of what I did and saw today. Thanks ahead of time for ANY and ALL help for doing a frame build. 20170102_124408.jpg 20170102_124435.jpg 20170102_124531.jpg 20170102_124556.jpg 20170102_124635.jpg
     
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  4. Yep, that's what Gimpy and I were trying to tell you; FLIMSY! In fact, that's not even as beefy as the later six cylinder cars, but in '60 the only available motor was the 144 so I guess Ford figured that's all that was needed.

    There is a thread on here somewhere (and I looked for it but didn't find it) of a gasser conversion to a '62 or 63 Falcon 2-dr post car. Straight axle and a tunnel-rammed BBC no less. He basically did what you need to do...
     
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  5. I found 1 for him- strange bird- blown 401 nailhead falcon
    In the other thread.
     
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  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,870

    squirrel
    Member

    Interesting, the Chevy II front frame rail (under the floor) is about twice as tall as the Ford.

    Yeah, it looks rather weak.
     
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  7. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Now you see what we mean. You can pull this off. It has been done before.

    Once all of the bracing and reinforcement is in, I would take these shortcuts:

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gasse...e-and-Brake-Kits-56-1-2-Hub-to-Hub,35258.html

    Then get a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle, with 3.73:1 gears (VERY common in yards), but a little too wide, intentionally. Get some spring perches, and mount it up under the rear springs. Cut your rear wheel arches. with about 3" of clearance, to fit some 30" cheater slicks, leaving a little tread sticking out, like this:

    Gasser (note, this is a 1960):
    [​IMG]

    Try to get the chassis set up level. Remember, if you want to build an actual gasser, NHRA rules called for the chassis to be LEVEL. The nose-high look came from the 1970's "street freak" fad.

    Street freak:
    [​IMG]

    The speedway kit at 56-1/2 is the stock front track width, give-or-take a hair. The Explorer axle is 3-1/2 (or 1-3/4" per side) wider. it gives a really nice stance.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2017
  8. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,973

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Take your time ,do the research and you will get a kick ass result.
     
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  9. You want to build a Half assed pseudo gasser, and that's part of the problem.
    Looking for half assed pseudo solutions and in the end you'll have a car that no purist would want, no racer could use and no cruiser capable of prolonged family enjoyment.

    I'm not saying this is the best or only way but it's a damn simple And Just for pondering to get your head in the right direction .
    Then when the tubes go back they pass thru the floor of the car . Careful cuts and you can weld it up. Back half it if you want but that's a different era so just ignore that. Lol

    image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
     
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  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is Scott Birdsall's car. Funny, I am wearing a shirt from his shop as I type this.

    He's just up North of me. A super-cool guy, and a hella talented and brilliant engineer.

    I got to see the first few not-yet-complete public appearances of Strange Bird:

    Strange Bird, baby pictures:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You won't go wrong taking your lead from Scott. I am an engineer, he is an engineer, and I can say that he is a damned good one.

    Although I cannot necessarily recommend a blown 401 Nailhead, running on alcohol. It tends to eat transmissions.
     
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  11. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No genre mixing. No back-halfing. The "pro street" fad is dead.
     
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  12. But if it's on the track every weekend not at the shopping mall,,, what then?
     
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  13. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Dead, I said:
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. The one I was thinking of was a bit of a backyard job, maybe more in tune with the OPs skills/tools (not saying it was a hash job, the finished car was very nice). Had more of the nitty-gritty construction detail too... The builder was out of Portland, Oregon but I can't remember his HAMB name....
     
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  15. Chuckles garage http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/members/chuckles-garage.15739/
    Built strange bird, from CA
     
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  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Attached Files:

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  17. Put your purse down and hit it !!!!

    Found at Every race chassis shop, every mail order house and at the track, Back halfs are not dead. Pro street was folks wannabeing for looks is dead.
     
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  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Like fake gassers?

    My Falcon is set up for road-race and autocross, but that is because it sees actual track time.
     
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  19. Exactly!!!
    Fake gassers Should be dead, but they are alive and well.
    Then there's the crowd Of masses that wouldn't know a gasser if it bit them on the ass, even a fake gasser. I had a guy over here wanting to build a "high boy coup" describing a high boy, showing me pictures of high boys and insisting he wanted a gasser, that they were gassers, and nothing I could say worked to convince him otherwise.
     
  20. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The OP lives within driving distance of a drag strip, too.
     
  21. Ray C's son
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 410

    Ray C's son
    Member

    His name is 1971BB427, out in Portland. He did the same frame work as The Strange Bird. Here's his build thread:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-first-test-drive.810807/

    Kevin
     
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  22. Yep, that's the one.... Thanks!
     
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  23. Ray C's son
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 410

    Ray C's son
    Member

    Your welcome! It's a cool build, even if it has a off brand motor in it :) I'm an FE guy.

    Kevin
     
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  24. I happen to like big tires neatly tucked under stock-but-lengthened rear fender openings regardless of what turns them...

    Steve
     
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  25. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sure, but there is about enough wheel house for a P205/60-15 in there with a stock width axle. Use an 8.8 from an early Ranger pickup, and you will be down to a P195. You cannot go much deeper, even if you tub it to the subframe rails. The only other way is out, or back-half it.
     
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  26. justadream
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 147

    justadream
    Member
    from Vermont

    Thanks again everyone. I LOVE the stance of the High Life and The Bird. Thats how I would like to get this one set up. As you know, this car doesnt have any torque boxes so im going to build them in. Starting up front and working my way back, im going to plate off the front of the frame then start, haha, building the frame with 2x3 1/4 in thick, or would that be to small? I dont think it will be but I have also never done anything like this either so thats why im asking. Then try to build in some torque boxes then braces from the frame to the rockers. My next question is refering to the pic. The hump in the floor that goes from side to side to the rockers, there is nothing under it so should I weld in a brace with the 2x3 in there, from the frame to the rockers for extra support or would I need it if I build the torque box? Guess I better get the jack stands moved out to the rockers and get the car level before I start cutting anymore. Please feel free to chime in on these question please and add any other info im not thinking about or overlooking. Thanks for the help guys. photostudio_1483455579663.jpg
     
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  27. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,647

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not sure the rockers are going to like supporting the car.
     
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  28. I'm just enjoying the exchanges between gimpyshotrods and 31Vicky with a hemi.:D........Now back to regular programming. ;)
     
  29. justadream
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 147

    justadream
    Member
    from Vermont

    Your right gimpy, should I just put them under the front corners of the frame then? I just wasnt sure if I should put them under the frame since I will be working on it, thats all.
     
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  30. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,593

    RmK57
    Member

    1/4" would be a bit overkill for thickness for frame rails. 1/8" or even slightly thinner when it's all tied together with a cage would be plenty strong enough.
     
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